R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-19-2011, 10:34 PM   #4276
Tech Elite
 
hacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,129
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

PS you can use a stanley knife/blade and run it along the inside edge and it will lift off quite easily. But then you need to leave the seals off, as the seal will most likely deform after you have removed it. And it will most likely touch the inner race now, making the bearing worst off then what you started with.
hacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 10:51 PM   #4277
Tech Elite
 
Odin544's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kennewick, Washington
Posts: 3,166
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hanzo3 View Post
How do you get the rubber seal out of some of the smaller bearings without destroying them? They are so thin. Anyone have a link for cheap bearing replacements? Which bearings need cleaning the most?
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=341&kitname=TC6
Odin544 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 04:48 AM   #4278
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 660
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default Steering knuckles

Hi,

I've heard that some people have their steering knuckles flipped or reversed?

What are the benefits and do you need to place the ballstuds on top rather the underneath the knuckles?

thx!
zzztech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 05:13 AM   #4279
Tech Master
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,152
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Avid all the way. You can do the flex kit, or if they are out of a certain type just order plain metal shielded of each size at $1 a piece. Smooth as Paula Dean's butter.

If you flip the steering knuckle, you almost always flip the ballstud also. This is to adjust bump steer! Turn the wheels and compress the suspension, and notice how as the tire rises it may turn back "out" due to the pull on the steering link. Flipping knuckles and/or shimming the ballstud can correct excessive bumpsteer.
__________________
Stop holding bitterness deep in your bum soul.
cwoods34 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 06:55 AM   #4280
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 660
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
If you flip the steering knuckle, you almost always flip the ballstud also. This is to adjust bump steer! Turn the wheels and compress the suspension, and notice how as the tire rises it may turn back "out" due to the pull on the steering link. Flipping knuckles and/or shimming the ballstud can correct excessive bumpsteer.
Thx! I put the ball stud on top then. Do I still need to put the 1mm blue shim under the stud?

Cheers!
zzztech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 07:18 AM   #4281
Tech Elite
 
hacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,129
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

isn't flipping the uprights for the 6 degree caster blocks only?
hacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 08:14 AM   #4282
Tech Regular
 
racing_jason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Spokane
Posts: 326
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker View Post
isn't flipping the uprights for the 6 degree caster blocks only?
They flip the blocks over (the way they were ran on the TC5) when they are running the 6 degree caster blocks and they run the caster blocks the way the kit comes when running 4 degrees or less caster.
Jason
__________________
Thank you to my sponsors-
Team Associated-Reedy-ProLine-B&B Hobbies Racing
racing_jason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 09:33 AM   #4283
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 365
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Jonesy112
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
Thx! I put the ball stud on top then. Do I still need to put the 1mm blue shim under the stud?

Cheers!
Im running mine with the 6 degree castor blocks, black ballstuds with a 1mm blue shim under the ball stud on the steering arm. This seems to be where its happiest in bump steer land
__________________
Michael Jones

RC America - X-Ray - Team EA Motorsports - RockStar Paint - Apex RC Proshop - ProOne Tires
Jonesy112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 03:16 PM   #4284
Tech Master
 
cwoods34's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Indy-freakin'-ana
Posts: 1,152
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Also consider the front arm mounts. On my mod car I have 3A front/0B back for the front arms with 6* caster blocks. So, due to the angle of the front arms I actually have about 5* caster, which means I might need a different amount of shims compared to flat arms with 6*..... keep that in mind!
__________________
Stop holding bitterness deep in your bum soul.
cwoods34 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 03:54 PM   #4285
Tech Champion
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The dirty burnie
Posts: 5,440
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hacker View Post
isn't flipping the uprights for the 6 degree caster blocks only?
Its for any C-Hub. The car drives much smoother with the knuckles flipped
__________________
Mike Gee

Awesomatix USA/Pyscho Cells Racing/LRP/Sweep Racing/RSD/Middle River Hobbies/Johns Mobile Raceway/TQ Wire/Avid
geeunit1014 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 12:49 AM   #4286
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 389
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Question for for the guys who run their shocks with the 1mm hole in the cap - how do you build your shocks? I'm having a hard time getting the shocks to have the same rebound with the caps drilled. I'm running on a high traction indoor asphalt track (West Coast Raceway) and I'd like to make sure my shocks are performing to their best potential. I know Rick and Steve do very well with their TC6's at WCRC, I'm trying to get my setup that good!
__________________
B5 | B5M | TC6.2
Hobbywing | Savox | Airtronics
RC.Jon22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 01:17 AM   #4287
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC.Jon22 View Post
Question for for the guys who run their shocks with the 1mm hole in the cap - how do you build your shocks? I'm having a hard time getting the shocks to have the same rebound with the caps drilled. I'm running on a high traction indoor asphalt track (West Coast Raceway) and I'd like to make sure my shocks are performing to their best potential. I know Rick and Steve do very well with their TC6's at WCRC, I'm trying to get my setup that good!
I'm pretty sure Rick builds his shocks differently than I do from what I gather from the last time I talked with him about it... but I think his method might be a little easier than mine.

Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.

Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.

Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.

Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.

This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.

I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!

Hope this helps!
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- P1 BRAND -- TUNING HAUS -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 01:59 AM   #4288
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 389
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
I'm pretty sure Rick builds his shocks differently than I do from what I gather from the last time I talked with him about it... but I think his method might be a little easier than mine.

Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.

Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.

Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.

Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.

This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.

I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!

Hope this helps!
Steve, that helps a lot. Thanks for clearing this up for me. Seeing you and Rick dominate the Tuesday night racing has inspired me to practice with my TC6!
__________________
B5 | B5M | TC6.2
Hobbywing | Savox | Airtronics
RC.Jon22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 06:01 AM   #4289
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,756
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
I'm pretty sure Rick builds his shocks differently than I do from what I gather from the last time I talked with him about it... but I think his method might be a little easier than mine.

Generally, fill the shock up with oil with the piston fully extended and ensure that there aren't any air bubbles in the shock... a shock pump is very good for ensuring that you've got as much air out of the shock as possible.

Next, take the bladder and place it on top of the shock and gently press it down so that it seats into the shock... usually I make sure that there's enough oil that durring this step extra oil is displaced by the bladder.

Next, take the plastic shock cap and place it ontop of the bladder... be careful because it's pretty easy to move the bladder around by accident.

Next, carefully slide the aluminum cap over the plastic cap and the bladder and slowly screw the cap down until it's tightened completely.

This should be the easiest way to build your shocks with consistant rebound.

I generally build my shocks in a similar fashion except that before I place the bladder on top of the shock I push the shock shaft up into the shock a bit... with the way these shocks are you can't push it up all the way, so I recommend pushing it up so that there's 3 mm between the shock body and the eyelet... the rest of the proceedure is then the same!

Hope this helps!


You can also try pulling the shock shaft out after installing the bladder, this will help seat the bladder.
Josh Hohnstein is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 10:50 AM   #4290
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

What front hexes fit the TC6? Im looking for offset hexes to space the front wheels a bit.... Id prefer not to use the 1mm disc spacers.

I see that some of the factory guys are using what appears to be some sort of black plastic hex on the front. Anyone know what part this is?

JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Associated TC5 RCknight Electric On-Road 13254 05-12-2017 07:58 AM
THE TRACK RACEWAY Apex Mid Atlantic RC Racing 28952 05-01-2017 04:47 AM
Team Associated TC6 KostaG Electric On-Road 8 07-04-2010 11:42 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:13 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net