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Old 06-01-2011, 05:53 PM   #2776
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if you are running a d3 you do have to grind the rotor shaft i used a diamond cutter for the dremel and it worked awesome just be careful it will take a lot of material off fast.
Wow you are good!

I was just about to ask if it was only a D3 issue! I kind of noticed it was a little skimpy on the flat

Thank you!

Dax
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:30 PM   #2777
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Got through with most of my build tonight. Went to check the tweak and the chassis was rocking everywhere. It wasn't rocking due to tweak but lots of countersunk screw heads not sitting flush with the bottom of the chassis. They were in tight but a lot just don't sit flush. Anyone else had this problem? If so did you do additional countersinking or switch screws? Something else strange with the 5mm countersunk screws for the bottom of the chassis is that my 2mm hex driver wouldn't fit in them. I had to use my 2mm ball hex driver to tighten them.
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:59 PM   #2778
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Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Got through with most of my build tonight. Went to check the tweak and the chassis was rocking everywhere. It wasn't rocking due to tweak but lots of countersunk screw heads not sitting flush with the bottom of the chassis. They were in tight but a lot just don't sit flush. Anyone else had this problem? If so did you do additional countersinking or switch screws? Something else strange with the 5mm countersunk screws for the bottom of the chassis is that my 2mm hex driver wouldn't fit in them. I had to use my 2mm ball hex driver to tighten them.
Sounds pretty standard. Honestly, not the best build of the TC's out there. AE gave me a new chassis at the Reedy when I approached them about it, but I have yet to install it and see if it's any better. It had been almost half a year since I had touched a TC, and I just wanted to get on the track already and acclamate myself with just driving again.

What I've been doing to tweak the car is when the top deck is loose, i put my setup blocks underneath the diff and the spool of the car (where there are no screws) and from there I push down on the shock towers like normal before tightening down the deck. (I use the cross bar of my MIP tweak station to push down on the front and rear top towers simultaneously).

After I set the top-deck, I go through and set my droop and ride height. After that whole fiasco, I finally put the car on my tweak bar (MIP style) and it's usually spot on.

Having had an XRAY before this, it was a huge shock to me as well. I know it sounds a little haggard, but this method seems to be working.

Believe it or not, the car handles well despite it not lying flat on your setup board very nicely.

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Old 06-01-2011, 10:23 PM   #2779
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For any of those questioning the durability of the TC6 please watch, and I highly suggest you "do not try this at home". I count 44 hits in this 12 min video, and there was over 50 total minutes before editing a bunch of laps out.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:50 PM   #2780
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Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Got through with most of my build tonight. Went to check the tweak and the chassis was rocking everywhere. It wasn't rocking due to tweak but lots of countersunk screw heads not sitting flush with the bottom of the chassis. They were in tight but a lot just don't sit flush. Anyone else had this problem? If so did you do additional countersinking or switch screws? Something else strange with the 5mm countersunk screws for the bottom of the chassis is that my 2mm hex driver wouldn't fit in them. I had to use my 2mm ball hex driver to tighten them.
I do have the same issue.
I was told that the cause is the thickness of the lower deck being a little too thin. The countersunk won't stay flushed in the chassis.
Moreover, I did CA'd a very thin layer to my chassis's countersunk hole.

The cure is to widen the bulkhead thread a little to accommodate the cone of the countersunk screw head.

What I used is 4mm steel drill bit attached to regular rc tool handle and apply little effort by hand on drilling the bulkhead down by 0.5mm or less to accommodate the countersunk screw head when tightened through the chassis.

-Do not use power tool as it will eat the material too fast and you'll end up with ruined bulkhead.
-Do not use drill bit smaller than 3.5 mm in diameter. Otherwise, it will enjoy eating away the bulkhead thread. (4mm drill bit give successful results.)

Be careful when doing this, take your own risks and good luck.
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:49 AM   #2781
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Originally Posted by b20b View Post
I do have the same issue.
I was told that the cause is the thickness of the lower deck being a little too thin. The countersunk won't stay flushed in the chassis.
Moreover, I did CA'd a very thin layer to my chassis's countersunk hole.

The cure is to widen the bulkhead thread a little to accommodate the cone of the countersunk screw head.

What I used is 4mm steel drill bit attached to regular rc tool handle and apply little effort by hand on drilling the bulkhead down by 0.5mm or less to accommodate the countersunk screw head when tightened through the chassis.

-Do not use power tool as it will eat the material too fast and you'll end up with ruined bulkhead.
-Do not use drill bit smaller than 3.5 mm in diameter. Otherwise, it will enjoy eating away the bulkhead thread. (4mm drill bit give successful results.)

Be careful when doing this, take your own risks and good luck.
I'm not sure that's the issue. If the screws were bottoming out on the bulkheads, the bulkheads wouldn't be tight and it would be really obvious. I think the heads on the kit screws are just a bit thicker than the chassis. Most people just replace the screws for some with slightly shallower heads which gets them to sit flush.

