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Old 10-10-2011, 10:38 AM   #4126
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:11 AM   #4127
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Default Spec-R geardiff for TC6

I hear of and see all kinds of mishaps with this geardiff.
I'm thinking of ordering one but now I am a bit shy to do so.

Could someone explain to me, step by step, how to get this geardiff working perfectly?

I hear and read about different ways to do so. Lot to do about sanding, grease, slime and what not. I can't follow anymore. Going to look on youtube also, think there is an instructionvideo?
I looked at that and there is nothing about leakage and how to prevent that.
The building in the video goes just smooth. There is nothing in it about applying product(s) to provide leakage.

I compared a lot of setupsheets of TC6 on some websites. As I understand it on low grip tracks you need to go with thin(ner) diffoil and on high grip tracks thick(er) oil. On the setupsheets I analysed there not all of that consistancy as to the used thicknes of the geardiffoil. I also see thin oil on high grip tracks and thick oil on medium to low grip tracks. For me that doesn't add up. It is contrary of eacht other.

I try to find a common denominator for using geardiff oil. Like thin(ner) oil on under low grip conditions and thick(er) oil under high grip conditions. What best to use in both cases. And yes, I understand there is not one golden rule that tackles all.

Last edited by Kensei; 10-10-2011 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:42 AM   #4128
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Originally Posted by Fodarr View Post
This may be a noob question, but how do you mount the ballstud in position 3 on the rear tower? do i use nuts on the back side? I think i noticed a few extra blue lock nuts left over..
Thanks
Yep as WTCC said, but the original turnbuckles will be too long, you need either: shorten the actual ones but then you cannot use then on hole 7 anymore or get new ones in 35mm
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:32 PM   #4129
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Could someone explain to me, step by step, how to get this geardiff working perfectly?
Here's the instructional video straight from Spec-R. I built their diff this way and it worked well last season. The first couple of runs slung a little extra fluid/grease that was on the outside of the diff, but it was fine after that.

I used AE Black Grease on the X-Rings. That's a common sealant on 1/8th scale gear diffs as well. Works well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1PfllEfx3A
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:11 PM   #4130
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy View Post
ya the notches were matched up on the two case halves..
What notches?

I have been racing the past weekend with a spek r gear diff, and no leaks or otherwise problems.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:21 PM   #4131
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Green slime on the gasket will help. I don't know how much you filled the diff, but you only need to fill it up to halfway on the gears, any more and it's almost gauranteed to leak.
I just built/ran the SpecR gear diff this past weekend. And I have to agree with this.

I rebuilt mine a few times because I thought it kept leaking... but it turns out I was just overfilling it. Do make sure to lube the gasket though.

Also, what I found to be helpful was a bottle of the computer duster(compressed air). After you build the diff, if there is a little excess oil that comes out then use the compressed air to blow that crap off the diff... as it is very difficult to get the excess off with just a rag/shop towel.

After you blow it off, youll be able to see if the oil was A) just excess from filling a bit too much, or B) from the diff truly leaking.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:37 PM   #4132
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Originally Posted by jeppesen View Post
What notches?

I have been racing the past weekend with a spek r gear diff, and no leaks or otherwise problems.
I think he's referring to the "bumps" on the outside of the diff halves. For some reason, they need to be lined up on assembly, although I don't understand why. I've never seen another gear diff that has required that.
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:00 PM   #4133
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
I hear of and see all kinds of mishaps with this geardiff.
I'm thinking of ordering one but now I am a bit shy to do so.

Could someone explain to me, step by step, how to get this geardiff working perfectly?

I hear and read about different ways to do so. Lot to do about sanding, grease, slime and what not. I can't follow anymore. Going to look on youtube also, think there is an instructionvideo?
I looked at that and there is nothing about leakage and how to prevent that.
The building in the video goes just smooth. There is nothing in it about applying product(s) to provide leakage.

I compared a lot of setupsheets of TC6 on some websites. As I understand it on low grip tracks you need to go with thin(ner) diffoil and on high grip tracks thick(er) oil. On the setupsheets I analysed there not all of that consistancy as to the used thicknes of the geardiffoil. I also see thin oil on high grip tracks and thick oil on medium to low grip tracks. For me that doesn't add up. It is contrary of eacht other.

I try to find a common denominator for using geardiff oil. Like thin(ner) oil on under low grip conditions and thick(er) oil under high grip conditions. What best to use in both cases. And yes, I understand there is not one golden rule that tackles all.
First, just for you Kensei, if you add stuff on an existing post we might not see it, just start a new post, it makes life easier.

