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Old 09-23-2011, 09:41 AM   #3916
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
You get it by shimming the inner hinge pin blocks. There are instructions and shim charts in the assembly manual.
the inner hinge pin u mean the a-arm where the inner hinge pin. i need to have 2.5 toe in
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:01 AM   #3917
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the inner hinge pin u mean the a-arm where the inner hinge pin. i need to have 2.5 toe in
you need to put the 8 shape spacers behind the blocks that hold the inner hinge pins, page 9 of manual, parts 31198 "arm mount shim" you have the thickness on bottom left of page 9

Usually 3 is better, more stable than 2.5 but it depends on your track.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #3918
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Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
Well, since I don't own the kit and have a very good running TC, I'll wait for the Associated release instead paying for upgrades before I even build. Chances are one designed for the car and tested on that chassis will be better in the long run.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:28 AM   #3919
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Many Thanks for all the guidance.

Regards

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I am wondering if you guys can help.

Just working out on everything possibly needed to make the switch to the TC6, am I am lead to believe there is a mod on the diffs that you do in turms of the screw, using one from one of there offroad cars. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and if possible what parts number(s) are needed for this.


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Old 09-23-2011, 11:35 AM   #3920
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Well, since I don't own the kit and have a very good running TC, I'll wait for the Associated release instead paying for upgrades before I even build. Chances are one designed for the car and tested on that chassis will be better in the long run.
I would not necessarily say the AE will be better, the SPEC R diffs were good enough to win the world's last time around and they are readily available now. The TC6 diff from Spec R was also designed for the TC6, and it has a proven, winning design. This whole "because AE makes it is better" is not valid in today's RC World. There are a ton of aftermarket companies that make parts better than what AE offers.

I for one have them in my TC and LOVE them.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:42 AM   #3921
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Ok folks, I'm starting to get my ride together since the new indoor track in my area is opening up soon. The previous owner of the car set the car up using Jeff Cuffs' 2011 Roar Nats setup, however my track will be an ozite track, with Sweeps tires most likely being the spec tire for 17.5 non boosted. I think I will keep it at this setup and go from there, since it's my first time onroad anyway.

Does anyone have any good Tekin RS setups for 17.5 non boosted? I checked the Tekin site and they did not have too many. I'll be using a Novak Ballistic 17.5 and LTC-R body. I believe I will be starting at 72/37 48p gearing. Any tips/tricks for an onroad noob?
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:55 AM   #3922
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Basically in non-boosted you just set the ESC up to your personal driving style. I liked throttle profile 4, around 6-10 for neutral width, and depending on the layout I would run either 0 or around 30 drag brake.

Most motors just go max timing and start around a 4.0 final drive and check temps. On flowing layouts I've gone down to 3.6 without heat issues, but I didn't need to use brakes on these layouts. Hope this helps!
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:13 PM   #3923
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I would not necessarily say the AE will be better, the SPEC R diffs were good enough to win the world's last time around and they are readily available now. The TC6 diff from Spec R was also designed for the TC6, and it has a proven, winning design. This whole "because AE makes it is better" is not valid in today's RC World. There are a ton of aftermarket companies that make parts better than what AE offers.

I for one have them in my TC and LOVE them.
Do you think there is any advantage to running these in 17.5 non boosted? It seems a lot of people are excited about the gear diff but I'm not quite sure what to expect as far as a performance upgrade. So far the slipper spool/ diff has been trouble free but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:31 PM   #3924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
Do you think there is any advantage to running these in 17.5 non boosted? It seems a lot of people are excited about the gear diff but I'm not quite sure what to expect as far as a performance upgrade. So far the slipper spool/ diff has been trouble free but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks
In the front, it is kind of track layout dependent. Some layouts the gear diff is faster, some the spool is, and some they are the same. Typically tracks with more 180's, the gear diff can be quicker, but again, you loose a bit of your on power traction to get you out of the corner. Some claim the gear diff makes the car easier to drive when installed in the front end. Lap times is all I would worry about. What is giving you the best, most consistent laps? I am pretty sure this is exclusive to each driver.

In the rear, a gear diff is a must. Even in low grip conditions, from my testing, the gear diff is usually about 1-3 tenths quicker per lap on average. I think that if you are an above average to advanced driver you should see the same results, so long as your fluid is right inside your diff. Typically asphalt I like 50-60 wt AE (CST 650-750) and on carpet 800-1000 CST. My settings typically make the gear diff feel like a ball diff, where I don't like my car to over-rotate when on power. I know there are people that like to rotate the car with throttle, I like to get the rear end to stick really hard on power as I am hard on throttle.

