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Old 04-04-2011, 07:53 AM   #2161
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Hi,

anyone using a Savox server, which server horn did you use .. A, J ,F, H?

I cant seem to fit any to my savox 1251 - they all seem to small - unless one is correct but really tight?
Today I installed a servo where the 'J' horn was really tight but still fit so you may need to find one that is real close and push really hard.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:56 AM   #2162
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I used the F servo horn. Just pressed it on gently with a vice until it bottomed out. The plastic hole/splines are a little too small, but it's the right spline pattern. I've hit the boards hard lots of times since, no issues.
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:24 AM   #2163
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1. Fill shock
2. Let air bubbles dissipate (or whatever method you prefer to use; pump etc)
3. Place the bladder over the top of the body lightly holding it in position
4. Push shaft up until 10% of the shaft is still showing. Oil will bleed out.
5. Place cap on and screw up.

If you want 25% then keep a quarter of the shaft showing while pushing up or for 50% half the shaft
done !! but i swap step 3 & 4.....as
3. Push shaft up until 10% for 10% rebound.
4. Place the bladder over the top of the body lightly holding it in position.
Oil will bleed out.

thanks
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:37 AM   #2164
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Originally Posted by saarnold View Post
Hi,

anyone using a Savox server, which server horn did you use .. A, J ,F, H?

I cant seem to fit any to my savox 1251 - they all seem to small - unless one is correct but really tight?
Same issue with the 1257, says to use F. Sucks to have to jam it on there...
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:26 AM   #2165
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yep I use the savox 1251 too, the spline on the savox seems too big for the required 'F' servo horn. Just line the teeth up correctly and use a vice slowly.

had a couple of runs with the tc6 today, car is really good on kit settings. I'm looking forward to a whole season with this car
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:26 PM   #2166
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thanks for the server horn response guys, I generally like things to "fit" rather than jamming them or forcing them together, but if that is what I need to do then all is good.

further question...

Do i need to provide power to the server first to "seed" its initial position before putting the horn on and do people cut the server cord to make it shorter to place nicely into the receiver?

Thanks for all you help and advice
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:59 PM   #2167
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Well sad to say my new tc6 kit has had a defective part and missing one as well . But on the bright side I would say that associated has some of the best customer support i have ever had to deal with. as soon as i called them about the miss/defective parts they asked for my address and the part numbers and told me the parts were on the way .
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:07 PM   #2168
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I also had missing parts (2 of them). I emailed support with the part numbers and they told me they are on there way to me. Great customer service
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:11 PM   #2169
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Originally Posted by saarnold View Post
thanks for the server horn response guys, I generally like things to "fit" rather than jamming them or forcing them together, but if that is what I need to do then all is good.

further question...

Do i need to provide power to the server first to "seed" its initial position before putting the horn on and do people cut the server cord to make it shorter to place nicely into the receiver?

Thanks for all you help and advice
Power the servo before installing making sure you start withe servo sub- trim at 0 and the trim in the central position. Install the horn and make sub trim adjustment after the servo is installed.

Shorting the wire in unnecessary. You can bundled it with shrink tubing or a zip tie.
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:28 PM   #2170
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Is anyone running the regular arms (not the kit hard arms) in asphalt yet? I see most setups running with sway bars and combine that with hard arms seems like possibly overkill. I have yet to make first run yet but I'll give it a go, just curious.
i would agree verndog! hard arms on asphalt are only needed if the bite is insanely high
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:42 PM   #2171
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Hey TC6 owners, have any of you guys converted from the T3 2011? If so, why? 3 cars are on my list and this feels like the hardest decision that I've had to make (regarding R/C) in a long time. Any build issues with this car? What about gear diffs...are they available? Parts availability isn't a consideration btw...
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:48 PM   #2172
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There is no official gear diff for the tc6 I don't think... One reason I haven't added a tc6 to the garage yet. Any info on a working gear diff would be appreciated
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:03 PM   #2173
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The yokomo gear diff, or spec-r for the yokomo work. I believe you have to open up the outdrive for the ball of the AE dogbones (aside from shimming it a bit.
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:14 PM   #2174
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There is no official gear diff for the tc6 I don't think... One reason I haven't added a tc6 to the garage yet. Any info on a working gear diff would be appreciated
The latest issue of Racing Lines has a pic of Andrew Abbot's TC6 with a gear diff, and going by his setup sheets on the AE site its a "Rspec gear"
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:12 PM   #2175
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Hey TC6 owners, have any of you guys converted from the T3 2011? If so, why? 3 cars are on my list and this feels like the hardest decision that I've had to make (regarding R/C) in a long time. Any build issues with this car? What about gear diffs...are they available? Parts availability isn't a consideration btw...
Just buy it already!

Gear diff takes a mod of outdrives, some say 5 minutes, to me that means 1/2 hour minimum because I'm a thinker.

JayBee...here is my post on build...unreal how balance and total weight ended...awesome! Big improvement over TC5 IMO.

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