To try to answer you, each driver will have his own way of racing and prefered setup, for the moment I am using Rick Howard's setup and work from there to make it my own setup, for my style of driving, then there is the issue that a track with medium grip could end up to be a track with very good grip when you have yor tyres treated and warmed, it also depends on which tyre is used (a controlled or open tyre) and then there is the issue of where you are running your car, don't forget that all these setups are for competition racing, the box setup is very good to start with if you are only parking lot racing.

So to recap, an oil to start with would be in my opinion 50/60 wt, then work from there if you get better grip, put a thicker oil, the wt and csd ratings are not the same too, so watch a setup with a 1000 csd could be similar to 80 wt (if I can remember, i only use wt personaly)

hope this clears a few of your questions? it is a little confusing at first but you will master the technic fairly quickly, just don't stress about it
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:16 PM   #4134
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
You do green slime on the gasket?
I worked in black grease on the gasket with my fingers, has not leaked yet. I used the same gasket after it leaked the first time. First cleaned it with motor cleaner.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:20 PM   #4135
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So the first time I mounted the servo I followed this advice here with the thin card under the servo. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ips/index.html

I remounted it but just pushed the servo down flat to the chassis. and now the servo horn just clears the top deck.

Could be the KO servo has a slightly thicker case therefor raising the centerline of the servo just enough to touch the top deck. I plan to tear the car down and go through it, as I bought it used and would like to make sure its 100% together the right way. When I do that I'll take a closer look at the servos I have and see if one is slightly thinner than the other.
I did the card recommendation as well, servo horn was hitting top plate so I just removed some material off servo horn. Didn't even think it was because of the height added of the card. oh well
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:22 PM   #4136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fodarr View Post
This may be a noob question, but how do you mount the ballstud in position 3 on the rear tower? do i use nuts on the back side? I think i noticed a few extra blue lock nuts left over..
Thanks
yes, you need the nuts. There were 4 extra blue ones.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:47 PM   #4137
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Default Spec-R geardiff

Quote:
Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
First, just for you Kensei, if you add stuff on an existing post we might not see it, just start a new post, it makes life easier.

To try to answer you, each driver will have his own way of racing and prefered setup, for the moment I am using Rick Howard's setup and work from there to make it my own setup, for my style of driving, then there is the issue that a track with medium grip could end up to be a track with very good grip when you have yor tyres treated and warmed, it also depends on which tyre is used (a controlled or open tyre) and then there is the issue of where you are running your car, don't forget that all these setups are for competition racing, the box setup is very good to start with if you are only parking lot racing.

So to recap, an oil to start with would be in my opinion 50/60 wt, then work from there if you get better grip, put a thicker oil, the wt and csd ratings are not the same too, so watch a setup with a 1000 csd could be similar to 80 wt (if I can remember, i only use wt personaly)

hope this clears a few of your questions? it is a little confusing at first but you will master the technic fairly quickly, just don't stress about it

Thanks. This helps! The thing that strikes me though is that when I look at petitrc.com for TC6 setupsheets they almost all use thinner oil on low and medium tracks, even 35wt and 40wt. In some setupsheets I even see this thin oils on tracks with higher grip. A bit contradictionary to me. But anyways, I'll try something.

By the way: Sang from Spec-R says that their geardiff should be leakfree just with using the diffoil/grease. And the youtube-video doesn't mention leakage also. But hey, that might be commercialtalk.
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Old 10-11-2011, 01:35 AM   #4138
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My Spec-R diff was built as per instructions with a 1000cps oil,works flawlessly and doesn't leak at all. Didn't even thought about having the need to use green slime.
The new TC6's differential i got included the new graphite gears instead of Delrin ones, i wander what's the difference between the two matherials.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:12 AM   #4139
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Originally Posted by sandsurfer View Post
I did the card recommendation as well, servo horn was hitting top plate so I just removed some material off servo horn. Didn't even think it was because of the height added of the card. oh well
Had the same issue, so also just trimmed the servo arm down. Would rather do that than have a tweaked chassis.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:38 AM   #4140
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Originally Posted by SkarTisu View Post
I think he's referring to the "bumps" on the outside of the diff halves. For some reason, they need to be lined up on assembly, although I don't understand why. I've never seen another gear diff that has required that.
If the 2 mold halves are not perfectly symmetrical about centerline then it's entitely possible it may fit better one way then the other (seal better). Just eliminate the possibility and do it.
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