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Old 06-24-2011, 02:21 PM   #3016
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I'm very interested in these gear diffs, which one takes less 'Macgyvering' to make fit our cars?
Both about the same as far as macgyvering. The yokomo is a better gear diff as far as leaking but you have to run the car a bit wider so the bones dont bottom out on the yok..
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:27 PM   #3017
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Both about the same as far as macgyvering. The yokomo is a better gear diff as far as leaking but you have to run the car a bit wider so the bones dont bottom out on the yok..
So with the Yoke geardiffs, I am still using the TC6 axles/dogbones/blades correct?
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:06 PM   #3018
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So with the Yoke geardiffs, I am still using the TC6 axles/dogbones/blades correct?
thats good for at least two tenths.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:09 PM   #3019
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So with the Yoke geardiffs, I am still using the TC6 axles/dogbones/blades correct?
with modification to fit...yes

Last edited by OVA; 06-24-2011 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:37 PM   #3020
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So with the Yoke geardiffs, I am still using the TC6 axles/dogbones/blades correct?
yes
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:43 PM   #3021
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Where is the best place to get the yok diff ?
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:02 PM   #3022
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Where is the best place to get the yok diff ?
Driftspeed.com, they carry Yokomo in the USA
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:07 PM   #3023
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I just ordered 2 from rcmarket
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:25 PM   #3024
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to make the yok diff work with the tc6 driveshafts you have to drill out the yok out drives to make them fit. to avoid the hastle, order a set of 44 mm yok cvds, bearings and hex drives. it will cost more, but work right.
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:34 PM   #3025
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to make the yok diff work with the tc6 driveshafts you have to drill out the yok out drives to make them fit. to avoid the hastle, order a set of 44 mm yok cvds, bearings and hex drives. it will cost more, but work right.
One of the main reasons I opted to wait on the AE diff. You start boring out the hard coating from the diffs, and they last about 1/2 as long like the old TC5 anodized (not hard coated) outdrives that lasted about 30 runs then toss.
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Old 06-25-2011, 12:47 AM   #3026
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is the front slip spool supposed to be locked MAX tight?
i am having the problem of inconsistent cornering and i am thinking that the spool maybe the culprit...coz i can rotate the front tires in opposite directions pretty easily.....

Last edited by Molala4; 06-25-2011 at 12:49 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:52 AM   #3027
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Yes, the Slipper Spool has to be tight. If you grab both front tires you have to use some strength to turn them in the opposite direction.
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:14 AM   #3028
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
I'm very interested in these gear diffs, which one takes less 'Macgyvering' to make fit our cars?
The AE when they come out !!
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:59 AM   #3029
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is the front slip spool supposed to be locked MAX tight?
i am having the problem of inconsistent cornering and i am thinking that the spool maybe the culprit...coz i can rotate the front tires in opposite directions pretty easily.....
Make sure the slipper spool is built right. If you're coming from a TC5r those instructions did not use thrust balls between the thrust washers but the TC6 do use the thrust balls. I always found my TC5r slipper spool to work better with the thrust balls for some reason.

If your slipper spool is built right but keeps loosening up change the bolt and nut. Re-assemble with a dab of thread lock on the end of the thrust bolt and wait a bit for the thread lock to set.

When built properly it should be quite hard to get the front wheels to rotate independently and it should stay that way in a race.
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:56 AM   #3030
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Or fully locked with wet and dry pads made instead of original white pads like some racers use.
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