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Old 12-31-2011, 05:19 AM   #5221
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We are driving on a high traction carpet. Tried spool vs. putty vs. front diff (600k, 500k, 300k). We all experienced the same thing leek of power out of corners and 0.4-0.5s slower times vs. spool. A lap is approx. 16s. Front diff is more easy to drive/consistent but the spool is faster and a little bit twitchy. Putty is somewhere in between.

This is our experience.

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I was having questions about this last night. I just got a TC6 a couple weeks back. Used to run TC3s back in the day. Never have run a spool..... If I understand the terms.

Can someone clarify the terms?

Spool = Front One-way??

Front diff = ball diff or Factory Slipper Spool??

PUTTY = New geared diff with very thick fluid?

How is the factory friction disks used? How is a Putty setup different?

Sorry for all the questions........ Just want to understand what I have and what I should still try.......

F
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Old 12-31-2011, 05:52 AM   #5222
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Spool = Locked front diff or solid pulley

Front Diff = Front Gear Diff

Putty = What you said but more like a gum than a fluid (plasma haha)

The factory friction disks allow you to change the ball diff into a spool by replacing the large diff balls with the pads.
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:12 AM   #5223
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So...... Is the term "spool" used for a locked front or one-way? IOW with spool setups do you have front brakes or just e-brake?
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:26 AM   #5224
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So...... Is the term "spool" used for a locked front or one-way? IOW with spool setups do you have front brakes or just e-brake?
Spool means locked. One-ways haven't been used for a while.
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:04 AM   #5225
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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
We are driving on a high traction carpet. Tried spool vs. putty vs. front diff (600k, 500k, 300k). We all experienced the same thing leek of power out of corners and 0.4-0.5s slower times vs. spool. A lap is approx. 16s. Front diff is more easy to drive/consistent but the spool is faster and a little bit twitchy. Putty is somewhere in between.

This is our experience.

Regards
16-second laps? That is a good sized track! I've also noticed on bigger tracks that a spool is usually faster since you don't need the rotating characteristics of a front gear diff. Our typical laps are (layout dependent) 10's to mid 12's..... I've always preferred the gear diff on our track.

Putty is just tricky to build and get set right.... that's why you don't see it often. However, it is worth trying if you want that in-between as Geberit says.
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Old 12-31-2011, 09:56 PM   #5226
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I broke a caster block tonight on my 6.1 does anyone know where i could find someone that has them in stock. Does anyone know if a tc6's caster block will work on the 6.1 just in case i cant find any, right now its not looking to good. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:20 PM   #5227
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I broke a caster block tonight on my 6.1 does anyone know where i could find someone that has them in stock. Does anyone know if a tc6's caster block will work on the 6.1 just in case i cant find any, right now its not looking to good. Thanks for any help in advance.
Tower show's them in stock. How bad was the hit?
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:20 PM   #5228
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Originally Posted by jvroffroadrc View Post
I broke a caster block tonight on my 6.1 does anyone know where i could find someone that has them in stock. Does anyone know if a tc6's caster block will work on the 6.1 just in case i cant find any, right now its not looking to good. Thanks for any help in advance.
I broke one as well on Fri. night. The TC6 blocks fit just fine, as a matter of fact,they fit better. With the "new" design, there was so much slop that I could move the upper ball 2mm front to back. With the TC6 caster block in, all play was eliminated. Think I'll just stick with the "old" part.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:44 PM   #5229
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Tower show's them in stock. How bad was the hit?
To be honest i dont really know when it happened i dont remember any really bad hits. I got turned by another car trying to pass and then the guy behind him hit but not really hard that is the only thing i can think of. I glued it with CA glue but it didnt hold for the main but i was able to finish.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:46 PM   #5230
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I broke one as well on Fri. night. The TC6 blocks fit just fine, as a matter of fact,they fit better. With the "new" design, there was so much slop that I could move the upper ball 2mm front to back. With the TC6 caster block in, all play was eliminated. Think I'll just stick with the "old" part.
Thanks for the help i may just use some i have for my old tc5 until there are more to be had.
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Old 12-31-2011, 11:04 PM   #5231
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To be honest i dont really know when it happened i dont remember any really bad hits. I got turned by another car trying to pass and then the guy behind him hit but not really hard that is the only thing i can think of. I glued it with CA glue but it didnt hold for the main but i was able to finish.
I was hoping you were going to say it was a very bad wreck and that's all that broke. I've trying to decide between running my 6.1 or my T3 '12 for snowbirds but if the hubs on the 6.1 are weak then that'll pretty much make the decision for me as I want to finish as many runs as I can. I got to drive mine for the first time Friday and it handled great, very smooth and easy to drive.
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:23 AM   #5232
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I was hoping you were going to say it was a very bad wreck and that's all that broke. I've trying to decide between running my 6.1 or my T3 '12 for snowbirds but if the hubs on the 6.1 are weak then that'll pretty much make the decision for me as I want to finish as many runs as I can. I got to drive mine for the first time Friday and it handled great, very smooth and easy to drive.
I have ran my car for 3 races and 3 nights of practice so far and this is the first break or problem i have had. I didnt brake anything else just the left front caster block. So far the car has been great other than this one problem. I have taken plenty of hard hits before this and had no damage at all so i think that this was just a fluke really. I have only driven a t3 10 so i can only compare it to that car not the 12 but so far i would say that i think the 6.1 is more durable than it was. Dont want to scare you off from running the 6.1 because i do think it is a great car.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:10 AM   #5233
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Have been racing me TC6.1 for a couple of nights now, and i'm not faster on my fastest lap, but i'm consistent 4-6 sec faster over a 5 min run.

The biggest different from the TC6, is that it is much easier to drive, has a much smoother feel, and i feel i can push the car harder, with out riskin it all every time.

I'm running a slight "modified" Juho ATS set-up, longer camber links rear, lower camber links front, and a spool.

I have been testing different locked gear diff methods, and found that when i use this

https://www.fg-onlineshop.de/ItemDet...=0&webi=0&pr=0

The diff is more consistent through out the hole race, it is made for Large Scale cars.


Greetings and happy new year.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:14 AM   #5234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvroffroadrc View Post
To be honest i dont really know when it happened i dont remember any really bad hits. I got turned by another car trying to pass and then the guy behind him hit but not really hard that is the only thing i can think of. I glued it with CA glue but it didnt hold for the main but i was able to finish.
I had the same problem. I broke both left and right C-hubs while practicing and there were no big hits anywhere. I replaced them with TC6 4 degree hubs and no problems since then. I noticed an irregularity in the plastic at the break. It looks like the plastic in the center is granulated. I'm not a plastic's expert so I'm going to send them to AE so they can take a look.

Anyway, I plan on running the TC6 hubs until they offer a better hub, i.e. aluminum would be nice.

Jim
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:01 AM   #5235
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Gear diffs - fluid
I am running on a medium traction tight carpet track. I want to try the gear diff so would 1,000 wt be a good starting point? I will run it with the spool but also considering testing with a front diff as well so is 500,000 wt a good start for the front?

Thank you
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
On our medium bite carpet track, I'm running 30wt AE shock oil rear, and 500k in the front. The car is dialed

My buddy is running a spool with 40wt in his with good results, also, but he is more point-n-shoot with his driving style.
Is that 40wt shock oil in a rear gear diff?

Running on a 16-17 sec asphalt track with fairly high traction. Looking for a couple oils to try.
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