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Old 12-20-2011, 08:19 AM   #5086
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Originally Posted by ahpeq_ong View Post
any review for new tc6.1...?
i heard the gear diff giving some hard time...
going to buy next week bcause most of LHS out of stock...
i dont have the 6.1 but im using the diffs front and back. putty in the front and 40wt in the rear. i love them, no leaks, and I didnt even use green slime on the gasket. on that note, i'm waiting on the tc6.1 parts to become available so i can start converting and picking up spares. i could use some spare 6deg caster blocks and rear hubs right now but don't want to pick them up because it will be useless to me once i convert.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:00 AM   #5087
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Hi All

I just got my 6.1 built, and it was great!! The only one thing about it is that with the new caster block (with 4 degree inserts), I find it wobble back to front quite a bit, is that normal?

I would not normally say that if it is, say a Tamiya car, with a soft caster block.

But just that the whole of the 6.1 moving parts was so so nicely fitted together, I find that the caster block was moving too much.

I look forward to run the car on the weekend.

Cheers!
I have the same problem with mine. The hinge pins are 2.4mm or .096". All the play comes from the castor block inserts and not the lower arm. Here's what I did to fix it. I installed the hinge pin in the castor block (with inserts installed of course) and then put a drop of thin CA in the castor block followed quickly by CA kicker. I did this on both sides of the castor block inserts. Then remove the pin and install in the arm. Almost zero play now. One other note, each hinge pin has a small burr at each end, you need to remove the burr to prevent you from removing material from the hinge pin hole each time to install or remove the pin.

Hope this helps,

Jim
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:23 AM   #5088
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I have the same problem with mine. The hinge pins are 2.4mm or .096". All the play comes from the castor block inserts and not the lower arm. Here's what I did to fix it. I installed the hinge pin in the castor block (with inserts installed of course) and then put a drop of thin CA in the castor block followed quickly by CA kicker. I did this on both sides of the castor block inserts. Then remove the pin and install in the arm. Almost zero play now. One other note, each hinge pin has a small burr at each end, you need to remove the burr to prevent you from removing material from the hinge pin hole each time to install or remove the pin.

Hope this helps,

Jim
I was told the caster blocks would be a little loose by a fellow racer who has the same car. He suggested drilling and tapping a 3mm grub screw like they
have on Tamiya and Xray caster blocks.
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:50 PM   #5089
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Originally Posted by Jim Frahm View Post
I have the same problem with mine. The hinge pins are 2.4mm or .096". All the play comes from the castor block inserts and not the lower arm. Here's what I did to fix it. I installed the hinge pin in the castor block (with inserts installed of course) and then put a drop of thin CA in the castor block followed quickly by CA kicker. I did this on both sides of the castor block inserts. Then remove the pin and install in the arm. Almost zero play now. One other note, each hinge pin has a small burr at each end, you need to remove the burr to prevent you from removing material from the hinge pin hole each time to install or remove the pin.

Hope this helps,

Jim

H Jim

Your pro tip is great, I will try that for sure! Just wanted to know that if the pin will not get stuck while doing the CA?


Cheers
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:24 PM   #5090
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H Jim

Your pro tip is great, I will try that for sure! Just wanted to know that if the pin will not get stuck while doing the CA?


Cheers
The pin will not get stuck.

After reading piper48's tip I think I will try the grub screw idea next time.

jim
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:22 PM   #5091
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I was told the caster blocks would be a little loose by a fellow racer who has the same car. He suggested drilling and tapping a 3mm grub screw like they
have on Tamiya and Xray caster blocks.
Hi Piper, your tips is also great, will sure give it a try Cheers
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:49 AM   #5092
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finished my 6.1 monday night havent had any problems with the diff or caster inserts i had to snap the inserts with pliers real tight fit this car so far has a lot less problems during the build at least for me. When i built my tc6 had a few minor issues but nothing i could weed out... Also the hot bodi DCJ fit with no mod to the caster blocks just have to drill the blades
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:06 AM   #5093
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Where is my post? I posted a long question about roll center and handling...... Did it get lost on a moderator?
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:41 PM   #5094
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Yeah!! Tower got a small shipment of 6.1's today, so I got mine ordered. Should have it Tuesday.

