Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Associated TC6 Thread >

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree20Likes

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-29-2011, 01:11 PM
  #2416  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,819
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Hey Kevin, make me a set if you like the design. I trust ya.
JayBee is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:15 PM
  #2417  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
CristianTabush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 3,165
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wtcc
Simpler sounds good! What about the full length arm mount shims that were "promised" some pages earlier which should cover this problem?
Originally Posted by Verndog
Not sure about simpler, I could have 8 of those done and on my car before I went home today. Quick, cheap and simple to build in 1 machine operation.

I still prefer my setscrew idea as it also deals and resolves pin slop....2 birds with 1 stone.

It's a shim, that keeps the arms from moving. It integrates a set-screw, and it is the same L to R. We use aluminum washers to space out the car still. We could get them done quickly, but as any part that we want to produce is, we want to be able to manufacture in large quantities. We are not a "custom machine shop" - we are a manufacturer and we have to be able to service a much larger audience at a good price. This is not a cheap product either, because you have 8 mounts on a car and you must use at least 4 and up to 8 of these shims on a car- regardless of design.
CristianTabush is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:58 PM
  #2418  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Verndog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: PPDBillet.com USA
Posts: 1,845
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey Kevin, make me a set if you like the design. I trust ya.
Got ya covered. First I'll try the .79c design, serrated washers and tap the stock blocks and see if that will hold on Saturday. If not then onto overkill mode.

BTW those that are having this problem using the 0 or 1 blocks are most prone since the longer length gives more leverage to move the pin block.
Verndog is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 03:30 PM
  #2419  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 50
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default One-way diff

Hello,

After spending 3 days reading I did not see much on a one-way for the TC6. Has anyone gotten the TC5 one-way to work in the TC6?

Thanks
Jeff
Mr Granone is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:08 PM
  #2420  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
big al's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Olympia,Wa
Posts: 1,056
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

oneways aren't used too much these days. The spool has been the thing to use for a few years now and the gear diff is making a resurgence in a big way.
big al is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:16 PM
  #2421  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (77)
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,167
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default Spur gear

Guys, I know I saw this somewhere. Sorry but what spurs work with the TC6? My RW spur does not. I can not get the back motor screw in.

Thanks.
goin2drt is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:53 PM
  #2422  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 19
Default spool /diff screw question

hi all! i just got my TC6 kit and just started building it then i come across this question.... the screw for the spool and diff is like so too short that i can never get it locked into the lock nut.....what can i do then? thx
Molala4 is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:56 PM
  #2423  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,511
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Molala4
hi all! i just got my TC6 kit and just started building it then i come across this question.... the screw for the spool and diff is like so too short that i can never get it locked into the lock nut.....what can i do then? thx
Make sure the nut is pushed all the way down in the black holder. Should fix the issue!

Also make sure you crimp the spring with pliers...
artwork is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:06 PM
  #2424  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 19
Default

Originally Posted by artwork
Make sure the nut is pushed all the way down in the black holder. Should fix the issue!

Also make sure you crimp the spring with pliers...

yeah i have done both......: ( still not working...
Molala4 is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:11 PM
  #2425  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
 
corallyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonds, Wash
Posts: 4,707
Trader Rating: 101 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Molala4
yeah i have done both......: ( still not working...

By all the way down he does not mean flush, he means like its almost possible to put a second nut on top of the first, at least this is how it was with the TC5 and I don't think anything has changed from these parts in the tc6.
corallyman is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:20 PM
  #2426  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 19
Default

Originally Posted by corallyman
By all the way down he does not mean flush, he means like its almost possible to put a second nut on top of the first, at least this is how it was with the TC5 and I don't think anything has changed from these parts in the tc6.

OIC i i will try! thx a million!!
Molala4 is offline  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:42 PM
  #2427  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 9
Default

This really happened to me! Make sure that you don't have one of those small round spacers wedged in the diff outdrive. I had a blue aluminum one somehow get into a blue aluminum outdrive so it blended right in. Then the screw of course went right through, but was never long enough. Spent the whole night and next morning trying to get the thing to cinch down. With the grease in there holding it in it was not going anywhere. I thought maybe a ball bearing was stuck in there some how and out came the little 2mm spacer instead. Went together the next try.
lpddpd is offline  
Old 04-30-2011, 03:01 AM
  #2428  
Tech Rookie
 
mcdomdom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 8
Default

Originally Posted by goin2drt
Guys, I know I saw this somewhere. Sorry but what spurs work with the TC6? My RW spur does not. I can not get the back motor screw in.

Thanks.
Hi! The RW spur would work, but you have to use the third hole for the motor screw, which is under your pinion!

Hope I can help you!

Greets
mcdomdom is offline  
Old 04-30-2011, 03:11 AM
  #2429  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,819
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, I'm really a bag of mixed nuts right now with the purchase of this new kit and a couple of other manufacturers hopups for this car. Reading all these issues with tweaked chassis'/motor mount issues, screws, cheap bearings, shock pistons and CVD's is REALLY having me considering selling all that I have purchased. Someone PLEASE CONVINCE ME otherwise. PLEASE
JayBee is offline  
Old 04-30-2011, 04:00 AM
  #2430  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
 
StickyFingaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: East Bay, CA
Posts: 703
Trader Rating: 17 (90%+)
Default

Started my build tonight... Can't get my car to sit flat on my setup board with the top deck on!

What gives? I know what I'm doing.... pop the top deck off and it's flat as a board. None of the bulkheads are bent.

Anyone have any ideas? This is a major buzzkill. If this is a sign of what's to come, then I've obviously picked the wrong color car this year.
StickyFingaz is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.