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Old 11-28-2011, 09:52 PM   #4846
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The screws can bend too..
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:13 PM   #4847
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Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly View Post
I must say I am very pleased with the car, I've been running the car for 4 weeks now and have put the car on the pole and first every week! That is until this Saturday.

I had what I thought was a pretty mild crash, moved the motor enough to just barely strip a spur. Long story short the car ended up with a major tweak, so bad I couldn't even race the car that day(crash was in practice)


So as the car sits now i can assemble the rear of the car(bulkheads only) and install the top deck the chassis ends up with a slight tweak. If i install the front bulkheads and install the screws for the topdeck, the chassis ends up with a real bad tweak.

I've done everything to get the tweak out of the car, and it will not straighten out. Even to the extent of fliping the topdeck and using button heads to fasten the top deck and at that point the car bows the center of the chassis.

So at this point I am ordering all new bulkheads for the car.

So is this what I should expect from this car?
Being new to onroad racing and first time out getting used to the absolute responsivness of the car, I encountered a horrific crash. Bent both front right inner suspension block screws, broke front a arm, front body post, and C-Hub, but no chassis or bulkhead damage. Would recommend possibly new set of kit screws, as they may bend fairly easy if you hit something at speeds and will "tweak" the platforms overall setup. Absolutely enjoy driving this car, now that I am used to its performance characteristics and very pleased with it each time I get to put it on the track. Hope you are able to get it figured out without too much more cost.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:34 PM   #4848
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
I just added Andrew Abbott's setup from his second place finish at the Australian Nationals. Looks like a great low to medium traction setup.

Andrew Abbott - 2011 Australian Nationals

Yes Andrew had a very good car and seemed very happy with the performance.
Just take note though, the chassis and top deck he used was aftermarket and he was also trying some funky things with the arms and the mounting of the arms. His car was quite different to a standard car.

I ran almost a standard TC6 with a couple of Reflex racing parts on it.
My lap times were the same as Andrews but my driving is not as good as Andrews. He is a very consistent quick driver. So I have attached my setup sheet as well which should be a great starting point for lowish grip Asphelt.
I finished in 7th place. The difference between 2nd to 9th was very small.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf WCMRC 20.11.11 Nationals1.PDF (468.2 KB, 145 views)
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:43 PM   #4849
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Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly View Post
Exactly my issue. And recent excuse for a lot of fresh hair loss, and large hole in my checking account.

25$ a piece for bulkheads, 11$ a pieces for spur mounts, 11$ for the motor mount and 4$ for the L bracket.

That is where my frustration comes in as none of the parts appear bent but obviously are. So the only for sure solution is to replace with new and hope.

Maybe someone from associated will chime in and be generous to a person that has sold multiple car kits in his area based on how great I said the car is.
Your're not seriously asking a manufacturer to help you out with free parts because you damaged your car are you?
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:08 PM   #4850
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I played around with a diff up front a week ago on carpet, and in the end I thought the spool was better. The diff will rotate a lot in the middle, but you give up entry and exit to do it, and in the end I got a slower laptime with a less precise feeling out of the car. I was running oil in my diff (500k), maybe a putty diff with a tighter feeling would be better (and this is what you see if its not a spool, putty diff), but putty tends to be a little less consistent than oil so you have to keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the reply may just have to try both and see how it goes seems like its really a trade off either way you go. It did seem like i could turn in better than anyone else but i couldnt stay in as tight to the pipe as everyone else could.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:59 PM   #4851
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Originally Posted by Jonesy112 View Post
I have been running mine for right at a year, and I only had one issue with bent bulkheads once, and it was a HARD impact straight to the back when I was running a 4 turn mod motor on a 200ft straight. clipped the inside wall and backed it in at the end of the straight without slowing down. To be honest it was such a hard hit im surprised it only bent the bulkheads

I havent seen anyone else have an issue with bending them, so I dont think it is an issue with this car (any more than it would be with any other car)

If your motor mount is bent for sure, its possible it bent all four bulkheads. It may have been a harder hit than you thought, or just caught at the right angle to cause some unlikely bending of the components.
been there, did it, got a T-Shirt

Well, had bent bulkheads twice- One when a young kid thought its a good idea to set his car on the fast straight on our race track just in front of my TC6 approaching on full Throttle running Modified 4,5T and the second time when I had a very optimistic turn-in point at the end of the same straight that kicked me in the wall backwards.

