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Old 06-06-2011, 08:05 PM   #2836
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Originally Posted by Bernarossi View Post
I use the yokomo BD5 spec r gear diff. on my tc6 with the stock universals. Just like spring71 said you just have to file down the ball part of the universal in order to get them to fit. If you want proof I can take a pic for you.
Not wanting the pictures as a prove, but more like showing us how to do it.

Yes, kindly post some photos as I am interested to see how 'deep' we need to file down the ball of the universal shaft.

Thanks...
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:15 PM   #2837
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Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
We have indoor rc track & hobby shop in chino CA.

Spec R Gear Diffs and Universals are in stock.

Disabled link Click Here to see Spec R products.[/URL]

Disabled link Click Here to visit the parts store[/URL]




Please visit not gonna go there for more information.
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Don't let yourself confuse. This guy is just advertising his stuff without using his brain...
YEP and to top it off, he is advertizing out of stock merchandise (the Spec-R gear diff for the TC-5 is out of stock on his site)
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:53 PM   #2838
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Hello, first I am NOT selling any of these gear diff so please don't say I am placing an ad. LOL Anyway, I am using the spec R (yokomo) diff in my TC6 now. Instead of sanding the drive shaft I use a round sanding wheel (6mm in diameter). Sand the out drive of the gear diff slightly bigger. (the out drive was orginal 6mm, I can't remember the exact diameter of the Tc6 bone. I think it is 6.5 or 6.7mm). When you test fit it makes sure you have the blades installed on the dog bone as if the hole is slightly not centered it will bind.... And it does take long time as the outdrive is really hard...... And for the diff casing as it is slightly wider than the TC6's diff. I think by around 1mm. I just mount the housing on my tire tuner (using the touring hex with long tamiya outdrive). File the edge where the bearing sit slightly so the bearing will fit closer together. You do not need to be exact for this process as if you take too much materials out you can always shim it afterward.
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:58 PM   #2839
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Oh, and for the xray blades sorry I never try it. But I tried the atomic blades for xray. They will fit the tc6 bones. But 2 things. 1. they are a little too thick so need to sand it slightly. 2: They seems to be a little loose. so I heat the center parts slightly and push it together. But to be hornest the AE blades fit much better and last way longer. I just use it because I have some left over and don't wants to waste it. lol
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:54 AM   #2840
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Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs View Post
Warren whens the next time your coming to jackson? Received the package Kevin thanks. Also dont waste your time with the spec r universals, the metal is garbage and wear out really quickly. Not worth wasting your money..
I should be there in 2 weeks cant wait to get back racing
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:34 AM   #2841
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just read about tc6...
now changing to new kit...
tc6 will be on top of my list
so, what should i need, like hopups and gear diff and most important is spares...?
i heard spec-r can fit but have do some mod...
but i more prefer TOP..can top's gear diff fit tc6 nicely...?
and one more thing, do i need DIAL-A-GRIP for option part..?

thank you guys..

alan
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:43 AM   #2842
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Originally Posted by gpm-parts.com View Post
Hello, first I am NOT selling any of these gear diff so please don't say I am placing an ad. LOL Anyway, I am using the spec R (yokomo) diff in my TC6 now. Instead of sanding the drive shaft I use a round sanding wheel (6mm in diameter). Sand the out drive of the gear diff slightly bigger. (the out drive was orginal 6mm, I can't remember the exact diameter of the Tc6 bone. I think it is 6.5 or 6.7mm). When you test fit it makes sure you have the blades installed on the dog bone as if the hole is slightly not centered it will bind.... And it does take long time as the outdrive is really hard...... And for the diff casing as it is slightly wider than the TC6's diff. I think by around 1mm. I just mount the housing on my tire tuner (using the touring hex with long tamiya outdrive). File the edge where the bearing sit slightly so the bearing will fit closer together. You do not need to be exact for this process as if you take too much materials out you can always shim it afterward.
We need step by step with pics of this mod. Good stuff just not sure all the details.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:02 PM   #2843
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Originally Posted by byohnd View Post
i just got a tc6 today to run in a vta class. does anyone know where i can find a starting setup for this? looked on ae website and tried the search here but didnt get anywhere
Until you find someone who has run a TC6 with success in VTA, I would suggest just using one of the current sedan setups posted by the team drivers on the AE site and go from there. I haven't run my TC6 in VTA, but that's what I would do. With my TC5, I would just take off my racing slicks, bolt on my VTA tires, and I was good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ahpeq_ong View Post
just read about tc6...
now changing to new kit...
tc6 will be on top of my list
so, what should i need, like hopups and gear diff and most important is spares...?
i heard spec-r can fit but have do some mod...
but i more prefer TOP..can top's gear diff fit tc6 nicely...?
and one more thing, do i need DIAL-A-GRIP for option part..?

