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Old 01-09-2012, 07:57 AM   #5371
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
I would like to add my 2 cents to this hinge pin mount "issue".

The new mounts are an improvement over the old ones. I didn't really have a problem with the old ones.............its not like they would loosen up while you were driving. It would take a hard crash to get them to shift. If they did shift the car was still driveable.

If you have a hard hit on the boards in practice or a race you should be checking your car over before the next time it hits the track.
This would include making sure the arms are free...........just takes a few seconds.

With that being said I have had some hard hits with the new car and not even shifted the hinge pin mounts the slightest bit.

This is a non-issue, there is nothing to worry about with the new hinge pin mounts.
+2. I had concerns also but one of the AE guys at my track explained that the hinge pin mounts were designed to give on impact so you don't end up breaking arms and hub carriers or bending hinge pins on hard hits.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:00 AM   #5372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
I would like to add my 2 cents to this hinge pin mount "issue".

The new mounts are an improvement over the old ones. I didn't really have a problem with the old ones.............its not like they would loosen up while you were driving. It would take a hard crash to get them to shift. If they did shift the car was still driveable.

If you have a hard hit on the boards in practice or a race you should be checking your car over before the next time it hits the track.
This would include making sure the arms are free...........just takes a few seconds.

With that being said I have had some hard hits with the new car and not even shifted the hinge pin mounts the slightest bit.

This is a non-issue, there is nothing to worry about with the new hinge pin mounts.
Guys..... Really! These are race cars that we beat hard on...... Things move and need to be checked. I just went through mine last night. I was missing three front bulkhead mounting acres from the chassis plate. N o wonder it was driving poorly.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:19 AM   #5373
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I double check and do the following things after EVERY run....... excessive? Maybe....

-Ride height
-Droop
-Loosen upper deck and "detweak"
-Tighten wheel nuts
-Check steering screws
-Retighten/set arm mounts
-Check motor mount screws
-Check belts (tension/splitting)
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:26 AM   #5374
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
I double check and do the following things after EVERY run....... excessive? Maybe....

-Ride height
-Droop
-Loosen upper deck and "detweak"
-Tighten wheel nuts
-Check steering screws
-Retighten/set arm mounts
-Check motor mount screws
-Check belts (tension/splitting)
I thought I was anal.. I put it on the hudy station after every run. Most of the time I'd have to readjust the camber/toe. I always check camber/toe/ride height/droop after every run. God what a pain compared to off-road.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:11 PM   #5375
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wow i can understand doing a full car check at the worlds... but for club racing?

unless you hit something very hard the car is so durable it's a non issue...

I ran 5 heats yesterday and tapped my share of boards and even jumped a board and rolled back onto the wheels... hit a stopped car that spun in front of me and had to pop the entire front right corner of my LW body back out... the only thing i did all day was rotate my tires (which i do every run to lengthen tire life) and check my tweak once after making a suspension change... car drove straight and true all day....
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:06 PM   #5376
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wow i can understand doing a full car check at the worlds... but for club racing?

unless you hit something very hard the car is so durable it's a non issue...

I ran 5 heats yesterday and tapped my share of boards and even jumped a board and rolled back onto the wheels... hit a stopped car that spun in front of me and had to pop the entire front right corner of my LW body back out... the only thing i did all day was rotate my tires (which i do every run to lengthen tire life) and check my tweak once after making a suspension change... car drove straight and true all day....
I just got into a habit of doing it, and it developed into one of those borderline-OCD things. I like going out knowing the car is mechanically in the exact same shape it was before --- perfect.
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:12 PM   #5377
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Another "WTF" thing...

My ICE charger is 7+ years old, and my DX3R just turned 4. I still have the clear protective film on both! GRANTED it's a little worn out, but it's still attached........

I never even thought about it until someone pointed it out. So now the guys like to pretend as if they are going to tear them off when around my stuff.

Not gonna lie...... I tense up a little
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:12 PM   #5378
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do you guys thing tc6.1 have better handling over tc6?
its same shocks and chassis. difference is changed from front slipper spool/rear ball diff to front spool/rear gear diff, arms and hinge pin blocks
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:20 PM   #5379
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I never had problems with the old or the new mounts. They rarely move on their own during racing unless you crash hard into a board, it might shift a little bit but not enough to affect the performance a whole lot.

I usually detweak my top deck after a hard crash and im done.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:40 PM   #5380
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
I double check and do the following things after EVERY run....... excessive? Maybe....

-Ride height
-Droop
-Loosen upper deck and "detweak"
-Tighten wheel nuts
-Check steering screws
-Retighten/set arm mounts
-Check motor mount screws
-Check belts (tension/splitting)
Can you share with me how you "detweak" the car? Many thanks in advance....
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:44 PM   #5381
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
My ICE charger is 7+ years old
LOL!!! I have an ICE with a back light improvement, but I'm retiring it for a new charger... Just got it....

ProTek-R-C-Prodigy-610
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:03 PM   #5382
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Can you share with me how you "detweak" the car? Many thanks in advance....
Loosen the upper deck screws and unbolt the shocks from the shock tower. Also disconnect swaybars if you are using them. I usually also loosen the motor mount screws to redo if there was a hit. Give the car a gentle twist both ways. Put the car on a flat surface and tighten the motor mount screws. Next, tighten the upper deck screws.... SNUG. No reason to torque them to 100ft/lbs. Reattach the shocks and then check ride height/droop/etc......

It's such a routine for me that it takes maybe a minute tops.

When I'm feeling frisky, I'll loosen the bulkhead clamp screws and the bulkhead bottom screws along with the others before giving it a light twist. Usually I'll only do this if there was a bad hit somewhere!
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:23 PM   #5383
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Loosen the upper deck screws and unbolt the shocks from the shock tower. Also disconnect swaybars if you are using them. I usually also loosen the motor mount screws to redo if there was a hit. Give the car a gentle twist both ways. Put the car on a flat surface and tighten the motor mount screws. Next, tighten the upper deck screws.... SNUG. No reason to torque them to 100ft/lbs. Reattach the shocks and then check ride height/droop/etc......

It's such a routine for me that it takes maybe a minute tops.

When I'm feeling frisky, I'll loosen the bulkhead clamp screws and the bulkhead bottom screws along with the others before giving it a light twist. Usually I'll only do this if there was a bad hit somewhere!
How do you handle the screws that not flush with the bottom plate? This seems to be my headache....
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:36 PM   #5384
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How do you handle the screws that not flush with the bottom plate? This seems to be my headache....
All of the screws should be flush. You can buy a countersinking kit or (like I do) very carefully use a Dremel to increase the countersunk hole.
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:37 PM   #5385
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OR buy the aluminum screw set. Those sit much better than the stock steel ones......
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