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Old 01-04-2012, 09:08 AM   #5281
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Originally Posted by Paul.Spencer View Post
Chris,
Watched your vids from the 22nd of November.
A few things.
I would raise your ride height as I can hear it chattering over the bumps coming into some of the turns, even over that wind lol. I would also look at having more droop say about 2mm to 2.5mm over ride height. (Set your ride height to 6mm, then screw the droop screws out/in so when you lift the rear of the car by the shock towers you reach a ride height of 8-8.5 mm, just beofre the tyres come off the ground)
Your brakes seem to be too strong also and are locking up as your brake, this is where the car gets a bit of its over steer. I would also gear up, on the back straight it sounds like it is revving out pretty hard which means you have low gearing in it. Low gearing will also promote more wheel spin from out of the corners as it generates more torque. Maybe also adjust that throttle finger also

For 6 degree temps, I would be using a very low range temp tyre like a sorex 24. I would suggest tyre warmers too and bring them up to heat at around 60 deg for 10 mins.

Adjusting the fron to rear roll centres will not do any harm at all. Essentially a car has four basic roll centres. One at the front, one at the rear one horizonatally (front to back) and one vertically (up and down, though thsi is not really a rollc entre it own right but the effective sum of all of the roll centres acting on each other, dynamics, not static.). In terms of roll the best way to think about it is "every action has an equal an opposite reaction" Ie if i place more load on the left then there is less load on the right (play with your car and push down on the top left of the shock tower), well in terms if things are equally balanced, ie symetyrical.
So when i suggest lowering the rear roll centre you are basicall angling the chassis downward towards the rear of the car. This reduses the weight transfer from the rear of the car to the front of the car across the vertical roll centre, also known as "jacking" (commonly a karting term) ie the end of the car lifts up.
This is where dynamic forces come into play, so imagine if you are braking the rear of the car jacks due to a too high roll centre and then you turn. The lightest end will want to rotate around the front directional axis and the rear will lose the grip.
Now with the front roll centre essentially it is the same as the rear, however it is generally the main pivot point for a vehicle. Basically the front roll centre can have the largest effect on the amount for front grip A high roll centre is best for high grip tracks due to the redued amount of cambergain and effective larger load that a high roll centre promotes, the car feels stiffer. Where the lower roll centre promotes a larger amount of camber gain that gives a softer feel and allows more grip on low traction surfaces. As a rule of thumb for me, if it understeers too much go lower, if it turns to sharply or traction rolls on the front go higher. This can also have a lot to do with springs in the front also.
So the best setup is the right spring rate with the right dampening oil, coupled with the right roll centres front/rear and front to rear for the amount of grip that the track and tyres can give.

Its a cool little track that you have there and intersting tunnel, I bet that can cause some carnage.

A bit of a lecture I know, but I Hope I have passed on my knowledge to some people and it helps you in some way.
many thanks for all those head light i will try all those step by spep
till november i have already added gear on the diff n also adjust ride height
so thing are getting better
i will go to B 0 on the rear n pratice also with reducing the brake power
will try also harder spring in front
i hope to have a good spring to get enought time to pratice on all those direction
this year is a trainning i will try to do the regional race next year on stock 10.5 t


youre right the tunnel on race day is always terrible
like the first corner as starting line is just few meters before the end of the straight

thanks again for taking type to see the little films
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:11 PM   #5282
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First bunch of TC6.1 parts have come in
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:11 PM   #5283
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Default 6.1 Caster blocks

Just so everyone knows we are looking into the caster block problems.
It doesn't appear to be a situation where every caster block is bad but there are some that seem to have some kind of injection flaw. The situation is being looked at.

One thing that I have asked a couple people to try that they have reported positive results is boiling the blocks in water for 5 minutes. Please allow the water to cool to room temperature on it's own, do not dunk them in cold water after boiling them. Sorry for the problems.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #5284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Just so everyone knows we are looking into the caster block problems.
It doesn't appear to be a situation where every caster block is bad but there are some that seem to have some kind of injection flaw. The situation is being looked at.

One thing that I have asked a couple people to try that they have reported positive results is boiling the blocks in water for 5 minutes. Please allow the water to cool to room temperature on it's own, do not dunk them in cold water after boiling them. Sorry for the problems.
Sean, another thing we have noticed is the huge difference in sloppiness between the new style c-hubs and the old kind in the TC5 and TC6. The TC6.1 has a huge amount of play with the new C-Hubs. I purchased quite a few sets of replacement C-hubs and am now regretting it as the old ones seem to fit with little free play.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:42 PM   #5285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Just so everyone knows we are looking into the caster block problems.
It doesn't appear to be a situation where every caster block is bad but there are some that seem to have some kind of injection flaw. The situation is being looked at.