As for if they make a difference in Blinky, I would say so. The gear diff installed in the rear just allows the car to shoot out of the corner much, much harder and in blinky, where power is limited any bit of extra acceleration that you can get is a big help.

As for set-ups on Blinky, Cody is right. All you are really worried about is how the throttle is applied as well as your dead band and brakes. Throttle profile 4 makes the power band feel punchier, and drag brakes are really motor dependent. Some motors need drag brakes and some others don't.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:53 PM   #3925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I would not necessarily say the AE will be better, the SPEC R diffs were good enough to win the world's last time around and they are readily available now. The TC6 diff from Spec R was also designed for the TC6, and it has a proven, winning design. This whole "because AE makes it is better" is not valid in today's RC World. There are a ton of aftermarket companies that make parts better than what AE offers.

I for one have them in my TC and LOVE them.
same here if the spec r diffs are built correctly they will last a long time plus the new gears are just about bullet proof i tested them in a 14.4 volt drill and basicly stalled the drill and did not break the gears.I run a special compound in my front gear diff that makes it basicly a spool but still has slight movement and doesnt change under temperature i used it a the nats with great success and will be selling it under the weavernator motorsports banner,it is not clay based like most are using now and it never has to be rebuilt,and cristians products are second to none i use his springs only on my tc6 and they are very accurate.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:29 PM   #3926
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my $0.02 is that I like a well built (no slip) ball diff. in the back. It just seems eaiser to drive where as with the gear diff. and light oil (80wt assoc.) when I hit the throttle on corner exit it feels as if I don't know in which direction the car is going to go. Could be a setup thing. Anyway that's what I feel.
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:04 PM   #3927
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
my $0.02 is that I like a well built (no slip) ball diff. in the back. It just seems eaiser to drive where as with the gear diff. and light oil (80wt assoc.) when I hit the throttle on corner exit it feels as if I don't know in which direction the car is going to go. Could be a setup thing. Anyway that's what I feel.
Your diff oil is too heavy. 80wt oil is not very light, it is around the same as 1000cst. Try like a 50wt oil and you will like it a lot more. You seem to like the same diff feel that I like as this describes exactly what I felt with heavier diff oil. The car will feel like a well set up ball diff is installed and the lap times should improve.
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:19 PM   #3928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
In the front, it is kind of track layout dependent. Some layouts the gear diff is faster, some the spool is, and some they are the same. Typically tracks with more 180's, the gear diff can be quicker, but again, you loose a bit of your on power traction to get you out of the corner. Some claim the gear diff makes the car easier to drive when installed in the front end. Lap times is all I would worry about. What is giving you the best, most consistent laps? I am pretty sure this is exclusive to each driver.

In the rear, a gear diff is a must. Even in low grip conditions, from my testing, the gear diff is usually about 1-3 tenths quicker per lap on average. I think that if you are an above average to advanced driver you should see the same results, so long as your fluid is right inside your diff. Typically asphalt I like 50-60 wt AE (CST 650-750) and on carpet 800-1000 CST. My settings typically make the gear diff feel like a ball diff, where I don't like my car to over-rotate when on power. I know there are people that like to rotate the car with throttle, I like to get the rear end to stick really hard on power as I am hard on throttle.

As for if they make a difference in Blinky, I would say so. The gear diff installed in the rear just allows the car to shoot out of the corner much, much harder and in blinky, where power is limited any bit of extra acceleration that you can get is a big help.

As for set-ups on Blinky, Cody is right. All you are really worried about is how the throttle is applied as well as your dead band and brakes. Throttle profile 4 makes the power band feel punchier, and drag brakes are really motor dependent. Some motors need drag brakes and some others don't.
Thanks, this is the exact type of detail I was looking for .
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:38 PM   #3929
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sorry to read of all your probs but i had extra hardware with my kit and no issues at all and as for the receipt issue a duplicate shouldn't be a problem from the retailer you purchased it from.....
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:42 PM   #3930
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
you need to put the 8 shape spacers behind the blocks that hold the inner hinge pins, page 9 of manual, parts 31198 "arm mount shim" you have the thickness on bottom left of page 9

Usually 3 is better, more stable than 2.5 but it depends on your track.
hi olly but i already have 3 mm shims on the rear mount on the rear of the car when i put the car together by the setup sheets so how do i get the 2.5 toe total i hope u understand this
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