thank you guys..

alan
"Need" is a tricky word. You don't really "need" anything. I just bought a second set of DIAL-A-GRIPS because they are awesome and worth the money for me so that I don't have to worry about my hinge pins coming loose, but I "survived" without them till now. I've been running a ball diff with success, but picked up a gear diff to try out for a tuning option.

- I bought 4 shorter than stock camber link turnbuckles because the stock ones only fit position #7
- I picked up an extra pair of green and silver springs so I can run all green or all silver
- I bought some silver long 8mm ball studs because a lot of posted setups use those.
- When I break, I break: 0 degree rear hubs, caster blocks, and steering knuckles. That's about it.
- Keeping some extra 6X10 bearing on hand will come in handy eventually
- Definitely buy some serrated wheel nuts, because nobody wants to loose a nut.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:01 PM   #2844
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Originally Posted by ahpeq_ong View Post
just read about tc6...
now changing to new kit...
tc6 will be on top of my list
so, what should i need, like hopups and gear diff and most important is spares...?
i heard spec-r can fit but have do some mod...
but i more prefer TOP..can top's gear diff fit tc6 nicely...?
and one more thing, do i need DIAL-A-GRIP for option part..?

thank you guys..

alan
Have not done the top gear diff in a TC6 but I am quite sure with some work on the orginal ball diff pulley in will fit. But it is not recommanded as even with 13.5T motor we kill the top gear diff in around 3-4 pack of battery (in a top)... The gears are way too small and there are only 4 gears.... not the usual 6 gears setup.... Go with the spec R setup or if you wants something really reliable. Go with the NT1 rear diff mod, use xceed lightweight gears and xray light weight outdrive. The NT1 diff last forever.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:08 PM   #2845
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Getting really fed up with my TC6. Was going over it after building tonight and noticed excessive slop on one of the front C-hubs. Noticed the outer hinge pin moving inside the arm when I rocked the C-hub. Pulled the outer hinge pin and measured it at 2.35mm diameter at one end and 2.36mm at the other. Pulled the outer hinge pin on the other side and measured it at 2.47mm diameter one end and 2.48mm the other end. Measured 2 unused ones from my TC5r at 2.47mm and 2.48mm. All out of round when rotating in the caliper jaws but only by 0.01mm. Measured a Lunsford titanium one at 2.47mm at one end and 2.48mm at the other and not out of round when rotated.

During my build over the past week I have had to:
Swap all underside chassis screws to stainless so they can fit in the countersunk holes so I can check chassis tweak on a flat surface.
Countersink some of the chassis holes that stainless screws still didn't fit into.
Could only use 3 out of the 4 inner hinge pins due to them being bent slightly. The 4th was too bent to be used.
Had to swap in Lunsford outer hinge pins at the front since 1 of the stock ones was too small.

I suppose this is all part of the fun of the hobby and building a kit but when a chassis kit costs $399 USD I expect it to be able to go together without major issues. My TC5r cost less and went together with no major issues with all kit supplied parts. I don't have any hobby stores in the country I live for the extra stuff I needed to finish building my TC6. I waited over 6 months to buy a TC6 so the quality control issues could be worked out but it seems there's still issues. If I didn't have spares and extras for running my TC5r I'd have had to put in additional mail orders to get this kit put together which would have added weeks to the build time and additional money spent in tax and shipping.

