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Old 08-26-2011, 08:31 PM   #3616
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The driveshafts have a tendency to want to straighten when power is applied so with the diffs low there is a greater force lifting or lowering the chassis under power . A typical setting to try is the front diff mid-high to try and increase on-power steering.
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Old 08-27-2011, 07:16 AM   #3617
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More steering, will a one way or a complete ball diff in the front provide more steering?
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Old 08-27-2011, 07:46 AM   #3618
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The driveshafts have a tendency to want to straighten when power is applied so with the diffs low there is a greater force lifting or lowering the chassis under power . A typical setting to try is the front diff mid-high to try and increase on-power steering.
Thank you Rick

I knew you mentioned something about this at one stage, just could not remember where.

Actually I have a question, why does Asso supplies the B cam if no one seem to use them?
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Old 08-27-2011, 07:50 AM   #3619
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More steering, will a one way or a complete ball diff in the front provide more steering?
One way, I would not recommend, I think this is not an option anymore on any chassis.

The way at present is spool (locked) or front gear diff locked (heavy oil or putty)

They both work well, or even a front gear/ball diff
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:14 AM   #3620
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Has anyone converted their steering to a dual-arm setup and turned the servo? If so, what parts did you use? Thought about trying Tamiya or Serpent parts, didn't know if anyone had pics!
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:16 PM   #3621
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Default diff yokomo

The TC6 diff spec-r to Yokomo BD5
What oil should I use for high traction asphalt?
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:38 PM   #3622
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I am contemplating getting my first on road car. I am a dedicated Team Associated RC'r. I have an RC8T Nitro, a RC8T Tekno chassis electric, a RC8B nitro, a SC10-RS, and two RC10 4x4's. My son and I love RC Racing and wrenching.

I was looking at getting the TC6 to start with. It looks like a typical awesome AE car.

Can you suggest some parts (by part number) to have on hand because my hobby shop doesn't really stock much and if I break on race day it is game over. Just a list of some good to have parts and parts that need replacing to keep the car tight and race ready.

Also, I wanted to get a castle creation ESC and motor. but not totally against getting something else. Can you suggest a size because KV and turn is kinda confusing. The track is not huge or anything. I think the avg laptime is around 25 seconds or so. Is a hitec 7940 overkill for the steering? any suggestions, was also considering the Savox.

Also, any very "good to have or really improved hop ups" that are highly recommended?

I am excited to finally give on-road a shot. I thank you in advance.
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:40 PM   #3623
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45wt..i have 1 new and 1 used spec r gear dif if you want them for cheap but i prefer the actual yokomo brand but they cost twice as much almost.
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:48 PM   #3624
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Question for Hohwart or anybody that knows. On his Reedy setup, is he running the steering blocks per the manual with ballstuds down or the flipped setup with ballstuds up? Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:58 PM   #3625
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Originally Posted by zaranza View Post
The TC6 diff spec-r to Yokomo BD5
What oil should I use for high traction asphalt?
Going to run it front or rear?

Be careful of the Spec-R. Hit or miss quality. If you're going to get one, buy at least one extra gasket and service pack of gears, you're 100% going to need them!

The genuine Yokomo diff is expensive, but like most things of quality, it's because it's worth it! In the end, it will last longer than the same cost of Spec-R parts.
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:00 PM   #3626
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Question for Hohwart or anybody that knows. On his Reedy setup, is he running the steering blocks per the manual with ballstuds down or the flipped setup with ballstuds up? Thanks!
Up, but you will have a little smoother feel if you run them down as per the manual. A few pages back he talked about how he was testing something and did not return them per the manual.
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:14 PM   #3627
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier View Post
I am contemplating getting my first on road car. I am a dedicated Team Associated RC'r. I have an RC8T Nitro, a RC8T Tekno chassis electric, a RC8B nitro, a SC10-RS, and two RC10 4x4's. My son and I love RC Racing and wrenching.

I was looking at getting the TC6 to start with. It looks like a typical awesome AE car.

Can you suggest some parts (by part number) to have on hand because my hobby shop doesn't really stock much and if I break on race day it is game over. Just a list of some good to have parts and parts that need replacing to keep the car tight and race ready.

Also, I wanted to get a castle creation ESC and motor. but not totally against getting something else. Can you suggest a size because KV and turn is kinda confusing. The track is not huge or anything. I think the avg laptime is around 25 seconds or so. Is a hitec 7940 overkill for the steering? any suggestions, was also considering the Savox.

Also, any very "good to have or really improved hop ups" that are highly recommended?

I am excited to finally give on-road a shot. I thank you in advance.
What class? 17.5, 13.5 or mod???
Spares, the normal, arms both front and back (Hard) C-hubs, both front and back hubs. On the C-hubs, get a set of 6 degree and 4 degree. Different shock oils for different setups... The real question is what are the fast boys setup for the TC6 at your track? I would strongly recommend Rick's Setup from the National (I have attached it), it is really good on med traction track...

improvements, hope no one gets upset, but i really like the Reflex springs as they are 1lb difference, which is allows for a better tuning with the new weights we have to run.
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:51 AM   #3628
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What class? 17.5, 13.5 or mod???
Spares, the normal, arms both front and back (Hard) C-hubs, both front and back hubs. On the C-hubs, get a set of 6 degree and 4 degree. Different shock oils for different setups... The real question is what are the fast boys setup for the TC6 at your track? I would strongly recommend Rick's Setup from the National (I have attached it), it is really good on med traction track...

improvements, hope no one gets upset, but i really like the Reflex springs as they are 1lb difference, which is allows for a better tuning with the new weights we have to run.
Thanks bvoltz, I see you are from Elgin, Il. I was born near there, Oaklawn, Il. I will place those items in the shopping cart. I asked the local fast guy what his setup is, he said the stock set-up. I kinda don't believe him though . The track we run at don't really care whats under the hood, so a TC6 would be ran under like "1/10 sedan" I assume. Its pretty much "outlaw" class. Local fast guy suggested a 10.5 turn motor. I really want to get a Castle ESC and Motor but I don't know what the equivalent KV measured motor would be. Can you suggest something close to 10.5 turn. Thanks
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:00 AM   #3629
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Question for Hohwart or anybody that knows. On his Reedy setup, is he running the steering blocks per the manual with ballstuds down or the flipped setup with ballstuds up? Thanks!
Most of the top racers use the steering arms like the TC5, arms down, balls up
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:04 AM   #3630
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Thanks bvoltz, I see you are from Elgin, Il. I was born near there, Oaklawn, Il. I will place those items in the shopping cart. I asked the local fast guy what his setup is, he said the stock set-up. I kinda don't believe him though . The track we run at don't really care whats under the hood, so a TC6 would be ran under like "1/10 sedan" I assume. Its pretty much "outlaw" class. Local fast guy suggested a 10.5 turn motor. I really want to get a Castle ESC and Motor but I don't know what the equivalent KV measured motor would be. Can you suggest something close to 10.5 turn. Thanks
1350 approx is 10.5t, I would recommend you get a Hobbywing superstock and 10.5t motor, it is a good combination for price, not mad on castle.

Make sure you get a sensored model anyway.
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