nitro rat

iTrader: (5)

i Think this will be the car to buy
Hopefully its good on low traction asphalt

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Will have it finished soon and post a completed pic, but for now

daleburr

Is everyone else (including the AE team drivers) running the standard servo saver spring?

It seems very soft to me, I'm tempted to try one off another car. Tightening the nut up doesn't really help; this just reduces the travel rather than making it much stiffer.

Redwood

Hi guys,

I have had my TC6 now since the Euro release back in November (I think) but held off my initial impressions until I had sufficient track time to judge it.

Now after my first big event last Sunday I can safely say that this car is truly excellent.

I ran a TC5 for 2 years and eventually got it setup so that it did approximately what I told it, however I never felt 100% confident in it and it always seemed to lack rear grip.

So then I got the TC6 and set it up in kit settings and took it out at my local club where we run rubber tyres on carpet with no additive. I immediately felt like it had better corner speed but the lack of rear grip was still there! I turned my steering down on the transmitter and it was better but still tended to break rear traction on high speed corners.

I then changed to Keven Heberts setup, but with a long rear upper camber link as I like the long link, and felt it was probably the main factor in the increased corner speeds. I actually felt this setup felt pretty similar to the kit setting, with still too little rear grip, so I went for the shorter rear camber link - NOTE: If you want to use the 6 holes on the shock tower then you need a different turnbuckle than the kit one, you cannot make the kit version short enough, major pain. - This was immediately better.

I still wasn't that happy, so I decided to try Olly Jefferies' setup, as he has been tearing up the UK scene with his TC6. The main differences seem to be 6 degrees castor - NOTE: 6 degree C hubs do not come with the kit, you have to buy these - and an angled front wishbone to compensate. He also uses the shorter rear camber link. This setup is amazing in my opinion, it suits my driving extremely well too, the corner speed is amazing, initial turn in is so direct and the rear is planted.

With this setup I have probably found a few tenths over my TC5, maybe even 0.5s. Sheer lap speed is nice but the best thing is probably the consistency this car has, you can turn your fastest lap every lap, it is just so smooth and reliable, you can easily improve your times by 10s over 5 minutes with this over a TC5.

I currently run diff front and rear (ball diffs), as the kit comes with enough parts to make 2 diffs, or one ball, one slipper however if you want to run a spool I think this setup will be just as good, since there is so much turn in, you can afford to lose some with the spool.

The setup is here: http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/pro...lly_ardent.pdf

If you have a TC5 and are thinking of making the switch, don't delay! You will be a couple of positions better off I can guarantee it!

Well done associated, the car doesn't look so much different, and I don't have to buy a new box of spares but it sure can go some.

Regards

Neal

hacker

iTrader: (141)

I dont understand how shortening the rear camber link would improve your rear traction problem.

mos-leung

Did you try this setup (6deg caster,shorter rear camber link) on your TC5?
Any improvement as TC6?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

A shorter link generates an increased camber if the tire moves upwards. This effect can stabilize the rear of the car if the camber increases to a value that enlarges the area where the tire touches the ground .

jag88

iTrader: (1)

I felt the same way and removed the spring and put an Associated servo saver ( pt#25162, XP/Futaba) on the servo.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

I always go for a shorter camber link to make cars rotate more, less rear grip.

and below also is what I have in my secret stash

Redwood

You are right that a shorter link doesn't directly give you more grip but a more angled link will change the roll centre and give more grip. If you want to run the long links on a TC6 then you have to add shims to the outer ballstud to get the angle. To get enough grip you need to add about 5mm like in Christer Andersson's setup, however with 5mm of shims under the ballstud it will rub on the wheels so you have to widen the car with hex spacers. My wheels meant that this wasn't possible so I stayed with 3mm shims and went to a shorter link, increasing the angle and rear grip.

Also as said, a shorter upper link gives you more reactive camber, but too short and you get too much camber in the corner and lose grip again.

Regards

Neal

hacker

iTrader: (141)

I guess whatever works for you. I'm not 2nd guessing anyone, I have alot to learn in regards of setup. Just didnt sound right, to me that is. But setting up is half the fun, and its great with forums like these, ideas and experience can all be shared.

have fun!

S_fender

Hi,

A little question for Rick or anyone who can answer at associated :
It seems that the ackerman table on page 23 isn't correct. Where can i found the correct table (not found on Asso web site).

Thank you
Sébastien.

zaranza

BUCKAROO,
which marks short of the links you bought? was of the tc5 ?


Got a chance to run my TC6 tonight. Only had a busted LTC-R body to run, so I made do. I'm running the Herbert Indoor Champs set up, mostly. Still running the long camber links, black ball studs, and using a #2 piston and 40 weight oil as kit parts until my short links, silver ball studs, and blank piston arrive. Got me a new Boss 17.5 and a Tekin RS. Rolling Sorex 24s.

f1o7x9

iTrader: (1)

What would be the best gear diff that I can buy for my Tc6

jorgesimes

I think you can use these:
FT Blue Titanium Turnbuckles, 1.375"/35mm