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Old 07-03-2011, 06:50 AM   #3106
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I was looking for parts on the tc6 list on tqrcracing and they have the 46mm tamiya shaft in the list..does this fit? I was wondering if anyone has found any other bones to work?


Tamiya (53724)
TB Evo IV 46mm Swing Shaft - Lightweight (Blue)
TOP racing used to produce carbide steel pins set for tc5 which u can use on tc6. i am using them. they are rigid, fit and smooth. u may need to contact a model shop from hong kong thought....
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:26 PM   #3107
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Anyone know what Yokomo springs Juho Levanen ran at the Reedy this year?
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Old 07-04-2011, 12:31 AM   #3108
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pink/blue
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:36 AM   #3109
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pink/blue
Danke
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:44 AM   #3110
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Any updates on how far away a associated made gear diff is???
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:32 AM   #3111
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Any updates on how far away a associated made gear diff is???
it will probably be aafter the event that you need it
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:51 AM   #3112
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Anyone have any suggestions on base set up for a 17.5 blinky RCGT on a 150x60 smooth, soda prepped asphalt track? Traction is medium, and tires are limited to HPI X patterns.
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:15 AM   #3113
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What a great car! Bought it on Friday and was racing on sunday! No issues, easy build. Never drove a 1/10 scale car before. Box stock setup, but the rear toe set to 2.5.

Qualify 5th in the A and finished 5th! Cant believe how this car is stuck. Outdoor high bite track. Only issue was a traction roll and a heard hit to the wall. Bent the left rear bolt for lower hinge pin! My fault.

Lots of great info on this thread thanks!
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:30 AM   #3114
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Anyone have any suggestions on base set up for a 17.5 blinky RCGT on a 150x60 smooth, soda prepped asphalt track? Traction is medium, and tires are limited to HPI X patterns.
I'm fairly close to this setup and like it (but still evolving). I must say the TC6 is pretty darn good with a large variety of setup changes, more so then the TC5. Many of the setups are geared more toward high bite which we see more med around here. For me this seems a bit better for that. For springs you may want to start with silver / silver since it calls for HPI springs. Really good aftermarket springs are the Reflex springs.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ftr_6-2011.pdf
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:21 AM   #3115
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Thanks, Verndog. I'm looking to slap a set of your Dial A Grips on the car soon, too!
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:20 PM   #3116
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Not sure where your question is but these are the basics. Put them on just like the AE blocks, only while tightening the main block screw into bulkhead you need to hold the block down to rest on the top set screw to locate. After tightening there should be tension on the top 1.5mm driver screw. Then lock the pin set screw againt hinge pins and drive like mad.
thanks Verndog, thats helped, is the standard setting ie as shipped on num 2 blocks same as the a3 setting ?

sorry im crap with new stuff but want to get your product at its best
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:27 PM   #3117
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thanks Verndog, thats helped, is the standard setting ie as shipped on num 2 blocks same as the a3 setting ?
There are 2 ways to get to the A3 block setting. 1 is with the 0 block in the B hole and turn the top locating screw 1 full turn CCW (unscrew). This makes the 0 block longer by .020 which is just where the A3 block puts it.

2nd way is obviously using the PPD 2 block in the A hole and shorten the block all the way --turn CW 1 1/2 turns (screw in till full stop on main screw).

I advise to download or bookmark this and print it. Then lay out your AE blocks in line 0-3 and see the progressive height difference. Once you view this and the blocks it makes much more sense.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK-NET2.pdf
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:47 PM   #3118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
There are 2 ways to get to the A3 block setting. 1 is with the 0 block in the B hole and turn the top locating screw 1 full turn CCW (unscrew). This makes the 0 block longer by .020 which is just where the A3 block puts it.

2nd way is obviously using the PPD 2 block in the A hole and shorten the block all the way --turn CW 1 1/2 turns (screw in till full stop on main screw).

I advise to download or bookmark this and print it. Then lay out your AE blocks in line 0-3 and see the progressive height difference. Once you view this and the blocks it makes much more sense.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK-NET2.pdf
thanks that's grate, i think i got it now, they do look cool on the car , i'll show em off at the weekend.
thanks again for the help
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:18 PM   #3119
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Default Useful Block Height Info

I've looked for this and not found it so I took some measurements from the chassis and blocks and figured I'd post these arm mount block heights for the TC6.

Beginning with B mount values and numbers are +/- off the B0 block location. For less confusion and the fact the B0 block is close to center of travel, I started there. + is higher roll center (arm is further up from chassis) and - is the opposite direction (arm is closer to to chassis). All numbers are in inches, for mm multiply x 25.4

AE TC6 Block Heights

B0 = 0 (NOMINAL)
B1 = +.050
B2 = +.080
B3 = +.115

A0 = -.136 (impossible though as mount wont fit)
A1 = -.086
A2 = -.056
A3 = -.021
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:41 PM   #3120
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Does someone know the part number of the blue aluminum spacers to use instead of the plastic ones between the rear lower hinge pin mounts?

Thank You
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