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Old 12-09-2011, 08:07 AM   #4981
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
3mm if it is what I think you need to do, ie, inner hinge pins in wishbones.
Thanks. I noticed some arms didn't move freely, some had slop, and some were fine. I'll double check the hinge pins too.
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:15 AM   #4982
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I had an outer hinge pin that was machined about .50-.65mm too small, and caused a ton of play with the caster block. Otherwise, all of the arms in my kit were perfect!
interesting, i had the same issue, but i figured the previous owner just used the wrong hinge pin
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:52 PM   #4983
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Default Pinion interference with belt problem

Hello,

I've read through about half of this thread and did a couple of searches. I was unable to find an answer to my problem

Im using Robinson racing pinions on a trinity revtec. My problem is the pinion hits the belt no matter which way I install it. Set screw toward the motor and set screw away from the motor.

When the set screw is away, the grub screw looks like it will catch the belt teeth, but the spur and pinion line up nice.

When the set screw is toward the motor it looks like the side of the belt will rub against the pinion. Also, the pinion does not line up very well with the spur. I think the reason is, the flat portion of the motors armature does go far enough toward the motor.

The only thing I can think to do is put some spacers or washers between the motor and the motor mount. But that doesnt feel like the right thing to do.

What am I missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Anthony
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:07 PM   #4984
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I was going to get the Revtech for my TC6 as well, but Trinity's rotors do not have a flat spot all the way to the motor endbell. You can fix this by dremeling or filing the flat spot closer to the endbell.

I ended up getting a Reedy Sonic instead of doing this mod. So far I'm happy with the Sonic.
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:59 PM   #4985
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I had the same problem with my Fantom racing motors. What I found was the flat on the motor shaft was not machined far enough down the shaft. Using a dremel with a cut-off wheel, carefully continue the flat as close to the motor can as possible. This will allow the pinion to be installed with the set-screw toward the can, and will clear the belt and line up properly with the spur.

There is a hole in the chassis that allows access to the set-screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyN View Post
Hello,

I've read through about half of this thread and did a couple of searches. I was unable to find an answer to my problem

Im using Robinson racing pinions on a trinity revtec. My problem is the pinion hits the belt no matter which way I install it. Set screw toward the motor and set screw away from the motor.

When the set screw is away, the grub screw looks like it will catch the belt teeth, but the spur and pinion line up nice.

When the set screw is toward the motor it looks like the side of the belt will rub against the pinion. Also, the pinion does not line up very well with the spur. I think the reason is, the flat portion of the motors armature does go far enough toward the motor.

The only thing I can think to do is put some spacers or washers between the motor and the motor mount. But that doesnt feel like the right thing to do.

What am I missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Anthony
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:33 PM   #4986
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post

You can try slightly more toe-in. And make sure the slipper spool is TIGHT. Depending on the class you are racing, you can tone down the motor so that it does not spin the tires as easily.
I'm running X-12 Stock Spec 13.5t
I tried adjusting the toe today with 2x2mm spacers on rear mount and 1x2mm front mount on the rear bulk head to create more toe in but it stillseem to be real tailey in rear, slipper is tight, only other thing is it's a low traction traction track, so i shorten the wheel base and dropping the arm mounts to the lower hole on bulk head.

HELP
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:48 AM   #4987
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I'm running X-12 Stock Spec 13.5t
I tried adjusting the toe today with 2x2mm spacers on rear mount and 1x2mm front mount on the rear bulk head to create more toe in but it stillseem to be real tailey in rear, slipper is tight, only other thing is it's a low traction traction track, so i shorten the wheel base and dropping the arm mounts to the lower hole on bulk head.

HELP
how much droop do you run Jamie ? also whats oil and springs do you run,

im wondering if my CMR/Feilding setup would work.

ed
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:58 AM   #4988
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and tyres? heat + treatment?
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:20 AM   #4989
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how much droop do you run Jamie ? also whats oil and springs do you run,

im wondering if my CMR/Feilding setup would work.

ed
Droop is 5mm front and rear
Springs Gold front silver rear
40wt oil
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:21 AM   #4990
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and tyres? heat + treatment?
Tyres are sorex 32r

and no treatment we dont run it here
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:29 AM   #4991
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You could try silver front and green rear, piston 2 with 40 front 35 rear.

or try the Reflex springs and either 1,1,1.5 reflex piston or Losi 56.

You could maybe raise the rear droop to 5.3/5.5

You could also move back to position 3 instead of 7 but you need a shorter link. (has it was on TC5)
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:01 AM   #4992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyN View Post
Hello,



When the set screw is toward the motor it looks like the side of the belt will rub against the pinion. Also, the pinion does not line up very well with the spur. I think the reason is, the flat portion of the motors armature does go far enough toward the motor.

The only thing I can think to do is put some spacers or washers between the motor and the motor mount. But that doesnt feel like the right thing to do.

What am I missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Anthony
just dremel a flat spot closer to the bearing on the same side of the exisiting flat spot and your all set. The material grinds down easily and makes life alot easier when your setting the gear mesh.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:06 AM   #4993
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Originally Posted by cneyedog View Post
just dremel a flat spot closer to the bearing on the same side of the exisiting flat spot and your all set. The material grinds down easily and makes life alot easier when your setting the gear mesh.
With a ReVtech motor and Trinity/Epic pinions, I didn't need to extend the flat spot on the shaft. They are shorter than the other brands of pinions I have. Keep that in mind plus the gold looks badass.

On low traction, I usually find softer springs with low roll centers to make the best grip, along with 2 gear diffs..... think 0B or 3A all around, with silver/green. Some guys are running blue/green here to keep the car a bit flatter, with about 2mm uptravel/droop all around. Gold/silver is a pretty stiff combination......

My friend has a "point and shoot" driving style, and he is typically as fast as me. He always makes a ton of grip on low bite (where as I'm usually faster on high bite). This is because all of his high-speed driving is in a straight line. I think he's running 1B/0B front, 1B/1B rear with 14.5/13.5 springs...... he likes a spool up front. Might be worth a shot......
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:00 PM   #4994
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Originally Posted by ScottyTC4NZ View Post
Droop is 5mm front and rear
Springs Gold front silver rear
40wt oil
i run 45 up frount on silvers and 40 in the rear on silvers

with 5mm ride hight and 2mm droop on both ends.

works well up here

if you pm your email address i can send you my setup if you like

Ed
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:45 PM   #4995
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Good evening

yesterday i want to my local track to end the setting of my new tc6

i run a low grip track n the car was really amazing
i use the down arm holes

i replace the plastic spacer fittings arms by the alloy spacers the car is really more pleasant on track

i run a ztw 120 A with xerun 4.5T
24 / 87 on 48 dp


here after some pics of my car
good evening
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