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Old 08-11-2011, 10:57 AM
  #3496  
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Good to go, Steve. Welcome! You going to Vegas this year??

[QUOTE=Steve Weiss;9511789][QUOTE=Bobert Ross;9509800]

Regarding the shock location on the arm, I felt like the inside position on the arm felt easier/more consistant to drive, yet felt like it pushed in the middle and coming out of the corner... the outside hole in the front arm felt more aggressive but a bit inconsistant in the middle/coming out of the corner, so I decided to try a hole in between... which I feel was easy to drive but still retained consistant steering throughout the entry, middle, and exit of the corner.

Regarding the piston questions:

Yes, that means 3 holes that are the same size, 1.15 mm and "10 mm OD" refers to the outside diameter of the piston which I sanded down from the stock 10.08 mm to 10.00 mm.

I tried the 1,1,1.5 piston and it wasn't bad... but I felt like maybe it had too little low speed pack as it felt like the car stayed dumped over in the corner too long for my liking... I will probably go back and revisit them at some point in the near future as I think there's still a lot of potential to be found just in shock setup... but for the time being, I felt more comfortable with the shock setup from the posted setup.

Originally Posted by Rotax125

You are correct sir!



Yep!

Made the switch about a month ago! Car keeps getting better and better every outing!
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:07 AM
  #3497  
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Originally Posted by jag88
Steve, I noticed you moved the steering post to the 1 position and moved the bell crank back to the 'C' postion. Why, and is this unique to the high bite that you run on ?
Thanks.
Hey Jag,

I was looking for a way to get less ackerman for more steering but in a way that didn't make the car too difficult to drive.

With the bellcrank moved forward to 1 and shortened to c you get less ackerman but the leverage on the steering from the servo is such that it drives much more linearly... IE, I felt like I could use the wheel more to get more precise steering than before... where it felt like all the steering response was right around center.

I wouldn't think that it would be a change that is exclusive to high bite tracks though... I think that feel can be useful in most types of track conditions... there are other chassis/setup changes that can be made to accommodate lower traction.

Hope that makes sense!
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:11 AM
  #3498  
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BF,

Concerning Vegas:

The jury is still out... I would like to go but missing an entire week of school is hard to swallow... we will see!
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Old 08-12-2011, 11:38 AM
  #3499  
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Originally Posted by Verndog
Many thanks verndog
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Old 08-13-2011, 06:41 AM
  #3500  
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What is everyone using for camber link balls and cups. The stock ones seem to have too much friction even after I squeeze them. The same for the shock ends.
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Old 08-13-2011, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by fpart
What is everyone using for camber link balls and cups. The stock ones seem to have too much friction even after I squeeze them. The same for the shock ends.


I think the kit ball studs and cups are very good .... but just like with other things in the kit it takes some extra work to make them work as designed. What I did was to put the ball stud in the dremel and polish/sand it with 1000 grit paper. After a couple of tries they work perfect !
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Old 08-13-2011, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by fpart
What is everyone using for camber link balls and cups. The stock ones seem to have too much friction even after I squeeze them. The same for the shock ends.
I used the Associated ti ball studs and they are very smooth with no extra work needed. With the stock ones squezing rod ends with a pair of pliers works very good.

Last edited by VAzRACER; 08-15-2011 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 08-13-2011, 11:56 AM
  #3503  
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I have "sacrifised" a ball end and made 2 cuts on the ball with cutting pliers then fit it on drill and turn my cups on to loose them a little, perfect fit !
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Old 08-13-2011, 12:12 PM
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I just give the boards a few really good hits. That seems to loosen up things quite nicely.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:48 AM
  #3505  
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I don't when this happened, but I've been driving my car with a broken shock. In a 8 min quali I managed to get a 0.39con, I only found this shock when changing spring. And I haven't done much driving the last two months due to be in the USA and Winter.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:12 AM
  #3506  
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Originally Posted by olly986
I have "sacrifised" a ball end and made 2 cuts on the ball with cutting pliers then fit it on drill and turn my cups on to loose them a little, perfect fit !
This is the way to go.
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:18 AM
  #3507  
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Anyone had a problem with the steering post screw on the top deck back out.. I just made my first shake down and that was the only thing that I noticed.. Seems it is hard to get tight.. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:30 AM
  #3508  
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not with the steering post but we had a couple a problems with the spur gear support screws, poor quality and coming off damaging 2 spur gears on two different cars, since I changed them and put a tiny amount of threadlock.
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:47 AM
  #3509  
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Originally Posted by Fodarr
Anyone had a problem with the steering post screw on the top deck back out.. I just made my first shake down and that was the only thing that I noticed.. Seems it is hard to get tight.. Any thoughts?
Use the "spanner" looking wrench supplied with the kit to secure the flat bottom part on the steering post and then tighten the top deck screw. Make sense? Not sure how well I just explained that...
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:40 AM
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I think i get it.. do you access the part from the bottom of the car or from the side?
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