I e-mailed AE about my chassis countersinking issues last week and am yet to get a response. I'll send an additional e-mail with the other issues I'm having and attempt to follow up by phone since these issues should be reported to them. I've been a big fan of AE for years but the quality of their product has really gone down with this kit. Hopefully their offroad products are still good. I really want to keep supporting AE but at this point if I buy replacement components such as a bottom chassis plate and additional hinge pins I have no way of knowing if they'll have the same issue that my kit supplied ones have.

If I was newish to the hobby and this was a first time kit after stepping up from an RTR this would be a major turn off and I'd probably walk away from it.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:09 PM   #2846
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:28 PM   #2847
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I think you got one of the early kit as when I got mine I had the same issue with the hinge pins..... I bring the pins back and they give me replacement which measure around 2.47-2.49mm. And they said they said they have change the pin for the newer kits already..... But I change all of them to titanium pins anyway. And for the contersunks holes all of them don't fit...... The kit do handle quite well but there are still rooms for improvement on the finishing....

Quote:
Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Getting really fed up with my TC6. Was going over it after building tonight and noticed excessive slop on one of the front C-hubs. Noticed the outer hinge pin moving inside the arm when I rocked the C-hub. Pulled the outer hinge pin and measured it at 2.35mm diameter at one end and 2.36mm at the other. Pulled the outer hinge pin on the other side and measured it at 2.47mm diameter one end and 2.48mm the other end. Measured 2 unused ones from my TC5r at 2.47mm and 2.48mm. All out of round when rotating in the caliper jaws but only by 0.01mm. Measured a Lunsford titanium one at 2.47mm at one end and 2.48mm at the other and not out of round when rotated.

During my build over the past week I have had to:
Swap all underside chassis screws to stainless so they can fit in the countersunk holes so I can check chassis tweak on a flat surface.
Countersink some of the chassis holes that stainless screws still didn't fit into.
Could only use 3 out of the 4 inner hinge pins due to them being bent slightly. The 4th was too bent to be used.
Had to swap in Lunsford outer hinge pins at the front since 1 of the stock ones was too small.

I suppose this is all part of the fun of the hobby and building a kit but when a chassis kit costs $399 USD I expect it to be able to go together without major issues. My TC5r cost less and went together with no major issues with all kit supplied parts. I don't have any hobby stores in the country I live for the extra stuff I needed to finish building my TC6. I waited over 6 months to buy a TC6 so the quality control issues could be worked out but it seems there's still issues. If I didn't have spares and extras for running my TC5r I'd have had to put in additional mail orders to get this kit put together which would have added weeks to the build time and additional money spent in tax and shipping.

I e-mailed AE about my chassis countersinking issues last week and am yet to get a response. I'll send an additional e-mail with the other issues I'm having and attempt to follow up by phone since these issues should be reported to them. I've been a big fan of AE for years but the quality of their product has really gone down with this kit. Hopefully their offroad products are still good. I really want to keep supporting AE but at this point if I buy replacement components such as a bottom chassis plate and additional hinge pins I have no way of knowing if they'll have the same issue that my kit supplied ones have.

If I was newish to the hobby and this was a first time kit after stepping up from an RTR this would be a major turn off and I'd probably walk away from it.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:20 PM   #2848
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Originally Posted by Manson View Post
it s tweaked without any screw and parts. I just received my tc6 4 hours ago
I also received a twisted chassis out of the box with no screws or parts attached. Contact AE customer service, they will most likely ask you to send in the twisted chassis. I got a replacement within 2 weeks, a bit of a stuff around but AE will look after you.

P.s Maybe they reboxed the chassis I sent back and Manson ended up with it!!!
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:42 PM   #2849
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Just got my dial a grips even though they arrivd a few days ago..very fast shipping Nice product Kevin. thanks!

Is anyone using any other inner hinge pins than the AE kit pins? I wanted some titanium ones or maybe something like the losi nitrade coated inner hinge pins.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:19 PM   #2850
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Originally Posted by azz187 View Post
I also received a twisted chassis out of the box with no screws or parts attached. Contact AE customer service, they will most likely ask you to send in the twisted chassis. I got a replacement within 2 weeks, a bit of a stuff around but AE will look after you.

P.s Maybe they reboxed the chassis I sent back and Manson ended up with it!!!
I didnt receive a reply from asso. By the way i ordered a new lowerdeck i can t wait for built it.
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