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Old 01-21-2012, 08:58 AM   #5521
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I didn't boil my castor blocks, but my steering was very tight on one side. I found that tightening the kingpin ball and screw loosened it up. I think this because it actually compressed the knuckle a bit. That does make me wonder, though. Is the screw supposed to pivot in the bushing, or is the bushing supposed to pivot in the hub?

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Old 01-21-2012, 01:53 PM   #5522
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Yep sanded them down a smidge and loosened a little and they are fine

Next dumb blonde question, looking at the caster on the front, it looks like its leaning 4deg forward, shouldnt it be leaning backwards

I cant figure out if i have put something in wrong, or if its the way it is.
Im coming from a real race car background, and its always leaning backwrds.

Beth.
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:35 PM   #5523
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Yep sanded them down a smidge and loosened a little and they are fine

Next dumb blonde question, looking at the caster on the front, it looks like its leaning 4deg forward, shouldnt it be leaning backwards

I cant figure out if i have put something in wrong, or if its the way it is.
Im coming from a real race car background, and its always leaning backwrds.

Beth.
Positive caster should be leaning back just like a real car. Pop your inserts out and flip them around so when installed they lean to the back of the car.

Kody
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:57 PM   #5524
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Next dumb blonde question, looking at the caster on the front, it looks like its leaning 4deg forward, shouldnt it be leaning backwards

I cant figure out if i have put something in wrong, or if its the way it is.
Im coming from a real race car background, and its always leaning backwrds.

Beth.
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Positive caster should be leaning back just like a real car. Pop your inserts out and flip them around so when installed they lean to the back of the car.

Kody
Yes, go back and look carefully at the manual. When I first built the car I built both the front and rear as right side blocks for all four corners
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:12 PM   #5525
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Is it strange on the 6.1 that has inserts for the castor so you don't have to remove the entire castor block yet in the instructions it says to permanately CA glue it

Maybe I thought it was to speed up setup change but maybe it's so you only need one castor block with multiple inserts

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Old 01-21-2012, 03:16 PM   #5526
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This is real close to my current setup as well...... Little softer on springs and dual ball diffs

Anyone have suggestions for Snowbirds? Just a week away..... Going through the car this weekend....... What springs? Blue front and silver AE rear? What oil? Anyone know what the spec tires will be? Ran oval last year...... First time doing onroad..... With a new car that only has two races on it...... Any help would be great
I doubt you will need blues. If you had were prepared with silver/silver and silver/green you would be set. 30-40 wt oil in 2.5 wt increments should allow you to find a good setup. Definitely check the latest AE setup sheets to get some decent starting points.

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Anyone else notice after boiling their caster blocks that the steering block is a little tight ??

I boiled them before i built it so i have no reference, it moves, just not as free as i would have thought.

I have some tc6 Caster blocks arriving in the post tomorrow, ill try them and see if there is a difference

Beth.
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Yep sanded them down a smidge and loosened a little and they are fine

Next dumb blonde question, looking at the caster on the front, it looks like its leaning 4deg forward, shouldnt it be leaning backwards

I cant figure out if i have put something in wrong, or if its the way it is.
Im coming from a real race car background, and its always leaning backwrds.

Beth.
They should always lean back. The sttering block is the item that is better a little tight than a little loose (within reason of course).
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:19 PM   #5527
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Is it strange on the 6.1 that has inserts for the castor so you don't have to remove the entire castor block yet in the instructions it says to permanately CA glue it

Maybe I thought it was to speed up setup change but maybe it's so you only need one castor block with multiple inserts
In my opinion this design means that racers and dealers can carry fewer parts. Gone are the days of racers running out of right sides while they still have a box full of lefts.
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:21 PM   #5528
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In my opinion this design means that racers and dealers can carry fewer parts. Gone are the days of racers running out of right sides while they still have a box full of lefts.
Nice

You got pm

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:40 PM   #5529
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Yes, go back and look carefully at the manual. When I first built the car I built both the front and rear as right side blocks for all four corners
Yep i was definitely having a blond moment i see my mistake now, i had the inserts on the other side the wrong way around
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:29 PM   #5530
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Had my TC6 get burned up from a bad lipo. Well the front end is ruined and chassis and top deck are tweaked from the heat. Gonna need a replacement car. I was kinda bummed the 6.1 came out pretty much right after i bought my car. The few laps i got in with my TC6 were great. Drove really well and i love it. Now i have to make a decision. Do i get a brand new 6.1 or I can get another TC6 used pretty cheap locally?

The only thing that is throwing a wrench in my decision for me is that I really like a few things on the XRay T3 2012 and im thinking about getting that car instead. The things i like about the Xray is the available ECS driveshafts and i really prefer the way they have the steering set up. Now if Assoc comes out with the ECS type of drive shafts its a no brainer.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:50 PM   #5531
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Had my TC6 get burned up from a bad lipo. Well the front end is ruined and chassis and top deck are tweaked from the heat. Gonna need a replacement car. I was kinda bummed the 6.1 came out pretty much right after i bought my car. The few laps i got in with my TC6 were great. Drove really well and i love it. Now i have to make a decision. Do i get a brand new 6.1 or I can get another TC6 used pretty cheap locally?

The only thing that is throwing a wrench in my decision for me is that I really like a few things on the XRay T3 2012 and im thinking about getting that car instead. The things i like about the Xray is the available ECS driveshafts and i really prefer the way they have the steering set up. Now if Assoc comes out with the ECS type of drive shafts its a no brainer.
RSD is making 56mm ECS for the 6.1, should be out soon. Hotbodies DCJs are a direct drop in too.

Mike
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:55 PM   #5532
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Ya the only thing is its not a drop in for the 6.1 and even with the 6 you have to do some modifications (from what i hear). Another thing that sort of scares me is i have a buddy who just got a 6.1 and i gave him some old caster blocks because he said the slop in the new blocks are horrible.

Can you get the HB DCJ's fairly easy? Are they a direct drop in to the 6.1 or 6?

Thx
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:01 PM   #5533
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Ya the only thing is its not a drop in for the 6.1 and even with the 6 you have to do some modifications (from what i hear). Another thing that sort of scares me is i have a buddy who just got a 6.1 and i gave him some old caster blocks because he said the slop in the new blocks are horrible.

Can you get the HB DCJ's fairly easy? Are they a direct drop in to the 6.1 or 6?

Thx
The HB DCJs are a direct fit for the 6.1, use HB cyclone TC hexes and you'll be good to go.

As far as the slop goes, I boil my C-hubs, then glue the inserts in. I also use .050 or .058 shims to tighten things up. Even with the slop, you won't notice it on the track.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:35 PM   #5534
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Great. Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:48 PM   #5535
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The HB DCJs are a direct fit for the 6.1, use HB cyclone TC hexes and you'll be good to go.

As far as the slop goes, I boil my C-hubs, then glue the inserts in. I also use .050 or .058 shims to tighten things up. Even with the slop, you won't notice it on the track.
does the kit come with the shims? or where can we get the shims & what kind of shims work?

can you elaborate more about how & why you boil them? temperature etc...
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