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Old 04-30-2011, 07:24 AM   #2446
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always putting your input on everything??? HAHA

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Haha, i've been pretty quiet lately.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:25 AM   #2447
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This should do the trick





No movement whatsoever in those arms now and no binding.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:37 AM   #2448
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You just squeeze/lock the inner hinge pin and it works? Or did I miss something... If this works then Mr Tabusch won't sell much of his stuff...
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:37 AM   #2449
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There is a second spot in the bulk head for a motor mount screw that you can use so you don't need a spur with holes in it.
Dude....you are a genius. I never would have seen that had I not read your post. so funny. I guess sometimes you just gotta change the way you look at things.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:46 AM   #2450
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You just squeeze/lock the inner hinge pin and it works? Or did I miss something... If this works then Mr Tabusch won't sell much of his stuff...
Probably not as factory as Cristian's awesome stuff though!
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:14 AM   #2451
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This should do the trick

No movement whatsoever in those arms now and no binding.
I've already done that to my stock blocks and will test today.

The stock block material is pretty darn soft and weak and they will strip very easily, unfortunatly I dont expect them to hold long, but surely will help.

I plan to build some #0 and #1 alum. lock blocks prob. this next week, I'll make a couple hundred of them for anyone else interested in a permanent fix.
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Last edited by Verndog; 04-30-2011 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:46 AM   #2452
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After going over the car after first full day out I noticed what others have mentioned. The arm mount blocks pivoted some and all 4 arms that started the day with zero slop, finished with more then I care for. Didn't hit much either so something needs to change there.

Considering building alum. arm mount blocks that have an outside set screw that would lock the pin. This would eliminate all pin slop and put an end to block pivot issue.


Anyone else found resolution to this? I suppose eliminating the shim washers would help some by increasing block seat contact. Another option is to find small serrated washers that bite in enough to eliminate pivot.
Two solutions:

Carbon fibre arm mount spacers. I made a set of these and roughened the surface of the spacers, blocks and bulkheads to increase the friction. Now it only moves after a crash, which is fine as I'd rather that than have something snap.

Schumacher Mi4 hingepins, which are internally threaded at the ends. Drill the arm mounts out and you can then put a screw through the blocks into the hingepins. You'll need to trim 1mm from the end of each hingepin as they're too long. Have a look at the Mi4 manual to see how this works.
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:25 AM   #2453
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Default steering issue

dear all, i run into another issue again assembling my new TC6 KIT, i have assembled the front as per the instructons but i found that when i try to turn the steering blocks to MAX left/right, the steering link would have its way blocked by the camber block under it, what is the solution to this prblem? thx!
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:02 AM   #2454
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dear all, i run into another issue again assembling my new TC6 KIT, i have assembled the front as per the instructons but i found that when i try to turn the steering blocks to MAX left/right, the steering link would have its way blocked by the camber block under it, what is the solution to this prblem? thx!
When you say "camber block" do you actually mean the lower arm mount?

If you run the 0B mounts the steering links do hit the arm mounts. The simplest solution is to swap the front hubs left-to-right, which also reduces the bumpsteer. Most team driver cars are this way if you look at the pictures.
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:29 PM   #2455
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Originally Posted by Molala4 View Post
dear all, i run into another issue again assembling my new TC6 KIT, i have assembled the front as per the instructons but i found that when i try to turn the steering blocks to MAX left/right, the steering link would have its way blocked by the camber block under it, what is the solution to this prblem? thx!
This may sound weird, but I think it might be that the droop screws need to be turned in more so that the arms are not at full extension.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:11 PM   #2456
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Why is the most recent setup listed on teamassociated.com from 3.20.11? Surely other setups have been used by the team.
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:32 AM   #2457
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Can someone tell me exactly how the Spec R diffs need to be modified to fit??
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Old 05-02-2011, 05:06 AM   #2458
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Can someone tell me exactly how the Spec R diffs need to be modified to fit??
Internal diamter of the outdrives needs to be increased to fit the 'balls' on the end of the driveshafts. I used a 6.5mm drill bit on a pillar drill.

The case needs to be shaved back by about .5mm on each side where the bearing pushes over to bring the bearings closer to the centre.

That's it.

HTH
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:06 AM   #2459
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Why is the most recent setup listed on teamassociated.com from 3.20.11? Surely other setups have been used by the team.
That setup was from not even a month ago...that seems pretty recent to me.

To be honest the setups listed are really good...if you are looking for a good carpet setup I would try Keven's US Indoor Championships setup. I found this setup really good for med-high grip carpet. I only made a few changes that made the car a little better at my home track.

As for outdoor setup...I know there are some good setups on Petitrc, and I would expect to see a new setup posted after Reedy for outdoor. Juho, Keven, and even more will be in attendance so I would expect to see some new setups from that.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ociatedTC6.htm

Once these guys find a good setup they do not tend to stray from it. The AE team has been working hard on the setups they have and now only fine tune from the base setup for 90% of all of the races they attend. This is the case for most of the top drivers.
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:36 AM   #2460
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Default Drive Train

just how free is the drive train meant to be, on the car my son has a mi4 and there is no friction all most at all, yet my car seem's to have a fair bit more, it is very smooth just a bit stiff i think, can anyone one think of what is making this happen or is this normal for the car.
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