One thing that I have asked a couple people to try that they have reported positive results is boiling the blocks in water for 5 minutes. Please allow the water to cool to room temperature on it's own, do not dunk them in cold water after boiling them. Sorry for the problems.
Just knowing that AE is going to resolve a problem (like always!) is good enough for me.

I was taught in the beginning that if I was going to hit the hard objects with my aluminum, plastic & carbon toys, expect damage to my toys!!!
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #5286
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Just wondering if the TC6 caster and Armset will still be avail for replacement.
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:32 PM   #5287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
Just so everyone knows we are looking into the caster block problems.
It doesn't appear to be a situation where every caster block is bad but there are some that seem to have some kind of injection flaw. The situation is being looked at.

One thing that I have asked a couple people to try that they have reported positive results is boiling the blocks in water for 5 minutes. Please allow the water to cool to room temperature on it's own, do not dunk them in cold water after boiling them. Sorry for the problems.
Yeah, on mine the insides had huge hollow areas, if the one unbroken one is still in my box when I go back to the track Friday I'll break it (by hand lol) and take a picture

I've switched back to the older style versions and had no problems for the rest of the day
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:38 PM   #5288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
One thing that I have asked a couple people to try that they have reported positive results is boiling the blocks in water for 5 minutes. Please allow the water to cool to room temperature on it's own, do not dunk them in cold water after boiling them. Sorry for the problems.
An old trick we use to do on brittle plastic many years ago
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:41 PM   #5289
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Default TC6 to TC6.1

Please redirect and forgive me if this has been answered already. I have a TC6 and came across this "whats needed to make it a TC6.1 site" http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...6.1/index.html.

What parts are essential if trying to upgrade my TC6 to TC6.1?
Not really looking to by another car and just doing parking lot stuff.
Still want something competitive as I do face xrays and hb tcx cars.

Thanks!

NVM found the answer some post back.

Last edited by ChampRC; 01-05-2012 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Found the answer.
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:27 PM   #5290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonesyCGY View Post
Sean, another thing we have noticed is the huge difference in sloppiness between the new style c-hubs and the old kind in the TC5 and TC6. The TC6.1 has a huge amount of play with the new C-Hubs. I purchased quite a few sets of replacement C-hubs and am now regretting it as the old ones seem to fit with little free play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.Spencer View Post
Hi all,

Here is a tip for the people who are having issues with the slop in the TC6.1

As you have all found the front and rear hubs have got interchangable inserts for the toe and or castor.

I have found that when buidling the cars do not push the inserts in all the way into the hubs and or castor blocks, leave around 1mm protruding.

Then do a dummy fit into the arms before ca'ing them into place. When you push them into the arms you will set the tollerence required to ensure a snug yet functional fit. I have found that the difference between the ID of the arm and the OD of the hub can be between 0.1 and 0.2 of a mm and this is where the majority of the slop at the top of the hub can be found.

Remember - always make sure that the part don't bind and fall back where they should, flick the hub back and forth if it sticks the just apply a little back and forth pressure to loosen it up.

After you have set the hubs a dab of ca will hold them in place,
Hope this helps.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:01 PM   #5291
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I'll try that next time Paul and the boiling trick to see if it helps when my spares come.

Appreciate the advice. Sorry should have done a search.

Now I just need to figure out why I'm breaking CVA Blades in the front f the car.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #5292
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To be honest, The blades just became a consumable for me. You can try the Xray ones they just need a little sanding, they are a bit softer.
I replaced the blades once or maybe twice a race meet. The front locked spool will put a bigger load through the front. I would try and offset the spool cups by 90 deg maybe, though this won't really fix too much.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:17 PM   #5293
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Its worth a shot. Replaced 4 broken blades in 3 runs. Something is definetly wrong, I just can't find it. Will see if I can get someone to look it over next race night.

thanks again.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:11 AM   #5294
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Are you using the slipperspool in front?

In my TC5 I had the same problem with the blades. I drove a spool in front and every little hit killed a blade. Since using the slipper spool (in my TC6) I just broke one blade in 12 months. And that hit killed some other things, too.
Maybe you can take a look at the setting of the slipperspool. Maybe you made it too tight, or something is not working there the way it should...?
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:38 AM   #5295
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Are you using the slipperspool in front?

In my TC5 I had the same problem with the blades. I drove a spool in front and every little hit killed a blade. Since using the slipper spool (in my TC6) I just broke one blade in 12 months. And that hit killed some other things, too.
Maybe you can take a look at the setting of the slipperspool. Maybe you made it too tight, or something is not working there the way it should...?
No I'm driving the 6.1 and it has a solid spool(from kit). I'm using a slipper spool in my TC5 and have only broken the blades a few times over the last 2 years.

I might have to resort to buying a slipper spool.
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