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Old 09-12-2011, 03:33 PM   #3751
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I am .....
I like your wire job

What is final weight of your car?

Regards!
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:14 PM   #3752
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Default Setup ?

I am looking for an easy to drive setup for 17.5 med. traction, soda water, outdoor temp @ 70*. I think Norcal is like our track. Thanks
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:42 PM   #3753
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I like your wire job

What is final weight of your car?

Regards!
read my entire post....LOL, I am not at all claiming that wire job, I was complimenting it.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:47 PM   #3754
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Here is a picture on how I like to wire my car. I used to blacken everything out, but I like to use the original wires and cut them to length. Nice and neat. Remember folks, bench race'n is part of the hobby too!

Mike
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:28 PM   #3755
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I am looking for an easy to drive setup for 17.5 med. traction, soda water, outdoor temp @ 70*. I think Nocal is like our track. Thanks
Id start with Cuff's setup from nats, its posted on AE's site
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:43 PM   #3756
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Originally Posted by shoe View Post
I am looking for an easy to drive setup for 17.5 med. traction, soda water, outdoor temp @ 70*. I think Nocal is like our track. Thanks
Also Rick's 13.5 setup was spot on for 17.5... I changed the rear drop 1/8th of turn (lengthen or more screw down) for the track, but that was it.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:57 AM   #3757
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier View Post
read my entire post....LOL, I am not at all claiming that wire job, I was complimenting it.
Right! My mistake ...
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:47 AM   #3758
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What motor screws do you guys use? The stockers? I like to run the lunsford screws in my offroad vehicles, but it looks like the flange on it will be too large for the TC6's motor mount.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:28 AM   #3759
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What motor screws do you guys use? The stockers? I like to run the lunsford screws in my offroad vehicles, but it looks like the flange on it will be too large for the TC6's motor mount.
Kit screws
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:27 PM   #3760
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Does anyone know (team drivers specifically) how many grams are shaved off switching from the steel screws to the new FT aluminum screws? I need to slim my car down just a bit. Looks like the screw kit is $40-$50 depending on place, and just wanted some numbers before I dropped the money on it.

Also, does anyone know if the upcoming gear diffs can handle mod motors?
It was 24g for me. But I only did the top off the car. I keep the steel in the button off the car
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:36 PM   #3761
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It was 24g for me. But I only did the top off the car. I keep the steel in the button off the car
This was my idea as well... I am a bit nervous about using aluminum screws in the load bearing portions/bulkheads that secure the suspension/drivetrain to the chassis.

However, I was wondering if using aluminum screws in the top deck would change the flex vs using the kit steel screws?

Also, does anyone have any thoughts on using Titanium screws in the load bearing portions to save weight but still retain some of the hardness/durability of the steel screws?
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:26 PM   #3762
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This was my idea as well... I am a bit nervous about using aluminum screws in the load bearing portions/bulkheads that secure the suspension/drivetrain to the chassis.

However, I was wondering if using aluminum screws in the top deck would change the flex vs using the kit steel screws?

Also, does anyone have any thoughts on using Titanium screws in the load bearing portions to save weight but still retain some of the hardness/durability of the steel screws?
I replaced every kit screw in my TC5 with titanium screws and never had a problem. And I raced and crashed the car hard
So there is no problem using titanium screws!
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:38 PM   #3763
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Default TC6 Shock cap holes, 1mm

*** I just realized that these are pictures of a TC5 shock cap. Sorry about that, I'll get pictures of the TC6 caps shortly! (too many different cars on the bench at one time) ***

In another thread, someone asked for pictures of 1mm holes drilled in the shock caps. Thought you all might also find it useful. Match this with the RSD bladders, zero rebound!





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Last edited by Buckaroo; 09-14-2011 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:58 PM   #3764
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In another thread, someone asked for pictures of 1mm holes drilled in the shock caps. Thought you all might also find it useful. Match this with the RSD bladders, zero rebound!
Where they this RSD bladders?

Also I hate ae tc6 shocks ... this ae bladder sucks, old ones was much better and easy to build

Regards!
m,
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:30 PM   #3765
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Where they this RSD bladders?

Also I hate ae tc6 shocks ... this ae bladder sucks, old ones was much better and easy to build

Regards!
m,
Click here for the RSD thread. Honestly, I haven't had any trouble with the stock TC6 bladders, but the RSD ones are more supple than the stock ones. Drill the hole and use the RSD bladders for a true zero rebound. Add the machined 1,1,1.5 pistons, and they're smooth as butter.

Oh, and enough green slime and they don't leak, either.
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