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Old 02-13-2011, 09:00 AM   #1786
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Just had a closer look at my chassis. I see what you're getting at actually.

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Old 02-13-2011, 10:56 AM   #1787
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I rechecked if the steeringblock touches the wishbone, but it clears (droop setting 6mm) by one millimeter. I am a little surprised now, because in a german rc forum someone mentioned the problem and I checked it at my car then and it really touched. Now it is OK... but

Sorry, I didn't want to irritate you guys.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:29 PM   #1788
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I rechecked if the steeringblock touches the wishbone, but it clears (droop setting 6mm) by one millimeter. I am a little surprised now, because in a german rc forum someone mentioned the problem and I checked it at my car then and it really touched. Now it is OK... but

Sorry, I didn't want to irritate you guys.
I have this issue with 5mm droop; the knuckle arm hits the rollbar mount on the wishbone. With 6mm droop you'll probably just about get away with it, depending on the amount of camber.

Dremel easily fixes it.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:06 PM   #1789
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Being new to onroad I wasn't familiar with how you adjust droop on a touring car (nor why that is important). I was struggling to get my car to handle well and kept re-checking my setup. At one point I asked the guy across from me what the little set screws in the front arms were for as I had just screwed them in half-way from the top and they didn't appear to do anything. And that's when I learned how to set droop.

I haven't re-checked the manual but it seems like something that wasn't very clear during assembly. After I set it correctly the car handled ten times better and I started turning much faster laps.

So if you're a noob to onroad like I am, make sure you've set your droop properly. For that matter, have someone who knows what they're doing walk through your whole setup with you as one tiny setting can have a huge effect on handling.

One other thing I had messed up was the steering curve on my 4PK. When I first ran the car the guy helping me told me to set the curve to minus 30 so it would be less twitchy with minor adjustments. When I did so I failed to look closely at the graph and notice that since my servo is reversed on the radio the curve needed to be set to +30, not -30. So I had inadvertently made my steering WAY twitchier for my first time out.

Good news is: now the car is dialed, I've learned a ton, and I'm having a lot more fun!
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:55 PM   #1790
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Has anyone run a P-37r body on the tc6?
I just bought one to be different but I can't find any feed back on it yet??
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:03 PM   #1791
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wondering if anyone is running a spec r gear diff and if so, much much dremel work was involved in getting the dogbones to fit into the outdrives.

gear diff itself dropped straight in perfectly
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:15 PM   #1792
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Has anyone run a P-37r body on the tc6?
I just bought one to be different but I can't find any feed back on it yet??
Yes. Slightly more agressive than a Speed6. Not nearly as neutral as the Mazda 6. Strange, since it was supposed to be the new "neutral" a la the old Stratus. I'd place it between a Speed 6 and the LTC-R.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:03 AM   #1793
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does anyone have this kind of apps for Iphone ??
how does is go ?

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...s_iPhone_App_/
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:20 AM   #1794
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Yes. Slightly more agressive than a Speed6. Not nearly as neutral as the Mazda 6. Strange, since it was supposed to be the new "neutral" a la the old Stratus. I'd place it between a Speed 6 and the LTC-R.
Thanks Buckaroo, did you like it's handling? Would you recommend it?
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:22 AM   #1795
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Yeah, you need to drill out the outdrives using a 6mm bit. Additional clearance is needed so the ball on the end of the dog bone can pivot freely.

Also, you need to shave about 1mm off the section where the bearing pushes over the diff case on both sides so they sit further towards the centre.

That's it! Easy to fit.

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wondering if anyone is running a spec r gear diff and if so, much much dremel work was involved in getting the dogbones to fit into the outdrives.

gear diff itself dropped straight in perfectly
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:28 AM   #1796
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Thanks Buckaroo, did you like it's handling? Would you recommend it?
I found my fastest and most consistent lap times on our indoor track with a Speed 6 and LTC-R with my particular set up, which is a slightly modified Herbert Indoor Champs set up. Your mileage may vary! I use body shell performance as a secondary tuning tool, after chassis set up and tire selection.

