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Old 05-11-2011, 05:20 AM   #2536
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A wider front track should reduce the amount of steering. Looking at the rest of the setup (front springs much stiffer than rear, front oil much thicker than rear) I'm guessing that reducing steering was a priority. These settings would also help to reduce grip-roll.

The change of shock position is probably to account for the wishbones moving outwards, although I guess you really need a hole half-way between A and B to get the shocks back where they would be with a narrower track width.

I've been tempted to space the TC6 out myself (both front and rear) as it runs at about 184mm out of the box. Has anyone else tried this?
You have it right on. They were running the Sweep spec tires and traction roll was a major issue for everyone that weekend.
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:27 AM   #2537
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
A wider front track should reduce the amount of steering. Looking at the rest of the setup (front springs much stiffer than rear, front oil much thicker than rear) I'm guessing that reducing steering was a priority. These settings would also help to reduce grip-roll.

The change of shock position is probably to account for the wishbones moving outwards, although I guess you really need a hole half-way between A and B to get the shocks back where they would be with a narrower track width.

I've been tempted to space the TC6 out myself (both front and rear) as it runs at about 184mm out of the box. Has anyone else tried this?
You've pretty much got it. Spacing the front track out at the inner points reduces weight transfer to the front. The amount he did was pretty significant, so to maintain the same steady-state handling balance he had to bring the front shock to the inner hole to reduce the roll stiffness. A reduction in stiffness also helps with traction roll, since it puts less load on the tire.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:55 AM   #2538
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Hi All,

On that new setup the main reason why I did go wider is because I was trying to get more stability as the car was very grabby. This track is particular but I am positive that this will be a good setup for any other asphalt track because it did have very good steering.

Going inside on the front arm will generaly give you more steering mid corner. The 70 wt oil on the inside actually still feels thinner than let say 55 on the outside with the shock being so far in it makes the shock feel a lot softer. I had 2 cars I was playing with there and one of them had something close to my regular setup and both of them had about the same amount of steering but the new setup was much easier to drive.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #2539
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hi guys just wanting to know want are the bad points with this car as i have had 1 tc5 and 3 tc5r kits never run but built and every kit i had things missing not taped right etc so i sold them straight away i must be totally unlucky or there workmanship is bad.I have been running xray kits from 008-11 kits for awhile now and never any problem with parts or workmanship.so has things picked up with the new kit or are problems still there.im keen as on getting a tc6 but had a bad run with the older kits.thanks
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:26 PM   #2540
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:40 PM   #2541
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Originally Posted by P.I.M.P View Post
hi guys just wanting to know want are the bad points with this car as i have had 1 tc5 and 3 tc5r kits never run but built and every kit i had things missing not taped right etc so i sold them straight away i must be totally unlucky or there workmanship is bad.I have been running xray kits from 008-11 kits for awhile now and never any problem with parts or workmanship.so has things picked up with the new kit or are problems still there.im keen as on getting a tc6 but had a bad run with the older kits.thanks
No issues when building mine.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:52 PM   #2542
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anyone having issues getting droop with the kit settings? nothing binding ,but when shocks removed droop is fine,no limiters in shocks and 67.3 mm length? lost
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:32 PM   #2543
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Mick, which roll center blocks are you running and how much droop are you looking for? Also how are you measuring your shocks?

The shocks on my car measure 63mm measured from the top of the shock cap to the bottom of the lower mounting ball end.

I am on A3 roll centers F/R. If you go lower, you would start having trouble without unscrewing them (as a matter of fact mine are lengthened a bit). Are you sure you are not on the A (lower) hole with like a 1 or 0 block? This would make it hard for the shocks to be long enough, even at 67mm.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:34 PM   #2544
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anyone having issues getting droop with the kit settings? nothing binding ,but when shocks removed droop is fine,no limiters in shocks and 67.3 mm length? lost
sure for that??
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:59 AM   #2545
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Mick, which roll center blocks are you running and how much droop are you looking for? Also how are you measuring your shocks?

The shocks on my car measure 63mm measured from the top of the shock cap to the bottom of the lower mounting ball end.

I am on A3 roll centers F/R. If you go lower, you would start having trouble without unscrewing them (as a matter of fact mine are lengthened a bit). Are you sure you are not on the A (lower) hole with like a 1 or 0 block? This would make it hard for the shocks to be long enough, even at 67mm.
I am on lower hole with 2 dot blocks, from top of shock to bottom is just at 63mm (sorry measured wrong lol) don't the a3 block mounting take away traction? do you run high bite?
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:47 AM   #2546
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Yes, this is the problem. You are on the lower hole. Kit settings are for the upper hole with the 2 dot blocks. This is why you can't get enough droop. You can however look for a longer 4.3mm ball cup for the shock, or unscrew the ones on your car a little bit more.

The 3 hole blocks have a higher roll center by 1mm than the 2 dots. I theory, a lower roll center will create more lateral roll which in turn generates more grip, but this is only to a degree. With low roll centers you have you run stiffer springs and this causes the suspension to have less road compliance, which in turn takes away forward bite on your car.

Ultimately, roll centers can all be made to work, and yes, there are certain ones that will optimize your car to the particular track and grip level. The most important part of roll centers though is to match your roll stiffness to your track conditions. ie, low roll centers with stiff springs and high roll centers with soft springs.

And the track I run on is medium to medium high grip. The roll center blocks I use have worked on high grip carpet and on asphalt. The majority of set-ups use even higher roll centers with the 0 block on the upper hole (B hole). A2 is perhaps even a little bit too low, even on low grip.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:15 PM   #2547
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I'm running the one dot holders in the top screw hole. No issues here either.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:21 PM   #2548
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Anyone have a setup for low grip asphalt 17.5 blinky?
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:56 PM   #2549
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Stock set-up is really pretty good. I would just increase the rear toe to either 3 or 3.5 degrees and maybe change rear oil to 30 or 35wt and you should be very close. This what we have done to the cars of the guys running blinky at our local track and their cars run really well.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:49 PM   #2550
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what are you guys running for oil in gear diff for 17.5 and 13.5 blinky thanx
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