Merry Christmas to me!
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:52 PM   #5095
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Stormer Hobbies has 3 in stock right now as well.
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:32 PM   #5096
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So.... Can someone explain this to a newbie?

Used to race a TC3 years ago.... Just had my first race with a used TC6. I looked over the car and rebuilt the shocks with 40wt oil. Was a handful to drive! Remove the rear sway arm..... Helps a bit.
Talk to Shaun Mac and Gene..... They suggest raising my roll center from 0B to 3B. Did the rear first...... Reset droop and RH...... Pushing like a truck. Did the same To the front..... Much better! Can actually drive the car with some aggressiveness. Finally have the tires barking!

Now........ Trying to get my head around what I did........ I thought raising the roll center would stiffen the suspension and decrease traction??? It did the opposite...... Made it tighter in the turns and more stable in the straight :-D
Do intelligent people want to answer this? I don't want to provide bad information.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:59 PM   #5097
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ok i just came from the track car was very good with 70 weight oil in the rear diff, but my cvd's are binding up when turning left and right, so much so that the front suspension hops up and down and down along with an embarrassing noise. any ideas on what to do?

thanks Brian
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:30 PM   #5098
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Anyone know what size holes are in the a b c pistons
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:37 PM   #5099
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Originally Posted by bjanzen View Post
So.... Can someone explain this to a newbie?

Used to race a TC3 years ago.... Just had my first race with a used TC6. I looked over the car and rebuilt the shocks with 40wt oil. Was a handful to drive! Remove the rear sway arm..... Helps a bit.
Talk to Shaun Mac and Gene..... They suggest raising my roll center from 0B to 3B. Did the rear first...... Reset droop and RH...... Pushing like a truck. Did the same To the front..... Much better! Can actually drive the car with some aggressiveness. Finally have the tires barking!

Now........ Trying to get my head around what I did........ I thought raising the roll center would stiffen the suspension and decrease traction??? It did the opposite...... Made it tighter in the turns and more stable in the straight :-D
Raising the roll center (arm blocks) will LOWER the amount of roll (rotational force) applied to the tires. So, going from 0B to 3B all around will produce less of this force. It doesn't actually "stiffen" the suspension. It seems like in most typical conditions, a car will like a given arm mount (say 0B all around) and you tune with the other options, like the upper link, droop, shocks, etc......

There are always a number of things..... certain grip levels, different tires, layouts, track conditions that affect it... even driving style to a certain degree.

Going up to 3B won't necessarily take away traction..... in fact I've had issues with traction rolling and actually going down to 0B with more droop fixed it, because of how it loaded the tires and controlled those forces. It's all about mechanical grip and weight distribution

I have noticed 3Bs all around on the 6 can work well in low grip if you are a point-n-shoot kind of driver.

If I am wrong on anything, please chime in and correct me!
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:48 PM   #5100
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Raising the roll center (arm blocks) will LOWER the amount of roll (rotational force) applied to the tires. So, going from 0B to 3B all around will produce less of this force. It doesn't actually "stiffen" the suspension. It seems like in most typical conditions, a car will like a given arm mount (say 0B all around) and you tune with the other options, like the upper link, droop, shocks, etc......

There are always a number of things..... certain grip levels, different tires, layouts, track conditions that affect it... even driving style to a certain degree.

Going up to 3B won't necessarily take away traction..... in fact I've had issues with traction rolling and actually going down to 0B with more droop fixed it, because of how it loaded the tires and controlled those forces. It's all about mechanical grip and weight distribution

I have noticed 3Bs all around on the 6 can work well in low grip if you are a point-n-shoot kind of driver.

If I am wrong on anything, please chime in and correct me!

Thanks very much for the help....... I have never understood roll center and last weekend made it worse...... Any suggestions or comments are appreciated
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