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Old 07-27-2011, 09:53 PM   #3331
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unscrew the shock ends to get the droop
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:18 AM   #3332
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Originally Posted by nicorozog View Post
Also i have a few questions:

1. Has anyone tried the Diff T-Nut - Minilocknut, with the diff thrust bolt, of the AE B4 Buggy?. Ive Heard that it would be a good option when you damage the stock Mini-Locknut trying thighten the screw for the spool....

2. Which are the "ball ends" that i should use to get 5mm of rear droop?

Thanks a lot from Bogota!
1. It's a direct fit and it's resistent.

2. The stock ones should be ok. Use 63,7 mm of shock lenght as Keven Hebert said.

Hope this help.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:10 AM   #3333
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Guys, how often should lube ball diff? after few runs diff pulley is worn out!!!
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:21 AM   #3334
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After every cleaning of diff, you can feel the "grit" when you turn it by hand, I clean it after every day of full race competition.

If your diff pulley is damaged after a few runs, check that you are not getting small stones in it (on dirty track or car parks it is the worst)

Make sure that the belt seats flat and you have both side of diff excentrics on same groove.

That your belt is not too tight also.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:48 AM   #3335
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
After every cleaning of diff, you can feel the "grit" when you turn it by hand, I clean it after every day of full race competition.

If your diff pulley is damaged after a few runs, check that you are not getting small stones in it (on dirty track or car parks it is the worst)

Make sure that the belt seats flat and you have both side of diff excentrics on same groove.

That your belt is not too tight also.
Thats probably it, i think the track was too dirty to race on that for two practice days. My fault. Thanks!
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:24 AM   #3336
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We get a lot of "burned" rubber and oil left on track by IC cars also, it gets into the diff gear/belt grooves and upset your belt by becoming tighter, you need to remove the deposit with a small pointy knife. this you should check too.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:37 AM   #3337
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yes that i know, but pulley was damaged inside where the balls are... Looks like balls made holes bigger and with worn plastic... Hope you understand it hard to explain and have no macro in my phone to make some pics.
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:42 PM   #3338
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Hi roger,

Well to get your diff that damaged, it has to be extremely dirty or just too loose, which is the probable reason.

When you hold one wheel and the spur gear (not diff gear it too awkward to reach) together with one hand, try to turn the other wheel, if it turns, you need to tighten your diff until the wheel does not turn anymore (not too much either or you will flatten the balls on pads or groove the pads too much) in general the manual setup is good with new balls and pads, run a few times and recheck the diff. all settings are small increments at the time, not full turns

It is important to get the diff right, especially with spool on front.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:43 PM   #3339
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yeah there is to 1/8 turn out. Try to do like is in manual. B4 was probably more... But inside was enough lube after runs... So i don't think so it was too loose. Have no experience with that so next time try to do it like in manual.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:18 AM   #3340
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Make sure you reach the point as explain above where your diff does not slip but it is not overtight either and you will be fine, the diff has heated up and the balls melted the plastic more than likely.
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:18 AM   #3341
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
Make sure you reach the point as explain above where your diff does not slip but it is not overtight either and you will be fine, the diff has heated up and the balls melted the plastic more than likely.
yeah but the question is: how can i find that point?
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:45 AM   #3342
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yeah but the question is: how can i find that point?
Stick 2 hex drivers in the outdrives to stop them rotating and try to rotate the diff pulley with your other hand. If you can move the pulley the diff is too loose.

You'll also hear if it's too loose on the track. Stand near the car and launch with full throttle. If the diff is too loose the car will make a slight noise as the rear diff slips. It's hard to describe the noise. It's not the same noise as a pinion/spur slipping but it definitely sounds like something slipping in the drive train.
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Old 07-29-2011, 06:57 AM   #3343
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Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Stick 2 hex drivers in the outdrives to stop them rotating and try to rotate the diff pulley with your other hand. If you can move the pulley the diff is too loose.

You'll also hear if it's too loose on the track. Stand near the car and launch with full throttle. If the diff is too loose the car will make a slight noise as the rear diff slips. It's hard to describe the noise. It's not the same noise as a pinion/spur slipping but it definitely sounds like something slipping in the drive train.
so that spool should be impossible to move by hand or just very hard to do it? Because on the manual is after tight it full, turn it back 1/8 of turn...?
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:03 AM   #3344
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I have used the off road t-nut in mine since I built it, and works great. Part number 6575, gets you the t-nut, cover and diff bolt.
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:56 AM   #3345
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so that spool should be impossible to move by hand or just very hard to do it? Because on the manual is after tight it full, turn it back 1/8 of turn...?
Correct, the slipper spool should be really tough to turn, it really isn't designed to move except for hitting something where there is some give as compared to a traditional spool. I tigtened the bolt until the spring bottomed out and left it. It was easy to feel when the tension ramped up.

The rear diff I built to Associated's instructions. Seemed tight to me but just backing off the tension a hair resulted in slip. There seems to be a very fine range of adjustment vs. the diffs in the Corally Phi which I ran previouly. So far still running on the initial build and the diff is like butter. I run indoor carpet so I'm not dealing with the amount of debris the outdoor people have to deal with.

Also, I've had no issue with the stock t-nut. I just made sure the lock nut was all the way into the well before I tried to thread in the diff bolt.

Good luck. The TC6 is a great car.
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Last edited by Chaz955i; 07-29-2011 at 08:58 AM. Reason: edited for clarity
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