Both crashes been very hard .



Well, if I had crashed that hard with my previous car (HB TCX) I would have needed way more than a Bulkhead.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:09 AM   #4852
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Originally Posted by FrankH View Post
been there, did it, got a T-Shirt

Well, had bent bulkheads twice- One when a young kid thought its a good idea to set his car on the fast straight on our race track just in front of my TC6 approaching on full Throttle running Modified 4,5T and the second time when I had a very optimistic turn-in point at the end of the same straight that kicked me in the wall backwards.

Both crashes been very hard .



Well, if I had crashed that hard with my previous car (HB TCX) I would have needed way more than a Bulkhead.
I like this phrasing....sounds much better than turned in too soon lol. Ill have to remember this for next time i do this (which wont be too long from now im sure)
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:47 AM   #4853
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Originally Posted by Jonesy112 View Post
I like this phrasing....sounds much better than turned in too soon lol. Ill have to remember this for next time i do this (which wont be too long from now im sure)


Well, I also could say :

First I ran out of Talent, then out of Track
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:33 AM   #4854
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Originally Posted by FrankH View Post


Well, I also could say :

First I ran out of Talent, then out of Track
Awesome!
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:57 PM   #4855
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Would someone mind sending me a part number for the shims your using to widen out the wheel trac? Thanks
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:23 PM   #4856
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Would someone mind sending me a part number for the shims your using to widen out the wheel trac? Thanks
Associated Part # 4617... those are the 12R5 aluminum bulkhead shims.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:27 PM   #4857
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Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly View Post
Exactly my issue. And recent excuse for a lot of fresh hair loss, and large hole in my checking account.

25$ a piece for bulkheads, 11$ a pieces for spur mounts, 11$ for the motor mount and 4$ for the L bracket.

That is where my frustration comes in as none of the parts appear bent but obviously are. So the only for sure solution is to replace with new and hope.

Maybe someone from associated will chime in and be generous to a person that has sold multiple car kits in his area based on how great I said the car is.
Have you tried re-assembling the car with the chassis totally bare, other than the front/rear bulkheads and the top deck?

It is very possible that the top deck itself is what is tweaked.

FWIW, I was never able to run the car with the top deck oriented as suggested in the kit, ie: using the countersunk holes/screws. This always resulted in a slight tweak at the right-rear corner, no matter what I did. Flipping the top deck and using flat head screws(with a washer underneath to spread the load) resulted in a perfectly flat car.... and that is how Ive been running it ever since.
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:42 PM   #4858
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Originally Posted by HVFracingwilly View Post
Here is a picture of the alignment of the front bulkhead to topdeck, remember the rear of the car is tight and straight to the best of my ability.
I see you checked the alignment of the mounting points for the top deck with what should be the simplest method but you should keep in mind that the TC6 uses a thinner chassis than most and is quite compliant. Since it is only about 2mm thick, the screw heads tend to protrude from the bottom of the chassis. When you are checking or correcting for tweak, you should always use riser blocks to eliminate the potential of the screw heads effecting the outcome. Another issue you may be having is that one or more of the screw locations have been damaged. One possibility is that the graphite is not completely flat around some of the screw holes which can tilt the bulkhead. The other would be that since the chassis plate is so thin, one or more of your screws could be bottoming out on the bulkhead without properly making contact with the graphite. Take a 90 degree countersink and create an indentation at each of the screw locations on each bulkhead that make contact with the chassis plate and top deck. this will allow a little clearance for the taper on the screws.

I think you have a unique problem here and it is very difficult to resolve without having the chassis in person.
Good luck!
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:44 PM   #4859
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post

FWIW, I was never able to run the car with the top deck oriented as suggested in the kit, ie: using the countersunk holes/screws. This always resulted in a slight tweak at the right-rear corner, no matter what I did. Flipping the top deck and using flat head screws(with a washer underneath to spread the load) resulted in a perfectly flat car.... and that is how Ive been running it ever since.
And may I ask? Do you think that is acceptable workmanship on AE's part? Why should you have to jury a 400 dollar kit to make it work properly?
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:54 PM   #4860
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Originally Posted by Davin View Post
And may I ask? Do you think that is acceptable workmanship on AE's part? Why should you have to jury a 400 dollar kit to make it work properly?
Why don't you ask Associated instead? He just did what he needed to do to make the car straight, he wasn't being an apologist for bad workmanship.
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