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Old 11-24-2011, 12:12 AM   #4771
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Originally Posted by Kody View Post
Yea its a solid style spool with plastic cups. If I'm not mistaken its lighter then the slipper spool.

K
thanks, that spool is welcomed, along with the gear diff. I'm currently locked up tight on the spool, but feel its not 100% locked up and may be losing those precious few inches coming out of turn hard on the throttle. I have heard of guys using sandpaper as the slipper pad to prevent slippage, but thats just too much work for me

This new car will get me back in the game
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:33 AM   #4772
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
thanks, that spool is welcomed, along with the gear diff. I'm currently locked up tight on the spool, but feel its not 100% locked up and may be losing those precious few inches coming out of turn hard on the throttle. I have heard of guys using sandpaper as the slipper pad to prevent slippage, but thats just too much work for me

This new car will get me back in the game
Thats not that hard work



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Last edited by jorgesimes; 11-24-2011 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:21 AM   #4773
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Thanks for all the up to date info Rick!
did Juho using double join instead of AE CVA in front during ATS?
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:53 AM   #4774
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Still being new to Onroad, after a minor front camber change at practice session yesterday, my TC6 is on pace with local fast guys. They are currently running foam tires on asfault, whereas I am using rubber tires. They still have an edge in/out of turns, but I am very pleased with the TC6.
*Would it help or hinder (handling or tire wear) adding ?mm spacer to the front upper C-Hub camber link ball location? Appreciate any assistance provided.
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:58 AM   #4775
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*Would it help or hinder (handling or tire wear) adding ?mm spacer to the front upper C-Hub camber link ball location? Appreciate any assistance provided.
How much mm do you have and what's your camber link position? For me the best feeling i got was with 7 camber position and 2mm with silver ballstud in the c-hub.
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:35 AM   #4776
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This is just something I started with to play around with and it worked well. I previously used my typical TC6 setup "converted" to the new car and it worked equally well. With a new car we are trying some new things that may or may not be better in the long run but are more in line with what other cars use. The object is to make the car easier to drive fast for the majority of the drivers using it.

Juho's ATS setup shows 3A all around.
Expanding on that, I noticed Juho was also using the short camber links, front and rear. And the new "Baseline setup" for the TC6.1 is using the short links... just as you and Keven's WCRC and Timezone setups are.

Is this just an evolution in setup? ie: You guys are now finding that the short front links are quicker in some cases.

Or is the fact that the short front links are now working directly related to the new TC6.1 suspension plastics?
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:32 AM   #4777
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The instruction manual says that as a "Racers Tip" you should ca the inserts in place for the c hub and rear upright.
I'm wondering why have inserts ?
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:46 AM   #4778
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I was thinking exactly the same. I don't see the benefits of inserts when I have to glue them.

On other cars you just insert them and they stay there.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:54 AM   #4779
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I think the thought behind that was just a dab of CA to keep the insert held while doing maintenance, but little enough that you can break the bond pretty easily if you are trying to.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:55 AM   #4780
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I suspect you dont have to glue them... but CAing them will probably reduce suspension slop slightly. *dunno*
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:12 AM   #4781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
How much mm do you have and what's your camber link position? For me the best feeling i got was with 7 camber position and 2mm with silver ballstud in the c-hub.
I have it in the #7 hole, currently running 1.5* front camber, and no spacers under front ball stud on top of C-Hub. I hope not to loose intital and midcorner steering, but see many setups using 2mm ball stud spacer.
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Last edited by rangerjkb; 11-24-2011 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:16 AM   #4782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker View Post
what's the story with the new spool? Is it solid, unlike the current slipper pad design?
It is solid. But unlike the original TC5 solid spool this one captures the blade.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Expanding on that, I noticed Juho was also using the short camber links, front and rear. And the new "Baseline setup" for the TC6.1 is using the short links... just as you and Keven's WCRC and Timezone setups are.

Is this just an evolution in setup? ie: You guys are now finding that the short front links are quicker in some cases.

Or is the fact that the short front links are now working directly related to the new TC6.1 suspension plastics?
I actually prefer the long link in front. Using the short links is just a way to try and find more speed. The standard Tc6 setups converted for use on the 6.1 will work great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
The instruction manual says that as a "Racers Tip" you should ca the inserts in place for the c hub and rear upright.
I'm wondering why have inserts ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dennisV View Post
I was thinking exactly the same. I don't see the benefits of inserts when I have to glue them.

On other cars you just insert them and they stay there.
You do not necessarily have to glue them. One of the main reasons for inserts is so that racers and dealers don't have to stock 3-4 different parts. Instead you only need one part in your box that can be configured how you want it to be.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:29 PM   #4783
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Rick,

What is the goal of AE to have more rigid arms ?

It is nice to see the TC6 moving into TC6.1.....
A new car for chrismas !!!!

Regards.
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:32 PM   #4784
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I have too much rear grip, especially off power. I've put on a harder rear roll bar, 14.5 rear spring, less front droop, more rear droop, moved rear shock out 1 hole, slightly stiffer rear shock oil, reduce rear toe in, forward 1 hole ackermann. Goop the whole front tyre. Funny enough none of the changes made much difference, if any.

I do have 6 degree caster block on, only cos they were the only ones I have as spares at the time. Should I go back to 4's?

What would be my next step, regarding roll center changes or any other changes? I don't have the correct length turnbuckles for front link changes though....

lengthen rear camber link?

I'm bit dumb with car setup

Last edited by hacker; 11-24-2011 at 02:51 PM. Reason: added more changes
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:24 PM   #4785
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I think it would be better to just reduce the caster on the rear axle. Maybe a total of .5 - 1.0 mm less shims under the rear armmounts would make your car turn better.
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