waswadener

iTrader: (72)

We call those boogers. Good news, these ones you're supposed to pick! I know, I crack myself up.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I've been assembling my new 6.1 while on vacation (assembling with the included tools... talk about a PITA). I'm looking for some tips to resolve some mostly minor issues.

Slop in the arms: There's a lot of slop in the arms at the inner hinge pin. It seems like the slop comes from both the arm vs. hinge pin as well as the hinge pin vs pivot blocks. I didn't do any reaming at all on the arms. I haven't measured the hinge pins (don't have my caliper with me) but I suspect the pins are probably under-sized, since a few people have mentioned encountering that. How prevalent is that issue with new kits? How prevalent is it with replacement parts? What is the correct diameter for the hinge pins? 3mm? 1/8"?

Slop in the C-Hubs: I've got a lot of slop at the C-Hub, way more than Maybell's 6.1 did when new (his had basically none). It's more like the slop in my Mi4LP after a few weekends of board tapping. It seems like some of the slop might be between the pin and the arm, and some is between the hub and the pin. I haven't glued the inserts, and they are pushed all the way. I'm not sure if the earlier suggestion of leaving them slightly out and then installing them to take up slop will actually work. Is there a trick to removing the inserts once they've been pushed all the way in?

Slop in 2 of the 4 swaybar endlinks where they connect to the wishbone: Two were nice and snug, but two of them have some noticeable slop, probably ~.2mm. I think it's from either the ball or the cap, because I swapped the links around, and one of them was a bit better in a different spot, and the other one stayed sloppy in its new location. What's the correct diameter for the balls (so I can check mine)? If I want to get rid of the slop, what's the best approach? Sand the arm? Sand the cap? Heat the cap and bend it a bit? Try new balls?

Tight / chunky feeling in the gear diff: I didn't assemble the gear diff with any lube (didn't want to do anything messy until I get my car home), but it feels pretty tight and chunky, especially in one part of the rotation. The instructions in the kit didn't say to do any sanding of gears or anything, so I didn't. Should I run it in first before doing anything to free it up? Is there a specific orientation of the gear halves that needs to be observed? The instructions didn't mention anything, and I didn't notice any distinctive markings on the case halves.

Gap between pulley and side fence on gear diff: It looks a little bit like the pics that have been posted of the mould defect, but not quite so pronounced. There's just slight deflection of the fence around each of the 4 screws. I didn't think I screwed it down too tight, but I suppose it's possible I did. At no point while tightening was the gap between the fence and pulley smaller.

Bearing stuck on spool: I misread the instructions for the spool, and put 2 of the shims on each side of the spool. When I did the diff and had no shims left, I realized my mistake. But one of the bearings fits extremely tight on the spool, and I can't get seem to get it off, so I've got both spacers on the same side on the front. :/

Slight slop in the steering support shaft: There's a small amount (.1-.2mm) vertical play in the steering assembly on the shaft. Is it there for a reason, or should I shim it out?

Pivot block insert depth: On the non-offset blocks, the pivot block insert goes all the way through and is flush on the inside. With the offset blocks, the insert falls maybe .2mm short of the inner face of the block, where it sits against the bulkhead. Is this by design? Maybe it's designed as crush space to get the blocks super tight?

Pivoting Body Supports: They don't seem to work super well with the kit body clips. The clip doesn't slide in fully and seat on the post (although it seems to seat well enough), and it also inhibits the free rotation of the body support. Is there a different size / shape of body clip that works better?

-Mike

NateRug

iTrader: (4)

++

Its amazing how much this can effect how free the drive train is. As carpet fibers get stuck to the pulleys, the pulley diameter increases, tightening your belt and eventually causing a skip as it fills in the teeth.

Walter Johnson

iTrader: (2)

Did you ever get a setup that works? I'd be very interested to find out what changes were made.

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

Running the inner hole on the arms softens the front a bit. Its like going down 1/2 to 1lb on the spring. I run my VTA car this way with silver springs all the way around.

wcalaker

iTrader: (1)

Trytowin - Cant you put a shim between the tire and the wheel hex to push your tire out a little bit so it will clear?

Why do you need to go that far with your steering? My TC6 has so much steering i have to dial a ton of it out.

Good luck

Walter Johnson

iTrader: (2)

The class has spec rims and tires & the offset on the front rims isn't ideal of the TC6, I'm going to try some shims tonight.

91420l

iTrader: (4)

I need an advice fellow TC6 drivers.

It seems my servo horn travels more to one side to have same steering angle in wheels even with quite amount of sub-trim.

This seems to be caused by alighnment of steering linkage which is not parallel.
I tried many times to get linkage parallel/square but no luck yet.

Is there any tricks to equorize right-Left servo horn travel and steering some how? or they should differ right to left?

Thanks in advance!!

piper48

Try different brand servo horn and hope splines line up straight or adjust steering sub-trim on your radio.

91420l

iTrader: (4)

Thanks piper.

Different brand of servo? I user XP DS1015 and stock horn comes with kit and built as directed by manual.

Is there any chance if I can ask for pics of your linkage from top and side view?

Walter Johnson

iTrader: (2)

You want the throw to be equal from left to right & when the wheels are straight all the linkages should be at 90 degree angles.

Have you tried getting it aligned using spacers? I'm guessing the servo needs to move away from the center of the car or the first linkage needs to move towards the center? If you have a local shop, I'm sure they could help you out.

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

I am thinking its time to start over.
Take the servo out, set your radio back to center for trim and sub trim, plug in servo and turn the car on.
The servo will center itself, then install the servo horn at a 90 deg angle to servo.
If its off center a little adjust it with your sub trim. Once you get the servo adjusted its ready to go.
If all of the tie rods are set to what the measurement are in the manual there should be no problems.......maybe double check the lengths with the images in the manual.
When you bolt the servo in make sure the horn stays pointing at a 90 deg angle and the wheels point straight forward. You have a little adjustment with sliding the servo forward and back in the chassis and you can also lengthen or shorten the tie rod going from the horn to the rack.
Once everything is installed set your trim first then with the dual rate set to 100% carefully adjust the epa on the radio so the steering knuckle just touches the castor block, then dial the dual rate down a couple clicks for safety. This should be your starting point on the track, you should only need to dial your dual rate up and down from here depending on how the car drives.
I know this is more info than you asked for but it should get everything straightened out.

roger999

iTrader: (13)

+1

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

I just built a new 6.1 and noticed there is a lot of rubbing on the wheels. Mainly its on the bottom of the front and rear a-arms, where the ribs are. It seems like when the suspension compresses too much, perhaps when hitting bumps they will hit the arm. I ran my car for the first time last night and all 4 corners hit. We do race on a track that uses dots, so probably this is increased over other tracks. However, has anyone else experienced this?

I also noticed the rear camber link is now longer than on the 6 and that the hubs are about 0.5mm higher on the outside mounting position. I had to decrease 0.5mm of shimming to keep the turnbuckle eyelet from hitting.

I guess these are just things to look out for. They can cause some really erratic behavior sometimes.

Rodrigo360

iTrader: (-1)

Hi,

I want to present my recently purchased TC6.1



I'm going to race on 10.5 Stock class on parking lot asphalt (medium grip).
I'm running on LOSI Xcelorin 10.5T, what do you recommend me?

thanks a lot.