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Old 06-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #2956
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I got to run my TC6 for the first time on the weekend, and im very happy with it so far.. Here is some video of the first heat..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuclBsb7snM

Cheers..
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:12 PM   #2957
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
VERNDOG RULES!!!!

Ran the dial-a-grip for the first time. Those things rock. No slop after running all day. Hit a few boards, broke a c-hub and nothing. Those things rule, if nothing else just to not have to tighten the stock ones after every run was worth it.
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I have too 2nd that.

Also like how fast you can try new block setup with dial-a-grip.
Great job VERNDOG,
bw
Thanks guys enjoy! Dont forget to try your new quick tuning options, you will be surprised what a difference 1/2-1 turn adjustment will do especially when changing tracks or having a day the grip level drops.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:35 PM   #2958
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Lunsford titanium turnbuckle my friend is the solution...

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Originally Posted by Jonesy112 View Post
I blieve all of the turnbuckles are sizes they already manufactured for other cars. If you just measure the total length of them and them search for the associated turnbuckles that length, you should be good.

I would check my manual and give you the lengths needed, but I am on vacation and dont have my rc stuff with me.
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:56 PM   #2959
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I need some replacement turnbuckles. Amain does not have them, any ideas?
Yeah, Speedtech!

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Old 06-19-2011, 11:25 PM   #2960
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My TC6 was good today, thanks to DIALED; a few more adjustments and I should be 'dialed' in
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:56 AM   #2961
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Default Gear diff issues

So I went with the genuine Yokomo BD5 gear diff for the TC6 but am regretting it. The driveshaft blades bottom out inside the outdrives, so you have to heavily trim the blades for it to fit. This has resulted in heavy wear to both the blades and outdrives due to the very small contact patch that is left on the blades.

Have others had the same issue? What about the Spec-R diff, do the blades need trimming or does it fit without issue (once drilled to 6.5mm)?
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:35 AM   #2962
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Thanks guys enjoy! Dont forget to try your new quick tuning options, you will be surprised what a difference 1/2-1 turn adjustment will do especially when changing tracks or having a day the grip level drops.
hey kevin,
one thing i noticed about the dial-a-grips. they dont like to be used with the plastic spacers used in the kit. aluminum spacers are recomended.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:40 AM   #2963
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Originally Posted by cantrell8 View Post
hey kevin,
one thing i noticed about the dial-a-grips. they dont like to be used with the plastic spacers used in the kit. aluminum spacers are recomended.
And I recommend Kevin make long ones that are the whole length of the dial-a-grips
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:50 AM   #2964
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Originally Posted by Molala4 View Post
My tc6 tweaks seriously what should i do?
Hey man you need to strip the car and rebuild it and check for tweak every couple of parts you put on to find what is causing it.i would say build as per the manual and keep checking though out the rebuild and ones you find what is causing it you can work out how to fix it.There is no use trying to figure it out when is built.there are many little technical ways to get rid of it but sometimes it just a bad kit.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:15 AM   #2965
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
So I went with the genuine Yokomo BD5 gear diff for the TC6 but am regretting it. The driveshaft blades bottom out inside the outdrives, so you have to heavily trim the blades for it to fit. This has resulted in heavy wear to both the blades and outdrives due to the very small contact patch that is left on the blades.

Have others had the same issue? What about the Spec-R diff, do the blades need trimming or does it fit without issue (once drilled to 6.5mm)?
I had the same prob Dale if you want to run kit rear track!The Spec R version allows more drive shaft plunge with out the blades bottoming out but you will need to take a little material off the gear casings so it fits.HTH Les
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:20 AM   #2966
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Originally Posted by cantrell8 View Post
hey kevin,
one thing i noticed about the dial-a-grips. they dont like to be used with the plastic spacers used in the kit. aluminum spacers are recomended.
Yes this is true, they tend to take form and keep from being able to freely adjust. This note is on the instruction sheet 2nd note from bottom of page.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK-NET.pdf

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And I recommend Kevin make long ones that are the whole length of the dial-a-grips
I thought about it, but after seeing what the kit full length spacers do I think full length may cause binding (you are forcing right angled pins and mounts off to an angle with rear tow). Even though using washer type spacers looks to be susceptible to movement, they are rock solid and will not budge with the dial-a-grip That makes it only a "feel good" part, and you can look to China for those please.
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:26 AM   #2967
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Hi, What are you guys running for spacers? I see that some are recommending aluminum spacers. Are these homebrew or are you using something commercially available?

Thx
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:35 AM   #2968
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Hi, What are you guys running for spacers? I see that some are recommending aluminum spacers. Are these homebrew or are you using something commercially available?

Thx
Standard 3mm stainless steel washers (.020 thickness) work just fine. It takes 5 per end to get to 3 degs. rear tow....(just over 1/2 deg. ea).
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:38 AM   #2969
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Standard 3mm stainless steel washers (.020 thickness) work just fine. It takes 5 per end to get to 3 degs. rear tow....(just under 1/2 deg. ea).
Thanks. Appreciate the help.
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:44 AM   #2970
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Hey Vern, any chance you could generate some sort of reference chart to match up D-A-Gs to the Associated parts?

I.E

D-A-G in B, 0 turns = B0 (if thats correct...)
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