Team Associated TC6 Thread
#3542
Tech Apprentice
lipo mounts ..
has anyone had any problems with the screws pulling throu the chassis on the lipo mounts , someone told me last night that some of the early kits had issues with this ( as the chassis was drilled / counter sunk to much , losing too much material ??? ) i got over it for last nights meeting by moving the lipo to the rearward position , but didnt like it as much , so will order another chassis
has anyone else had any problems ...?? apart from that im loving it !!
has anyone else had any problems ...?? apart from that im loving it !!
#3543
has anyone had any problems with the screws pulling throu the chassis on the lipo mounts , someone told me last night that some of the early kits had issues with this ( as the chassis was drilled / counter sunk to much , losing too much material ??? ) i got over it for last nights meeting by moving the lipo to the rearward position , but didnt like it as much , so will order another chassis
has anyone else had any problems ...?? apart from that im loving it !!
has anyone else had any problems ...?? apart from that im loving it !!
#3544
Just got a new TC6 and am in the process of building it and I have a few questions. All of my turnbuckle eyelets are realy tight, I noticed that they all have a little number on them what is this? and are they supposed to snap on a certain way? Also have a question about a setup that I saw on the associated site by Keven Hebert, I have heard from some of the local guys that some of the setups that he has listed work well at our track most of it is pretty clear to me but don't understand the shock piston set up it says 1,1,1.5 3hole the pistons that came with my car are labeled 1 2 and 3 maybe some one could shead some light on this for.
Thanks
Thanks
#3545
The Evicerator
Just got a new TC6 and am in the process of building it and I have a few questions. All of my turnbuckle eyelets are realy tight, I noticed that they all have a little number on them what is this? and are they supposed to snap on a certain way? Also have a question about a setup that I saw on the associated site by Keven Hebert, I have heard from some of the local guys that some of the setups that he has listed work well at our track most of it is pretty clear to me but don't understand the shock piston set up it says 1,1,1.5 3hole the pistons that came with my car are labeled 1 2 and 3 maybe some one could shead some light on this for.
Thanks
Thanks
Regarding the pistons: They are custom drilled pistons, using the 1/10 blank pistons (# 6463) and a 1.0 mm drill bit and a 1.5 mm drill bit. Two holes drilled out with the 1.0 mm bit and one hole with the 1.5 mm bit.
If that sounds a little too involved, there are a number of setups that sucessfully employ the use of the the stock #2 associated pistons to good effect.
Hope this helps!
#3546
Hi. I got a TC6 and ran it about a couple times at our local track. Since spare parts are a bit hard to come by in my current location, I have been purchasing online either thru HK or US hobby shops and shipped to me. So far I have the following spares:
steering block, caster block, caster block bushing, rear hub, front and rear arms, 64 & 48p spurs, turnbuckle eyelets, CVA blades, and inner hinge pins
I was wondering, aside from these parts that I already got, what other parts should I keep handy? Thanks.
steering block, caster block, caster block bushing, rear hub, front and rear arms, 64 & 48p spurs, turnbuckle eyelets, CVA blades, and inner hinge pins
I was wondering, aside from these parts that I already got, what other parts should I keep handy? Thanks.
#3547
Tech Rookie
Is this ok?
I've build the last week my new tc6. I've had some problems and now i want to know if it's normal:
1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.
2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.
3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.
So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?
1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.
2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.
3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.
So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?
#3548
Tech Fanatic
Hi. I got a TC6 and ran it about a couple times at our local track. Since spare parts are a bit hard to come by in my current location, I have been purchasing online either thru HK or US hobby shops and shipped to me. So far I have the following spares:
steering block, caster block, caster block bushing, rear hub, front and rear arms, 64 & 48p spurs, turnbuckle eyelets, CVA blades, and inner hinge pins
I was wondering, aside from these parts that I already got, what other parts should I keep handy? Thanks.
steering block, caster block, caster block bushing, rear hub, front and rear arms, 64 & 48p spurs, turnbuckle eyelets, CVA blades, and inner hinge pins
I was wondering, aside from these parts that I already got, what other parts should I keep handy? Thanks.
why 64 and 48 spurs? these are not the number of teeth but the size of pitch, usually you use one or the other, otherwise you need to have a lot of different pinions.
You might still break something else but with your spares you will cover all the possible "ordinary"breakages.
#3549
Tech Fanatic
I've build the last week my new tc6. I've had some problems and now i want to know if it's normal:
1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.
2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.
3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.
So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?
1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.
2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.
3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.
So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?
Well i am trying to understand, but it does not make much sense, as none of your mentionned problems seems possible if you built your car properly.
Can I suggest that you take your manual again and go over all your problems one at a time, the shocks are definitely long enough, maybe you are putting the steering post in the wrong hole on bellcrank post insert and your droop will depend on which arm mounts and position you are using.
hope this helps
#3550
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I've build the last week my new tc6. I've had some problems and now i want to know if it's normal:
1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.
2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.
3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.
So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?
1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.
2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.
3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.
So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?
#3551
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
It would be a good idea to purchase a few different length turnbuckles as different setups will require different lengths. You will find having at least 2 different lengths will go a long way for most setups. Buy at least 2 of each. Associated makes several that will fit the TC6.
#3552
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
I am running position (2) in front using a 1.33" #1401 and it's just right. I can get about 1.5* camber max ... anything more and i'll need a shorter turnbuckle...
In the rear I use the same #1401 1.33" and running position (3A) with plenty of engagement for 1-1.5* camber and room for a lot more negative camber...
Steering i use the #1403 1.65" 8B on the rack and 2A on the knuckle/center screw
In the rear I use the same #1401 1.33" and running position (3A) with plenty of engagement for 1-1.5* camber and room for a lot more negative camber...
Steering i use the #1403 1.65" 8B on the rack and 2A on the knuckle/center screw
#3553
ECS's on a TC6
Does anyone sell ecs driveshafts for the tc6 or has anyone gotten another brand working. I had heard a rumor that some people use xray c hubs and then use xray ecs's
#3555
You have it all covered here already, maybe a couple of bearings and screws.
why 64 and 48 spurs? these are not the number of teeth but the size of pitch, usually you use one or the other, otherwise you need to have a lot of different pinions.
You might still break something else but with your spares you will cover all the possible "ordinary"breakages.
why 64 and 48 spurs? these are not the number of teeth but the size of pitch, usually you use one or the other, otherwise you need to have a lot of different pinions.
You might still break something else but with your spares you will cover all the possible "ordinary"breakages.