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Old 07-30-2011, 12:36 PM   #3361
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You need to check your numbers. My first post was to what you claimed was .11mm tweak, now you "got it down to" .6mm which is 5 times more tweak then you posted you had. Was that supposed to be 1.1mm? If so that is way too much and disregard what I said, in fact .6mm is on the edge of what most serious racers would allow.
My bad, got it down to .06mm. lol
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Old 07-30-2011, 01:02 PM   #3362
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how much force should i use to try turn wheel??? because if i was trying hard it was slipping but if not hard it wasn't slipping that gear seems to be hard to work with it!
Enough force to make it turn or not, but if you really really force too much you will get a little movement still, when you do not hold one wheel, just the spur gear (motor), the wheels should turn freely in opposite direction with no grinding noise.

Have you clean and regrease (black) the thrust race at the same time?

Do not use the term "spool" for a differential gear, a spool is at the front and have no or very little play with no balls but the white pads inside.
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Old 07-30-2011, 01:15 PM   #3363
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No the Sakura fits fine, it needs a few shims behind the bearings but all is good, shame the outdrives are not direct fit, they are very small and the bone doesn't get near it.

Was hoping to race today but weather is bad, so have to postpone.
Well today was my first turns, and it was fine to say the least, a little noisy at first until the diff got "done" no belt problem, the meshing was good too, no slip between diff gear and belt, I use the 40t pulley like the original TC6 one.

No damage done to the RRR outdrive, even without the blades in, but my heatshrink does a good job.

there is quite a few shims to fit behind the ballraces, but the Sakura diff comes with plenty.

So all in all, good fit in the TC6, to recap: Sakura diff set, NT1 planetary gears, 40t/39t Sakura differential gears set, short RRR V1 Kyosho outdrives.
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:26 PM   #3364
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I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, but here we go....

I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.
+1 Big al...
Some guys are getting way too anal about the tweak. It's only a 2mm chassis plate fellas! It's like trying to keep a wet noodle straight. This chassis has so much flex, it doesn't really matter if the tweak is a touch off as it will always be a touch off.
The first thing you hit on the track is going to change the chassis right off. All you can really do is get it close and run the thing for a few heats then check the tweak. Loosen a few screws to reset the tension and re-tighten, check your droop and go back out. After awhile the chassis will neutralize and then it will be more consistent. (This goes for any new car kit, not just the TC6) I can see no reason to stress over the chassis tweak on a new kit that has never been on the track or bounced off another car for that matter.

RELAX!!!!!!

I mean Chilllllllll, man
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Old 07-30-2011, 06:05 PM   #3365
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I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, but here we go....

I rarely ever bother to set tweak. Literally EVER. In my mind if i hit just one thing or even a bump in the pavement wrong, bam tweaked. In an imperfect world and surface, tweak seems like circular logic. "I'm gonna reset my tweak so that my car will turn and handle almost perfectly on surfaces that are in no way near perfect nor flat." It's like drying your swim shorts right before you jump in the pool. Call me crazy. You should sweat you contact patch (camber). Hasn't let me down yet.
Except you forgot that what chassis tweak does is severely impact your weight transfer distribution by causing significant more cross weight in one direction than the other. This is due to the residual stress left in the chassis/fastened joints. Simply loosening and retightening these components (assuming nothing is bent/broken) will resolve this. Chassis tweak's impact on contact patch is pretty small. Setting corner weights in real racing is a very, very standard practice and those surfaces aren't perfect either.
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Old 07-30-2011, 09:11 PM   #3366
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I can see no reason to stress over the chassis tweak on a new kit that has never been on the track or bounced off another car for that matter.

RELAX!!!!!!

I mean Chilllllllll, man
That totally depends on the amount of tweak your talking about. You can't just say any amount of tweak is OK, you need real world numbers to start to draw the line. The TC6 is pretty easy to keep under .5mm (.019) total tweak. Personally I keep mine under .2mm and have no problem doing so. More then that you are going to notice that shock collars, droop screws, camber angles, and toe angles are all being over corrected to make the chassis handle the same left to right.
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Old 07-30-2011, 10:39 PM   #3367
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That totally depends on the amount of tweak your talking about. You can't just say any amount of tweak is OK, you need real world numbers to start to draw the line. The TC6 is pretty easy to keep under .5mm (.019) total tweak. Personally I keep mine under .2mm and have no problem doing so. More then that you are going to notice that shock collars, droop screws, camber angles, and toe angles are all being over corrected to make the chassis handle the same left to right.
So true verndog, but I was primarily commenting on those who are stressing about the most minute amount of tweak before the car has even been on the track. I wanted to stress how much of the effort will be lost after the car has been run in over a day or so of racing. I suggest getting some laps in and then work on ironing out the tweak once the parts have had the chance to seat properly.

By the way, do you still have hinge pin mounts left?
I'd like to pick up a set soon.
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Old 07-30-2011, 11:30 PM   #3368
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Except you forgot that what chassis tweak does is severely impact your weight transfer distribution by causing significant more cross weight in one direction than the other. This is due to the residual stress left in the chassis/fastened joints. Simply loosening and retightening these components (assuming nothing is bent/broken) will resolve this. Chassis tweak's impact on contact patch is pretty small. Setting corner weights in real racing is a very, very standard practice and those surfaces aren't perfect either.
I hear what you are saying. I think that we, as racers, forget that everything on these cars( minus the gear ratio) are dynamic. Tire diameter, flexing of the wheel, weight distribution...it goes on forever. People assume that when a car comes off the track tweaked that it was tweaked that particular way the whole time, thus not driving correctly. I would argue that the (dynamic) tweak probably shifted a few times. I consider myself a SLIGHTLY above average competitor and driver and I can honestly say that I have never come into the pits feeling that I didn't place as well as I should because of tweak.

Tweak definitely has it's place...I'm just lazy in that fashion.
Got my honey do list done, I'm racing tomorrow!!
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:33 AM   #3369
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Have you clean and regrease (black) the thrust race at the same time?
Yes of course

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Do not use the term "spool" for a differential gear, a spool is at the front and have no or very little play with no balls but the white pads inside.
Sorry my mistake
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:02 PM   #3370
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just finished putting a team powers 3.5 turn motor in my tc6 with a maxamps lipo and a mamba pro esc, cant wait to run it.....hope the rubber stays on the wheels
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:18 AM   #3371
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Would putting a thicker oil in my gear diff help with my car's high speed push? Currently have AE 40wt in my car, as per Hebert's and Hohwart's suggestion at the Reedy.
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:07 AM   #3372
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Would putting a thicker oil in my gear diff help with my car's high speed push? Currently have AE 40wt in my car, as per Hebert's and Hohwart's suggestion at the Reedy.
Most of the time I found set ups with 1000 to 650 (100/65) I just started to run mine with 1000 and it is good so far, have to try different oil to judge, I will be going down now.
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:47 AM   #3373
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just wanted to be sure, set belts tension like is in manual: front 28 mid-hight, rear 6 mid-low and that is not too much? they look very strained... That's manual so supposed to be ok, just want to be sure
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:45 AM   #3374
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When you pull the long one out in the middle section it should move 5mm up, for the rear push in between the gears it should go down 2/3mm.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:46 AM   #3375
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just wanted to be sure, set belts tension like is in manual: front 28 mid-hight, rear 6 mid-low and that is not too much? they look very strained... That's manual so supposed to be ok, just want to be sure
Double check that you have it set correctly. Using the kit set-up my belts weren't close to being too tight.
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