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Old 01-27-2012, 09:21 PM   #5581
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Thanks all.

Centering servo and place a horn 90deg were done and have been like that since I built TC6.

Steering has been adjusted by EPA and Trim and I have been happy
But since I am so OTAKU and start to look for some inperfections and am confused.

When steering angle are equal right to left, should servo horn travel right to left be equal as well?

When X=Y, should n=m like n:m=x:y ? otherwise steering angle is equal right to left but travel time could differ right to left in steering.

I probably should shut and practice but am quite busy n hard to find time to hit track so I have more time poking my car on desk

Thanks for all your help!
Think of it like this.... If your front tires are aimed straight ahead. The two turnbuckles that go to the casters should be the same length. Your servo horn should be perpendicular to the ground (pointing straight up). The linkange from the servo horn should be parallel to the center line of the car.
And the servo saver should be parallel to the ground and At a right angle to the center line of th car. Please post a picture of your steering!!!
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Old 01-28-2012, 01:48 AM   #5582
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I tried to equalize servo horn travel R=L : Steering R=L....
Not quite yet but closer.

EPA = 61%L 82%R

Horn was 90 deg straight up and both tie rods were and are same length.
EPA was almost 100% to 65% right to left or vise versa.

Here are current pics. So... servo travel R/L should much right to left or closer is better right?

My servo horn tie rod never be straight parallel to center of the car. Also there is always angled in side view....
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Old 01-28-2012, 04:12 AM   #5583
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You should shorten your rod that connects the servo horn to the servo saver. It just looks too long.
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:16 AM   #5584
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You should shorten your rod that connects the servo horn to the servo saver. It just looks too long.
Ditto this... mine is much shorter than that.
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:52 AM   #5585
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Look at page 9 of your instruction manual. Your turnbuckle should be in almost all the way in the eyelets. Get your calipers and measure the distance between the eyelets. If you dont have calipers, use the manual and put your turnbuckle against it on the manual. This will get you close enough.
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:05 AM   #5586
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Another thing...your servo horn is NOT going to be perpendicular to the chassis. Its going to lean a little towards the rear of the car.

The best way to get it centered is to attach the servo horn and turnbuckle to your servo saver. Center the wheels (point them straight). Hook up your radio. Turn it on and center the servo. Then attach your servo horn to the servo with the wheels pointing straight.

Im surprised your turnbuckle isnt rubbing up against the bottom of the top deck?
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Old 01-28-2012, 04:15 PM   #5587
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Thanks for all inputs. They all helped me a lot.
Here is an update(Pic)

Horn 90 deg
Tie rod parallel to center of car(Almost, not dead parallel I goes)
Tie rod is not parallel to chasis(Ground)

EPA for both RnL almost equal so servo travel RnL equalized too.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:14 PM   #5588
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Looking good, 91420l.

Today I went to the track and I "only" broke one outdrive of the spool (which I didnt have in spare ), but switched to the one of the TC6. Car was great, really great in the corners and is really 'crash' proof
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:19 PM   #5589
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:18 PM   #5590
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I think about few carbon parts to build better car

Just allow move outside lipo for L/R balance.
Just 1-2mm more then standard.

What do you think?

I do not want put lead, just 2mm outisde and problem is solved

Team Associated TC6 Thread-zzzz-01.jpg
Team Associated TC6 Thread-zzzz-02.jpg

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Old 01-29-2012, 07:38 PM   #5591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
I think about few carbon parts to build better car

Just allow move outside lipo for L/R balance.
Just 1-2mm more then standard.

What do you think?

I do not want put lead, just 2mm outisde and problem is solved

Attachment 870202
Attachment 870203

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Looks good! You are going have to make inner battery stops to allow for the battery moving out. I made some hack style c-cups to try this out and it does work.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:09 PM   #5592
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which piston and bladder do you guys use/recommend?
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:28 AM   #5593
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which piston and bladder do you guys use/recommend?
No question in my mind... Reflex Racing

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6A...15mm_p_11.html

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6A...ers_p_528.html
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:13 AM   #5594
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Amen to that. I've rebuilt my shocks ONCE since last September...... and that was only to change oils!

45 front/35 rear with the Reflex parts seems to be my favorite combination.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:32 AM   #5595
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Amen to that. I've rebuilt my shocks ONCE since last September...... and that was only to change oils!

45 front/35 rear with the Reflex parts seems to be my favorite combination.
Reflex everything .
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