R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-12-2011, 03:55 PM   #2551
Tech Master
 
Big Features's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Currituck, North Carolina
Posts: 1,871
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I would ask one of your teammates before posting on here.
__________________
Mike Kling
Team Associated REEDY Powered
JConcepts TXD Skin Graphix
Big Features is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 03:58 PM   #2552
Tech Master
 
Rdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maple Valley, WA
Posts: 1,620
Trader Rating: 83 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdog View Post
Hey guys what is invloved in getting a gear diff in the tc6 i ve heard its a yokamo gear diff b ut what mods if any need to be done? Thanks guys
Can anyone tell me?
Rdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 04:01 PM   #2553
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 879
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdog View Post
Can anyone tell me?
You can use the Spec R BD5 40T diff. You will need to ream the out drives. I used a 6.5 chucking reamer with a hand drill. Also you will need to clearance the case as the bearing spacing is to wide for the bulkheads

Last edited by B.JUCHA; 05-12-2011 at 08:32 PM.
B.JUCHA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 04:04 PM   #2554
Tech Elite
 
CristianTabush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,712
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I personally run 650-700 cst oil, which is like 50-55wt oil. If I am on Carpet, I will got to around 800-1000. This is for 17.5 boosted, which should translate well to 13.5 and 17.5 blinky. This is with a Spec R gear diff.

When I attempted going heavier, the car had a tendency to over-rotate on throttle. The 650 wt oil allows me to be more aggressive on throttle without the rear end stepping out on me.
__________________
REFLEX RACING/ RSD/ GIZMO RACING USA/ HOBBYWING/ AXON/ QTEQ/ TEAM PRIME
CristianTabush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 05:14 PM   #2555
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

thanx christian! i cant wait for the reflex parts! i race with jeff cuffs at our home track and cant wait to put em to the test! thanx again
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 06:16 PM   #2556
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,167
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default Caster blocks

Dumb ?

I am installing the 6 degree caster blocks in the Hebert set up. How do I know which is the right side or the left?
goin2drt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 06:52 PM   #2557
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 816
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Dumb ?

I am installing the 6 degree caster blocks in the Hebert set up. How do I know which is the right side or the left?
They should be labeled with small molded-in numbers- 6L & 6R
Serzoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 07:05 PM   #2558
Tech Master
 
Chaz955i's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,012
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Dumb ?

I am installing the 6 degree caster blocks in the Hebert set up. How do I know which is the right side or the left?
If I have a hard time finding a left or right marking I run a hex wrench through the pivot pin hole with the wrench horizontal and see which way the c-hub leans. This will tell me if it is a right or left. If you have a bunch of different degree hubs mixed together this doesn't work so well.
__________________
At The Gate Bizzos
Chaz955i is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 07:33 PM   #2559
Tech Elite
 
CristianTabush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,712
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
thanx christian! i cant wait for the reflex parts! i race with jeff cuffs at our home track and cant wait to put em to the test! thanx again
My pleasure
__________________
REFLEX RACING/ RSD/ GIZMO RACING USA/ HOBBYWING/ AXON/ QTEQ/ TEAM PRIME
CristianTabush is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 07:41 PM   #2560
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,167
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serzoni View Post
They should be labeled with small molded-in numbers- 6L & 6R
Perfect. Thanks so much. Couldn't see them on the side
goin2drt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 09:29 PM   #2561
Tech Master
 
Verndog's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Posted this in another thread but better leave here as well.

Here is what you need to convert the Hot Bodies DCJ driveshafts to fit the TC5 / TC6

Tools: Dremel with 1/8 rotary file - #40 .098 dia. drill bit - 1.5 and 2.0 mm hex drivers and wheel wrench.

Parts: Hot Bodies DCJ 67699 drive shafts - Hot Bodies HB70742 5mm wheel hex's (comes with 4 hex's, pins and screws) - CRC CLN 4741 5mm shims - stock TC6 blades - (4) 3 x 5 x 10 mm wheel bearings.

1) Drill blade pin holes out to .098 dia thru each side at a time and mount blades.

2) Remove C hubs from steering arm and take dremel and open the slot to .375 wide, this leaves .095 wall thickness on each side so watch wall on first side then open second side to keep symmetrical on C hub.

3) Insert new bearings into steering arm then mount up the C hub without the drive shaft for now. Then test fit the drive shaft by sliding thru opening into bearings, it should go thru without hitting now.

4) Mount assembly back into arms, add the new CRC shim, new HB pin (comes with hex kit) and new hex's (nice quality hex BTW), then bench test.

The Good, front drive chatter GONE very smooth, good quality parts. Driveshafts can now be removed without removing C hubs, no set screws to come apart on driveshafts.

The Bad, have to keep another bearing and spare hex size, the driveshafts are press fit pins (no set screw to rebuild), but looks like with some care and good short pin punches they could have new pins pressed in, and for now about $90.00 you have smooth driveshafts with no backups if 1 fails.

Track time will tell later if this was worth it...IMO questionable at this point...but I like for now.
__________________
--->Dial-a-Grip for TC6
Kevin -- PPDBillet---TC6---Exoray 008
---Team Hoarders---
Verndog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-12-2011, 09:36 PM   #2562
Tech Master
 
johnny55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Temple City, Ca
Posts: 1,246
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to johnny55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Posted this in another thread but better leave here as well.

