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Old 11-07-2011, 07:06 AM   #4471
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Thanks, it is a well done and full of setups tips for everyone, maybe you should put this as a separate post if it does not exist yet.

I am trying to get my son to understand all the in and out of setups so that he can look after his car a bit more himself now and give me a break
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:18 AM   #4472
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tom do you suggest getting a full ss screw kit or the ae one for the entire car?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-TC6-Screw-Set

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...less-Screw-Kit

is it even worth it trying to put ti screws all around or where neccesay or just go with ss?
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:06 AM   #4473
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tom do you suggest getting a full ss screw kit or the ae one for the entire car?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-TC6-Screw-Set

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...less-Screw-Kit

is it even worth it trying to put ti screws all around or where neccesay or just go with ss?
I've had no problems with the aluminum screw kit, and it'll shave up to 25 grams off the car........ Unless weight is no issue. The stainless steel screws look really good!
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:27 AM   #4474
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I've had no problems with the aluminum screw kit, and it'll shave up to 25 grams off the car........ Unless weight is no issue. The stainless steel screws look really good!
Are you using the aluminum screws everywhere? Im hesitant to use them to mount the suspension bulkheads to the chassis... or in the big load bearing areas, like the motor mount bulkhead , etc.
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:55 AM   #4475
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I use Tony Screwz, no problems. Use them on all my cars
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:59 AM   #4476
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A must read. Elvo is Dutch/Belgian (we run combined here, because of the two small countries ) 2WD Offroad champion 2011. Good guy and the url is a niceeee read Applicable for on and offroad .
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:18 AM   #4477
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The parts that are supplied make the car good right out of the box. But the following are what I suggest once you get the car up and running:

#31286 Ball stud washer - To achieve most setups and can be used for arm spacing.
#4617 Bulkhead shims - To replace plastic clip spacers.
#31558 6 deg caster block - To achieve some setups.
#1401 Turnbuckles - To use camber link in the shock tower setups.
#31262 Silver anti roll bar set - To achieve some setups.

To race non boosted stock classes you will probably also need a smaller spur gear.
Just to clarify, you mean I can use the part below to replace the 31198 arm mount shims on both the front and rear bulkheads, correct?

#4617 Bulkhead shims - To replace plastic clip spacers.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:07 PM   #4478
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Are you using the aluminum screws everywhere? Im hesitant to use them to mount the suspension bulkheads to the chassis... or in the big load bearing areas, like the motor mount bulkhead , etc.
Yes, everywhere.... including the motor mount, bumper, and lower bulkhead screws. They don't back out on me or anything. I think a lot of racers don't pay attention to how much torque they apply to the screws. These aren't lug nuts on a car --- just get it snug! I have not stripped a head on any screw, either. I also haven't had issues with any screws that I used blue Loctite on

I only use 2 steel screws on the whole car...... the ones threading into the motor
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:01 PM   #4479
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Just to clarify, you mean I can use the part below to replace the 31198 arm mount shims on both the front and rear bulkheads, correct?

#4617 Bulkhead shims - To replace plastic clip spacers.
those work great angelo see you this sunday
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:07 PM   #4480
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those work great angelo see you this sunday
thanks warren, your setup was dialed yesterday and perfect for a newbie like me. i won the c main, lol. there was a d main in 17.5 blinky yesterday .

also, your buddy jerry L was very helpful and helped me start off my onroad career.
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:37 PM   #4481
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There are socket head cap screws available in 2.5mm and I would suggest replacing the button head screws with these as they use a 2mm hex instead of the stock 1.5mm hex. Mine came loose and even lost one during the RROC. It created a ton of confusion until I found that it was missing the next day. My RCScrewz kit had the cap heads in it from another car and haven't had a problem since, no thread locker needed.
I dont think anyone has had this problem as worse as mine. Saturday, i bought my car, brought it home and started installing my spur gear. Tried to pull the shaft out. Screw 1 on the right side came out with ease. The second one, i managed to round off my hex wrench, so i tried the ball side. Worse to my luck, it snapped, jammed and rounded out the screw. Even worse to my luck, i dont have a dremel. The previous user (The guy i bought it off didnt use it) Put Threadlock in every screw making it extremely hard to remove any screw. It is now tuesday, and i am still trying to figure out a way to get this out.

Any suggestions as how i could fix this would be very welcome
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:03 PM   #4482
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new to the car, experienced driver anything thing i should be aware of when looking my car over(used)?
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:32 PM   #4483
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I use Tony Screwz, no problems. Use them on all my cars
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:34 PM   #4484
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I dont think anyone has had this problem as worse as mine. Saturday, i bought my car, brought it home and started installing my spur gear. Tried to pull the shaft out. Screw 1 on the right side came out with ease. The second one, i managed to round off my hex wrench, so i tried the ball side. Worse to my luck, it snapped, jammed and rounded out the screw. Even worse to my luck, i dont have a dremel. The previous user (The guy i bought it off didnt use it) Put Threadlock in every screw making it extremely hard to remove any screw. It is now tuesday, and i am still trying to figure out a way to get this out.

Any suggestions as how i could fix this would be very welcome
Remove the right side bulkhead that traps the spur shaft (two screws on bottom, one screw on top deck). You then need to loosen the belts enough (remove front and rear diffs/spool) to slide out the spur assembly.

The best way to remove pesky screws is a screw extractor and some heat. You should be able to find a screw extractor kit at a good tool store. The extractor is based on a reverse thread head which bites into the damaged screw and then twists it out.
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:37 PM   #4485
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Are you using the aluminum screws everywhere? Im hesitant to use them to mount the suspension bulkheads to the chassis... or in the big load bearing areas, like the motor mount bulkhead , etc.
Check out www.hexcrews.com.. The Armour plated screws are awesome along with their magnetic pit mats!!!
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