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Old 09-11-2011, 07:15 PM   #3736
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For my 5.5 Novak on a larger carpet track, I was using a 115 spur with a 20-22 pinion, putting my final drive from 10.00 to 10.45 or so. I also had a bit of boost on the 5.5.........
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:17 PM   #3737
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Does anyone know (team drivers specifically) how many grams are shaved off switching from the steel screws to the new FT aluminum screws? I need to slim my car down just a bit. Looks like the screw kit is $40-$50 depending on place, and just wanted some numbers before I dropped the money on it.

Also, does anyone know if the upcoming gear diffs can handle mod motors?
Im pretty sure rick ran mod on the gear diffs but dont qoute me on that?????
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:21 PM   #3738
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I know Keven uses them in the back and a slipper spool up front, but I had a gear diff up front in my T3 in 10.5 boosted and it drove great, VERY easy to drive.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:12 PM   #3739
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Is there any eta on the gear diffs?
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:27 AM   #3740
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Default WIRING question

I am relatively new to the onroad scene fellas. I knew coming into onroad from offroad that weight, tolerances etc are more important than running 1/8 stuff. Not that it isn't important, but I know I must pay a little more attention to detail running 1/10 scale onroad. That being said, I am working on installation of my electronics. I have chosen the Tekin RS Pro ESC, 10.5T Tekin motor, and a Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital "High Speed" Metal Gear Servo. I have a Mylaps xponder mounted on the front bumper, but I dont like how the wire comes close to the drive train. But, here is a photo of a pretty clean installation I found on Google of a TC6 and its electronics.

My question is, it looks like the wires for his electronics are all custom. Does anyone know how he did this? I mean, how would you open the transponder and rewire it? I like how all the wires are curled and tucked away, and I know that having the shortest wires decreases extra weight. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

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Old 09-12-2011, 08:49 AM   #3741
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Does anyone know (team drivers specifically) how many grams are shaved off switching from the steel screws to the new FT aluminum screws? I need to slim my car down just a bit. Looks like the screw kit is $40-$50 depending on place, and just wanted some numbers before I dropped the money on it.

Also, does anyone know if the upcoming gear diffs can handle mod motors?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Little John View Post
Im pretty sure rick ran mod on the gear diffs but dont qoute me on that?????
The gear diffs can easily handle mod motors. They do not break and do not leak. My guess is that people will be doing whatever they can to make this gear diff work in their non-AE cars.


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Is there any eta on the gear diffs?
We are pushing for the IIC/early October.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier View Post
I am relatively new to the onroad scene fellas. I knew coming into onroad from offroad that weight, tolerances etc are more important than running 1/8 stuff. Not that it isn't important, but I know I must pay a little more attention to detail running 1/10 scale onroad. That being said, I am working on installation of my electronics. I have chosen the Tekin RS Pro ESC, 10.5T Tekin motor, and a Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital "High Speed" Metal Gear Servo. I have a Mylaps xponder mounted on the front bumper, but I dont like how the wire comes close to the drive train. But, here is a photo of a pretty clean installation I found on Google of a TC6 and its electronics.

My question is, it looks like the wires for his electronics are all custom. Does anyone know how he did this? I mean, how would you open the transponder and rewire it? I like how all the wires are curled and tucked away, and I know that having the shortest wires decreases extra weight. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
These wires were likely curled by the user by wrapping them around a hex wrench shaft. This is how I used to do it back in the day. Some drivers will Sharpie the wire to make them black.

You can open the electronics and shorten the wires. Sometimes this is simple and sometimes it is difficult. But doing this means that use in other vehicles is no longer possible.

You can also shorten the wires by installing a new plug. You can buy new female pins and crimp them on.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:50 AM   #3742
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A lot of people use a black sharpie to color their wires, or if they go through the pain of opening components and changing the wires to black (TQ Wires), then they usually make them custom length, too.

Those coils are done by wrapping the wires tightly around a screwdriver shank tightly, then keeping them coiled when plugged in.

Not worth the effort trying to save a little weight by shortening wires, since most current chassis require ballast weight to make minimum weight in racing classes anyway.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:52 AM   #3743
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im not sure how he changed out the wires for all black ones with the ESC and Servo, but in an attempt to clean mine up, i went to my LHS and bought a pack of new servo wire plugs and the special crimper tool. Then I but the servo and ESC leads to length, and installed a new plug on the end. This leads for a pretty clean look. Although if its not too difficult, I would like to do this as well as switch out the wires for all black ones. Then I would be content with my wiring lol
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:04 AM   #3744
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Sweet, can't wait for them

I've used both Sharpies and black paint pens to color wiring. To coil it, I found it easiest to wrap it around a driver like others have said and heat them up. I'll hold my soldering iron near them for 30-60 seconds (like you are heating shrink-wrap) and it turns out nice.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:06 AM   #3745
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yeah, it is clean. I am diggin this onroad stuff
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:47 AM   #3746
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Hi all, just saw on SpecR website gear differential set:

Spec-R Gear Differential Set 40T(For Associated - TC6)
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:53 AM   #3747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier View Post
I am relatively new to the onroad scene fellas. I knew coming into onroad from offroad that weight, tolerances etc are more important than running 1/8 stuff. Not that it isn't important, but I know I must pay a little more attention to detail running 1/10 scale onroad. That being said, I am working on installation of my electronics. I have chosen the Tekin RS Pro ESC, 10.5T Tekin motor, and a Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital "High Speed" Metal Gear Servo. I have a Mylaps xponder mounted on the front bumper, but I dont like how the wire comes close to the drive train. But, here is a photo of a pretty clean installation I found on Google of a TC6 and its electronics.

My question is, it looks like the wires for his electronics are all custom. Does anyone know how he did this? I mean, how would you open the transponder and rewire it? I like how all the wires are curled and tucked away, and I know that having the shortest wires decreases extra weight. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

Hi you can curl the wires neatly and effectively around a hex driver/screwdriver, you can blackout all the wires with a paint pen if the
black/stleath look is what you like.
There are also`crimping tools for servo wires for
re-crimping when they have been shortened.
There is a excellent thread
Inspire us. Show me your BEST, CLEANEST electronics installation pics.

ive got so much from this i've just re wired my first esc
i will post in that thred when its installed
hope this helps
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:54 AM   #3748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger999 View Post
Hi all, just saw on SpecR website gear differential set:

Spec-R Gear Differential Set 40T(For Associated - TC6)

The problem with Spec R gear diffs (for any car) is that they're hit or miss with quality. Mostly miss. Keep spare gaskets and gear sets on hand!
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:50 AM   #3749
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I had one for my T3, and I never had an issue with it. Used oils from 20wt shock oil all the way up to 500k diff oil and it never leaked nor broke. I don't know that the Spec-R could handle mod power, though.
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:11 PM   #3750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justchris View Post
Hi you can curl the wires neatly and effectively around a hex driver/screwdriver, you can blackout all the wires with a paint pen if the
black/stleath look is what you like.
There are also`crimping tools for servo wires for
re-crimping when they have been shortened.
There is a excellent thread
Inspire us. Show me your BEST, CLEANEST electronics installation pics.

ive got so much from this i've just re wired my first esc
i will post in that thred when its installed
hope this helps
Thanks Brother
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