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Old 11-13-2011, 03:12 PM   #4531
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Originally Posted by wcalaker View Post
Thanks Olly. i will probably change them around when i install the electrics.

I must say i love how the car feels compared to my TC5. Definitely a lot less slop with the new turnbuckles. Shocks are awesome..not sure how much the Reflex parts helped but they are silky smooth. Cant wait to get it on the track.

I go to a place that has medium bite carpet. I started off with Olly Jefferies' (not sure if you are the same Olly, im assuming)setup on the Assoc website. That looks like it will get me close.

Thx

Drew
Good hope you enjoy your racing, and no, I am not the same Olly, my fingers are a little bit stiffer

Did you drill a 1mm hole in top of shock too? Reflex springs feel really smooth alright, I use Losi pistons in mine.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:56 PM   #4532
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is anyone running gear diffs front and rear in the tc6? if so what weight oils...I run on a medium bite carpet track and was curious what a gear diff up front vs..spool would do---seems like I get a lot of chatter at full lock with the spool, hoping to take some of that away
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:28 PM   #4533
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Originally Posted by brian cox View Post
is anyone running gear diffs front and rear in the tc6? if so what weight oils...I run on a medium bite carpet track and was curious what a gear diff up front vs..spool would do---seems like I get a lot of chatter at full lock with the spool, hoping to take some of that away
I am. 500k in the front, 80wt AE shock oil rear (or 1000cst)...... As long as you prep the tires right and have a good setup, it makes the car MUCH easier to drive, especially in lower grip conditions.

Very smooth in the sweeper. I even run 6* caster blocks and loads of steering, and the car stays planted.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:02 PM   #4534
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Be sure to blue loctite the threads on the servo saver spring nut or it'll back off. Just happened to me on my blinky car last night...straight into the wall in the sweeper.
So pretty funny. I was reading all these posts about the servo saver. Thought you all were crazy as I have been driving my TC6 for almost a year and never had the issue.

Guess what? Today the nut came off, lost my steering and wham-o hello boards.

Blue loctite the screw.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:44 PM   #4535
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Update TC6 wins in Mod sedan and 17.5
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:43 AM   #4536
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Hi. Thinking of upgrading from ball to the AE gear diffs once I find it in the online hobbyshops in HK. Is it also advisable to change the stock slipper spool of the TC6 to a gear diff as well? If yes, how will it improve the handling of the TC6? TIA
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:16 AM   #4537
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Update TC6 wins in Mod sedan and 17.5
SWEET.

I'd be curious to see the 17.5 setup!!!
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:21 AM   #4538
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Update TC6 wins in Mod sedan and 17.5
And story what was changed due racing event on tc6/modified winner :-)

Tires, setup, changes to made it better.

Regards and good luck!
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:58 AM   #4539
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speaking of screws... do you guys use a longer screw for the rear arm mounts on the rear bulkhead? the manual calls for 14mm for all arm mounts, but the rear in particular usually has 4 deg total in spacers and the the screw has less threads screwed into the bulkhead. i'm afraid that it will strip if someone rear ends me hard enough.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:09 AM   #4540
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speaking of screws... do you guys use a longer screw for the rear arm mounts on the rear bulkhead? the manual calls for 14mm for all arm mounts, but the rear in particular usually has 4 deg total in spacers and the the screw has less threads screwed into the bulkhead. i'm afraid that it will strip if someone rear ends me hard enough.
Just use longer ones, they should go little more then bulkhead, I have cut long screws and my go off 1mm.

They are fine when use with hex 2.5mm

Regards!
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:09 AM   #4541
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Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
speaking of screws... do you guys use a longer screw for the rear arm mounts on the rear bulkhead? the manual calls for 14mm for all arm mounts, but the rear in particular usually has 4 deg total in spacers and the the screw has less threads screwed into the bulkhead. i'm afraid that it will strip if someone rear ends me hard enough.
Yes. It's common practice to replace ALL of the mount hanger screws so that they go all the way through the bulkhead. I prefer long enough to have about 1mm of protrusion. Use the ProTek brand of high strength screws from Amain, they're the same as the Associated high quality screws at less than 1/2 the price.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:24 AM   #4542
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Thanks guys. I'm about to place an order, are the protek 16mm long enough or should I go with the 18mm? The 18mm does not come as a button head, only caphead.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:32 AM   #4543
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5) some motors have an issue where the flat spot on the shaft doesn't extend far enough toward the motor bearing which can cause a poor alignment with the spur gear. D3 motors are like this. You will have to grind, file or machine the flat to about 1mm from the bearing face in order to have enough movement.
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Ditto this.

If you are not so inclined to dremel/machine your rotor shaft... The combination of the Xray 64p offset spurs and a pinion with a short body(such as the Robinson and RW 64p pinions) will work as well on the Epic/Trinity motors.
Does the Revtech 17.5 have this same problem?
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:20 AM   #4544
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Absolutely drilled the boards a few times this weekend.
Not sure what people are talking about when they say this car is not durable.?

Handling is disturbingly good ,fast and consistent. .3-.4 variance in several heats.

Where's that gear diff Baby?!

Dave.
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:04 PM   #4545
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Heard from an insider that they arrive in Germany this week. So must be in the U.S. sooner or later...
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