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Old 10-09-2011, 09:02 PM   #4111
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I've got hundreds of screws, that's not a big deal, the turnbuckles are the disappointing thing. All the adjustments in the world on this car, and they don't include the proper turnbuckles to use them.

Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.

I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
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Old 10-09-2011, 10:50 PM   #4112
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I've got hundreds of screws, that's not a big deal, the turnbuckles are the disappointing thing. All the adjustments in the world on this car, and they don't include the proper turnbuckles to use them.

Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.

I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
The long camber links are for using hole #7 for the inner camber link position (which is what the stock setup calls for). Even if they gave you a little bit shorter link to use with positions 1,3,5; you still need an even shorter link to use with positions 2,4,6. I actually have 3 different size camber links made up to use with different setups depending on where I want to mount the inner portion of the camber link.
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:10 PM   #4113
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Well ran the gear diff this weekend. Seems to work pretty good. The only issue I have is that the diff leaked out a majority of the fluid. It leaked between the two diff halves.

Any idea what I need to do to seal it up properly?
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:23 PM   #4114
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Well ran the gear diff this weekend. Seems to work pretty good. The only issue I have is that the diff leaked out a majority of the fluid. It leaked between the two diff halves.

Any idea what I need to do to seal it up properly?
You do green slime on the gasket?
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:29 PM   #4115
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What kind of Ko servo are you using. I cannot imagine a 1/10th servo being that high as the arm would touch the top deck, all servo arms are the same lengh in kit.
So the first time I mounted the servo I followed this advice here with the thin card under the servo. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ips/index.html

I remounted it but just pushed the servo down flat to the chassis. and now the servo horn just clears the top deck.

Could be the KO servo has a slightly thicker case therefor raising the centerline of the servo just enough to touch the top deck. I plan to tear the car down and go through it, as I bought it used and would like to make sure its 100% together the right way. When I do that I'll take a closer look at the servos I have and see if one is slightly thinner than the other.
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:55 AM   #4116
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You do green slime on the gasket?
No I didnt put anything on the gasket. Just dry
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:44 AM   #4117
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No I didnt put anything on the gasket. Just dry
Did you make sure the little notches are matching too?
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:47 AM   #4118
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Originally Posted by TD-Ent View Post
I've got hundreds of screws, that's not a big deal, the turnbuckles are the disappointing thing. All the adjustments in the world on this car, and they don't include the proper turnbuckles to use them.

Kinda like not including the battery tape straps to hold in a lipo, gotta buy that separately as well.

I'll just get out the dremel and hack the ends off I guess.
As explain, because the position 7 is used on the TC6 (not on TC5) if you had the same lengh as TC5 turnbuckles they would not reach position 7, hence the longer ones, true it is stupid not to have shorter ones in kit to fit other positions when you buy it, around 7$ for 35mm ones thought...
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:57 AM   #4119
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
So the first time I mounted the servo I followed this advice here with the thin card under the servo. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ips/index.html

I remounted it but just pushed the servo down flat to the chassis. and now the servo horn just clears the top deck.

Could be the KO servo has a slightly thicker case therefor raising the centerline of the servo just enough to touch the top deck. I plan to tear the car down and go through it, as I bought it used and would like to make sure its 100% together the right way. When I do that I'll take a closer look at the servos I have and see if one is slightly thinner than the other.
I find personaly that the servo mounts are on the wrong side (if this makes sense) they are basically too long and you end up with servo too far forward with servo link having too much angle, true some long servo would be hanging out from chassis and could be damaged in collision if Tboned, but I see more and more short servo being used, I have one myself on the way as I want to change my servo position, this way, my servo arm won't be under the top deck anymore. Ideally would be servo post square like little towers, screwed on bottom of chassis as the ones used now but with a rearer position and being fixed by upper screws only (one on each top position of servo and a bit of double tape on bottom of servo/chassis for more strengh) some people just double tape their servo to chassis, and it works with the right product (but NEVER EVER Superglued)
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:01 AM   #4120
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A few weeks ago I actually cut the center out of the rear shock tower to help generate more rear grip. I like my cars to have a ton of steering, but was losing rear grip on the low traction carpet we run, so I cut it and it actually works very well.

When I go to big races, I need to put a stock shocktower back on the rear to when grip levels are high, but the cut one works great on club racing where the track layout is changed often.
Can you put a picture please?
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:13 AM   #4121
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
I find personaly that the servo mounts are on the wrong side (if this makes sense) they are basically too long and you end up with servo too far forward with servo link having too much angle, true some long servo would be hanging out from chassis and could be damaged in collision if Tboned, but I see more and more short servo being used, I have one myself on the way as I want to change my servo position, this way, my servo arm won't be under the top deck anymore. Ideally would be servo post square like little towers, screwed on bottom of chassis as the ones used now but with a rearer position and being fixed by upper screws only (one on each top position of servo and a bit of double tape on bottom of servo/chassis for more strengh) some people just double tape their servo to chassis, and it works with the right product (but NEVER EVER Superglued)
If you guys are having clearance issues with the stock servo mounts, buy XRAY ones. They are thinner and you can shim the servo on either side. I agree, the stock mounts are a bit thick unless the gear side of your servo is very flat.

If you have a steady hand or drill press, you could always make your own servo mount holes a bit further away.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:58 AM   #4122
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Did you make sure the little notches are matching too?
ya the notches were matched up on the two case halves..
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:13 AM   #4123
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy View Post
ya the notches were matched up on the two case halves..
Green slime on the gasket will help. I don't know how much you filled the diff, but you only need to fill it up to halfway on the gears, any more and it's almost gauranteed to leak.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:21 AM   #4124
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yep fill to the cross bar level only
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:22 AM   #4125
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This may be a noob question, but how do you mount the ballstud in position 3 on the rear tower? do i use nuts on the back side? I think i noticed a few extra blue lock nuts left over..
Thanks
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