The track that I'm on is 92x37 feet ozite carpet, with one narrow sweeper into a 2/3rds straight/dogleg. The rest of the track is mid speed semi-technical. LOTS of fast talent at my track in 17.5 non-boosted. 11 second flat lap averages/mid 30s get you into the A. 12 flat/30 is a solid B main. I'm a high C main driver(my first season back on carpet in over 8 years) with a 13 second flat/28 lap average.

As far as I know, none of the really fast guys are running the P37, on any chassis. The spread is mostly Mazda6/Speed6, with a few LTC-Rs and R9-Rs.

It all really depends on your particular set up and traction conditions for the day. Just one more tuning tool. I usually go to the track with at least 2 different bodies and try both in warm ups, along with tires, to get my best tune for the day, usually settling down for the third qual and the main.

That said, I'm mostly saving the P37 for testing on our outdoor 150x80 outdoor asphalt, on which we change the layout weekly. Have to see how it turns in compared to the Mazda/LTC-R at higher speeds.
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Last edited by Buckaroo; 02-14-2011 at 06:11 AM.
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Old 02-14-2011, 01:06 PM   #1797
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Thanks Buckaroo,
I race on a med-large high seed outdoor track so i'll see how it runs.
I've always had a speed6 and stratus in the past.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:29 PM   #1798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
Yeah, you need to drill out the outdrives using a 6mm bit. Additional clearance is needed so the ball on the end of the dog bone can pivot freely.

Also, you need to shave about 1mm off the section where the bearing pushes over the diff case on both sides so they sit further towards the centre.

That's it! Easy to fit.
awesome. thanks !
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:49 PM   #1799
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I will soon be buying a new touring car. Iíve been out of the RC loop for a few years but want to get back in the next month or so. Doing a lot of research and want to make sure I get the right car. I have narrowed down to a TC6 or T3 2011. Other possibilities were the TCX ,TRF417 and BD5.

Has anyone had experience with any of these along with the TC6? Are there any gotcha's when doing the kit build and what parts / hop-ups if any would
I need when doing the build?

I will mainly be racing 17.5 spec on mid to low traction asphalt and want a car that is easy to setup and drive. I've owned a TRF414 and TC3 in the past. My main concerns with the Xray and Tamiya are that they come out with new kits way too often. I'd like my initial investment to last me awhile.

Any thoughts and feedback would be appreciated.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:27 AM   #1800
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Originally Posted by dreadwing View Post
I will soon be buying a new touring car. Iíve been out of the RC loop for a few years but want to get back in the next month or so. Doing a lot of research and want to make sure I get the right car. I have narrowed down to a TC6 or T3 2011. Other possibilities were the TCX ,TRF417 and BD5.

Has anyone had experience with any of these along with the TC6? Are there any gotcha's when doing the kit build and what parts / hop-ups if any would
I need when doing the build?

I will mainly be racing 17.5 spec on mid to low traction asphalt and want a car that is easy to setup and drive. I've owned a TRF414 and TC3 in the past. My main concerns with the Xray and Tamiya are that they come out with new kits way too often. I'd like my initial investment to last me awhile.

Any thoughts and feedback would be appreciated.
I've got some experience of the TCX. The driveshafts are made of cheese; the fronts have to be replaced as they can't cope with a spool. Spares availability is dreadful worldwide, if you read the TCX thread you'll see people fitting other brands of parts as they can't get HPI bits.

I believe the 417 is excellent, although very expensive, and sure to be upgraded within 12 months.

The TC6 comes with everything you need, no option parts are needed (apart from a couple of pairs of shock springs for tuning, but thats true of any car). And being an Associated you know this will be their top kit for the next few years with no major upgrades needed. Spares are readily available and cheap, and there's setups available for most conditions. Olly Jefferies Moto Arena setup is spot on for low/mid grip asphalt:

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/tea...ter=0000005481
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