Here is what you need to convert the Hot Bodies DCJ driveshafts to fit the TC5 / TC6

Tools: Dremel with 1/8 rotary file - #40 .098 dia. drill bit - 1.5 and 2.0 mm hex drivers and wheel wrench.

Parts: Hot Bodies DCJ 67699 drive shafts - Hot Bodies HB70742 5mm wheel hex's (comes with 4 hex's, pins and screws) - CRC CLN 4741 5mm shims - stock TC6 blades - (4) 3 x 5 x 10 mm wheel bearings.

1) Drill blade pin holes out to .098 dia thru each side at a time and mount blades.

2) Remove C hubs from steering arm and take dremel and open the slot to .375 wide, this leaves .095 wall thickness on each side so watch wall on first side then open second side to keep symmetrical on C hub.

3) Insert new bearings into steering arm then mount up the C hub without the drive shaft for now. Then test fit the drive shaft by sliding thru opening into bearings, it should go thru without hitting now.

4) Mount assembly back into arms, add the new CRC shim, new HB pin (comes with hex kit) and new hex's (nice quality hex BTW), then bench test.

The Good, front drive chatter GONE very smooth, good quality parts. Driveshafts can now be removed without removing C hubs, no set screws to come apart on driveshafts.

The Bad, have to keep another bearing and spare hex size, the driveshafts are press fit pins (no set screw to rebuild), but looks like with some care and good short pin punches they could have new pins pressed in, and for now about $90.00 you have smooth driveshafts with no backups if 1 fails.

Track time will tell later if this was worth it...IMO questionable at this point...but I like for now.
Nice, keep us posted
__________________
Johnny Hernandez
Fight on!
johnny55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 05:00 AM   #2563
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 645
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I would run start at 70-80 wt oil and go from there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
what are you guys running for oil in gear diff for 17.5 and 13.5 blinky thanx
__________________
TEAM ASSOCIATED, SMC BATTERIES, REEDY MOTORS, JACO TIRES, RADIOPOST RADIOS, LRP ELECTRONICS, PROTOFORM BODIES, MAKITA POWER TOOLS, KICKER PEFORMANCE AUDIO, KOLORS BY KROPY, MUCH-, RSD
Mike Blackstock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 05:05 AM   #2564
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 645
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Posted this in another thread but better leave here as well.

Here is what you need to convert the Hot Bodies DCJ driveshafts to fit the TC5 / TC6

Tools: Dremel with 1/8 rotary file - #40 .098 dia. drill bit - 1.5 and 2.0 mm hex drivers and wheel wrench.

Parts: Hot Bodies DCJ 67699 drive shafts - Hot Bodies HB70742 5mm wheel hex's (comes with 4 hex's, pins and screws) - CRC CLN 4741 5mm shims - stock TC6 blades - (4) 3 x 5 x 10 mm wheel bearings.

1) Drill blade pin holes out to .098 dia thru each side at a time and mount blades.

2) Remove C hubs from steering arm and take dremel and open the slot to .375 wide, this leaves .095 wall thickness on each side so watch wall on first side then open second side to keep symmetrical on C hub.

3) Insert new bearings into steering arm then mount up the C hub without the drive shaft for now. Then test fit the drive shaft by sliding thru opening into bearings, it should go thru without hitting now.

4) Mount assembly back into arms, add the new CRC shim, new HB pin (comes with hex kit) and new hex's (nice quality hex BTW), then bench test.

The Good, front drive chatter GONE very smooth, good quality parts. Driveshafts can now be removed without removing C hubs, no set screws to come apart on driveshafts.

The Bad, have to keep another bearing and spare hex size, the driveshafts are press fit pins (no set screw to rebuild), but looks like with some care and good short pin punches they could have new pins pressed in, and for now about $90.00 you have smooth driveshafts with no backups if 1 fails.

Track time will tell later if this was worth it...IMO questionable at this point...but I like for now.
Did you go faster with these put on your car? I personally have not seen a decrease in laptimes at all . I sometimes think the stock one's help the car get into the corner better were as these make the car push more on corner entry.
__________________
TEAM ASSOCIATED, SMC BATTERIES, REEDY MOTORS, JACO TIRES, RADIOPOST RADIOS, LRP ELECTRONICS, PROTOFORM BODIES, MAKITA POWER TOOLS, KICKER PEFORMANCE AUDIO, KOLORS BY KROPY, MUCH-, RSD
Mike Blackstock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2011, 07:18 AM   #2565
Tech Master
 
Verndog's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Blackstock View Post
Did you go faster with these put on your car? I personally have not seen a decrease in laptimes at all . I sometimes think the stock one's help the car get into the corner better were as these make the car push more on corner entry.
Jury still out on that Mike, but in all honesty I somewhat doubt it will make a very noticeable difference. I was hoping for a bit more consistency on entry and you are saying just the opposite is true. I find that odd, as how does truer running tires with less friction going into corner create more push on entry?
__________________
--->Dial-a-Grip for TC6
Kevin -- PPDBillet---TC6---Exoray 008
---Team Hoarders---
Verndog is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
THE TRACK RACEWAY Apex Mid Atlantic RC Racing 28947 03-17-2017 11:30 AM
Team Associated TC5 RCknight Electric On-Road 13249 01-14-2017 06:34 AM
Team Associated TC6 KostaG Electric On-Road 8 07-04-2010 11:42 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:57 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net