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Old 12-01-2011, 04:09 PM   #4906
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
I know that cleaning putty works so I would use that to begin with. But I am going to begin working with thick oil because I think it could be more consistent from diff to diff.
Starting with something around 500k?
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:11 PM   #4907
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Has anyone calculated out the amount of toe when using the 12r5 shims?
0.83mm per degree of toe in
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:24 PM   #4908
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I must say I am very pleased with the car, I've been running the car for 4 weeks now and have put the car on the pole and first every week! That is until this Saturday.

I had what I thought was a pretty mild crash, moved the motor enough to just barely strip a spur. Long story short the car ended up with a major tweak, so bad I couldn't even race the car that day(crash was in practice)


So as the car sits now i can assemble the rear of the car(bulkheads only) and install the top deck the chassis ends up with a slight tweak. If i install the front bulkheads and install the screws for the topdeck, the chassis ends up with a real bad tweak.

I've done everything to get the tweak out of the car, and it will not straighten out. Even to the extent of fliping the topdeck and using button heads to fasten the top deck and at that point the car bows the center of the chassis.

So at this point I am ordering all new bulkheads for the car.

So is this what I should expect from this car?
So my saga continues, as I said I ordered all new aluminum for the car to ride the chassis of the horrible weak it had.

Today the new parts arrived, I carefully went through and replaced ALL of the hardware and bulkheads on the car. with excitement I went through and carefully ran down all the screws to begin tightening up the chassis and topdeck.

Then laid the car on my Hudy setup board. and the car is just as bad as it was before replacing all of the parts and hardware on the car.

Just out of curiosity I placed the car on a piece of glass to ensure the board I am using is flat. I ended with the same results.

I also tried the Lowes do it yourself fix for the tc6 and flipped the topdeck and used button heads to fasten the topdeck. still tweaked.

So where do I go from here????? do i spend another 75$ on a new chassis and topdeck to try to fix this????

Will associated really be that helpful if i give them a call??

What would you do???
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:32 PM   #4909
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I commented on this in my first post on your problem... Is the chassis straight by itself? If so, then odds are very high that the top deck itself is the problem. Yeah, it sucks to replace things that aren't broken. But luckily, the top deck is only ~$15.

Im not sure AE can do anything for you... it's not like these parts had issues out of the box. You got in a wreck and tweaked something.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:38 PM   #4910
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Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly View Post
So my saga continues, as I said I ordered all new aluminum for the car to ride the chassis of the horrible weak it had.

Today the new parts arrived, I carefully went through and replaced ALL of the hardware and bulkheads on the car. with excitement I went through and carefully ran down all the screws to begin tightening up the chassis and topdeck.

Then laid the car on my Hudy setup board. and the car is just as bad as it was before replacing all of the parts and hardware on the car.

Just out of curiosity I placed the car on a piece of glass to ensure the board I am using is flat. I ended with the same results.

I also tried the Lowes do it yourself fix for the tc6 and flipped the topdeck and used button heads to fasten the topdeck. still tweaked.

So where do I go from here????? do i spend another 75$ on a new chassis and topdeck to try to fix this????

Will associated really be that helpful if i give them a call??

What would you do???
Placing the chassis on a flat board (I assume this is what you mean) is not a good way to check the tweak of the chassis. The TC6 chassis is very thin which may allow screw heads to protrude. Any protruding screws will make the chassis rock and appear tweaked. Because you did not change the chassis, it is possible that the same protruding screw is messing up your readings. Both my TC6 race cars are tweaked using this method.

A better way to check is to use setup blocks on your flat board. Place them just in front of the central bulkhead screws making sure that the car is placed on carbon fiber and not on screws (which may protrude slightly and again mess you up). It is best to check without electronics installed to get the most accurate reading.

If the car is still tweaked then it is time to loosen one top deck screw at a time until the chassis flattens. If one screw causes the problems it is likely a problem with the top deck. AE will replace it for you free of charge if it is defective.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:50 PM   #4911
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Placing the chassis on a flat board (I assume this is what you mean) is not a good way to check the tweak of the chassis. The TC6 chassis is very thin which may allow screw heads to protrude. Any protruding screws will make the chassis rock and appear tweaked. Because you did not change the chassis, it is possible that the same protruding screw is messing up your readings. Both my TC6 race cars are tweaked using this method.

A better way to check is to use setup blocks on your flat board. Place them just in front of the central bulkhead screws making sure that the car is placed on carbon fiber and not on screws (which may protrude slightly and again mess you up). It is best to check without electronics installed to get the most accurate reading.

If the car is still tweaked then it is time to loosen one top deck screw at a time until the chassis flattens. If one screw causes the problems it is likely a problem with the top deck. AE will replace it for you free of charge if it is defective.
Thank you Rick, there is no real difference in the results i receive. I must also restate that I did try a different topdeck with the same results I have now. I have come to the conclusion that it is the chassis that is causing the misalignment.

Thank you for your well explained answer Rick!!
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:28 PM   #4912
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Is it acceptable to use a SpecR gear diff on the front and an associated gear diff on the rear? Will that change anything?
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:58 PM   #4913
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Yes, that is how Juho's car was at ATS. They are both 40 tooth pulleys.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:51 PM   #4914
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Anybody notice that the new gear diff is narrower than the ball diff, I had to add 15 thou of shims to get reduce of the end float. And yes my new gear diff is deformed as well.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:58 PM   #4915
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Hey everyone, I was just getting ready to buy the TC6 when I started watching this thread. I'm glad I saw that the 6.1 is coming out before I bought it. However, I've been watching closely and haven't noticed any specific release date. I've seen "December" but does anyone know more specifically? My wallet is burning a hole in my pocket
The LHS I get parts from is expecting it on the 15th as of yesterday.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:34 PM   #4916
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I don't know why people buy associated cars anymore?

their quality is crap
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:51 AM   #4917
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I don't know why people buy associated cars anymore?

their quality is crap
I don't know why YOU post here ?
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:10 AM   #4918
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because people have been complaining about deformed gear diffs....
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:14 AM   #4919
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Originally Posted by captain stacker View Post
because people have been complaining about deformed gear diffs....
Yes i've read.
I've received two perfect gear diffs. Sh... always happen... But AE have a great support and they change bad parts for free.

Last edited by S_fender; 12-03-2011 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:22 AM   #4920
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Received two perfect AE gear diffs
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