I race on tarmac so I like the screw heads to stick out below the chassis, they act as skid plates and are cheaper to replace than the chassis. I then use a similar method to StickyFingaz when bolting the topdeck on.
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:48 AM   #2782
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If you look closely there are two types of countersunk screws in the kits. Some have writing on the heads, others don't. The ones without text on are shallower so can be used on the underside of the chassis.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:20 AM   #2783
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If you look closely there are two types of countersunk screws in the kits. Some have writing on the heads, others don't. The ones without text on are shallower so can be used on the underside of the chassis.
I've got problems with some of those M3x5 screws as well. Those are the ones that my 2mm hex driver won't fit into. Looking at them closely the insert is cut differently. Intead of a clean hex shape the ones in my kit have a slightly rounded look to the insert on the head producing a slightly "star" shaped insert. I can get my ball driver into them but not the hex driver. The screws with writing on them, M3x6 do stick out a bit higher.

I swapped all my chassis screws to some extra stainless M3x6 RC Screwz I had for my TC5 and they fit a lot better. There are still a few screws not completely flush with the chassis so I'll be lightly countersinking those holes some more. Really hate to countersink carbon fiber since it dulls my countersink bits quickly.

While I'm countersinking the few holes that need doing I think I might drill some more holes and mount up my extra Exotek CF centre battery brace to stop my smaller packs getting pushed into the belt as I'm getting a bit too much movement for my liking.
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:22 AM   #2784
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i found the stock shock springs so soft....so soft that if i lift my car to 5 mm ride height i will have no float! what springs should i get for medium to high traction track? cheers
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:45 AM   #2785
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so what's wrong with the standard arm mounts?

after a hit, do they move, like where abouts?

b/n bushing and mount, or b/n hinge pin and arm mount?


Team Associated TC6 Thread-block.jpg
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:46 AM   #2786
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Originally Posted by dmatter View Post
Wow you are good!

I was just about to ask if it was only a D3 issue! I kind of noticed it was a little skimpy on the flat

Thank you!

Dax
no problem glad i could help.
warren
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:59 AM   #2787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
I've got problems with some of those M3x5 screws as well. Those are the ones that my 2mm hex driver won't fit into. Looking at them closely the insert is cut differently. Intead of a clean hex shape the ones in my kit have a slightly rounded look to the insert on the head producing a slightly "star" shaped insert. I can get my ball driver into them but not the hex driver. The screws with writing on them, M3x6 do stick out a bit higher.

I swapped all my chassis screws to some extra stainless M3x6 RC Screwz I had for my TC5 and they fit a lot better. There are still a few screws not completely flush with the chassis so I'll be lightly countersinking those holes some more. Really hate to countersink carbon fiber since it dulls my countersink bits quickly.

While I'm countersinking the few holes that need doing I think I might drill some more holes and mount up my extra Exotek CF centre battery brace to stop my smaller packs getting pushed into the belt as I'm getting a bit too much movement for my liking.
I would personally be very careful when it comes to deepening the countersink holes in the chassis. They are at that depth for a reason and any deeper could cause them to rip through the chassis. A better suggestion would be to find some screws that do not stick up above the top of the Chassis (or bottom based on how you look at it). I am not sure where AE sources the screws, but I did talk to Bob as Reedy about it and he is going to look into it.

I personally replaced all of my screws with stainless screws and now the chassis fits very flush on my surface. I would not advise anyone put stainless screws in their car because they are a little softer then the regular black oxide screws, but the ones I bought seem to work well.

You can always call customer support as well and let them know you have an issue, it is hard to fix these issues if AE does not know about them. The only way they will know is if customers provide feedback.

I also some some new bits being tested for the car...Not sure if they will be released, but one of them is pretty cool. The other one is a must have! That is about all I can say about that...
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:02 AM   #2788
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
so what's wrong with the standard arm mounts?

after a hit, do they move, like where abouts?

b/n bushing and mount, or b/n hinge pin and arm mount?


Attachment 761415
I think if you use the kit plastic arm mount spacers they're probably okay.

But most racers use alloy spacers instead as the plastic spacers squash over time so aren't very accurate. The reduced surface area (therefore friction) of a small alloy spacer means that the mount/bushing assembly rotates around the screw.

If you read back through this thread there are lots of different solutions:

1. The dial-a-grip arm mounts with grub screws to lock onto the hingepins.
2. The Reflex Dynamics alloy spacers
3. Make some carbon fibre arm mount spacers.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:09 AM   #2789
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
I think if you use the kit plastic arm mount spacers they're probably okay.

But most racers use alloy spacers instead as the plastic spacers squash over time so aren't very accurate. The reduced surface area (therefore friction) of a small alloy spacer means that the mount/bushing assembly rotates around the screw.

If you read back through this thread there are lots of different solutions:

1. The dial-a-grip arm mounts with grub screws to lock onto the hingepins.
2. The Reflex Dynamics alloy spacers
3. Make some carbon fibre arm mount spacers.
the team drivers are all running...the 1/12th scale arm mount spacers:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVSW0&P=M
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:18 AM   #2790
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The shims above still do not keep the arm mounts from rotating. They are great to get your car widths more accurate than the stock plastic spacers though.
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