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Old 02-11-2011, 03:27 AM   #1756
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Originally Posted by hanzo3 View Post
Where can I get new arm mounts and the arm mount bushing?
AMain has them in stock.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:40 AM   #1757
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Your right Dalebur, I will stick with it! Everybody says how great of a car it is on the track. Rear camber links hit rear shock tower, hinge pins did not fit in arms ,steering knuckles or rear uprights. The instructions are the worst. Sorry to be ranting but I'm letting off a little steam guy's. I'm sure it will be fine thou.
You'll scrape the chassis and traction roll LONG before the rear camber link will hit the shock tower on the track. As for the hinge pins, that's a molding issue that every manufacturer has with thier plastics (some are better than others, though). Get some hinge pin reamers if it bothers you, otherwise it'll loosen up in the first battery pack or two and go away.

I agree that the instruction manual needs lots of help, though. Defies logic that AE has stuck with a known bad one for so long when they have the ability to publish the corrected one!
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Old 02-11-2011, 04:47 AM   #1758
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Every company should copy Tamiya's instruction manuals. Scale pictures of the hardware! What a novel idea, no more messing with calipers or guessing between screws that are a millimeter's difference from eachother. Just hold it up to the picture and you know if you have the right size.
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:21 AM   #1759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkonking View Post
Your right Dalebur, I will stick with it! Everybody says how great of a car it is on the track. Rear camber links hit rear shock tower, hinge pins did not fit in arms ,steering knuckles or rear uprights. The instructions are the worst. Sorry to be ranting but I'm letting off a little steam guy's. I'm sure it will be fine thou.
I think the car is a fantastic design (like 99% of the cars AE have ever designed), but it's now let down by poor tolerancing due to cheap Chinese manufacturing. My hingepins were actually a little loose, so the tolerance is quite large.

Almost all RC cars are now the same though, I've heard of or seen tolerancing issues with the TCX (worse than the Cyclone), BD5 (worse than the BD), Mi4CX and T3. Tamiyas may still be okay as they probably do enough volume to still make stuff in-house, but you certainly pay for the privilege of owning one (the 417 is about twice the price of a TC6).
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:00 AM   #1760
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
AMain has them in stock.
Cuz my lhs doesn't have them. I bought this car bc I thought parts were easier to get
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:39 AM   #1761
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ive made these to try sunday 52.5 long 3mm silver steel
drilled & taped ends 2mm
then made tube with 2mm hole to insert into block so 2mm hole is in central
should stop them moving
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:48 AM   #1762
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Originally Posted by hanzo3 View Post
Cuz my lhs doesn't have them. I bought this car bc I thought parts were easier to get
....and they will be easier to get, but it's a brand new car, for crying out loud! EVERY manufacturer has spares for stocking at local hobby stores lagging behind when a new car first goes out. Heck, the second wave of kits is only just NOW hitting the shelves!

You would perhaps prefer that they sent out spare parts BEFORE boxing up complete kits?

In any case, with the exception of the 0, the 1, 2, and 3 arm mounts are the same as the TC5, and in a pinch, TC5 arm mount bushings can have their threads drilled out and work as an emergency repiar. The bushings are pretty hard to screw up, though.
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Last edited by Buckaroo; 02-11-2011 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:07 AM   #1763
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Josh, do you have a tc6 carpet setup? I have used your tc5 setups in the past. thanks
I just got my tc-6 back 2 weeks ago. I loaned it to one of the other guys on the team for cleveland and had not seen it since.

I had done a lot of testing before I had loaned it out. I really liked starting with Keven's setup from timezone.
Off the top of my head I changed the wheelbase to long in the rear, no rear sway bar and ran flat pins in the front (no anti-dive) with a 3-a mount in the front and 0-b in the rear.
The rest I believe was very close to what Keven used.

I also prefer the car with a 2 joint cvd in the front, I used the hot bodies dcj's and had to do a little grinding on the castor block.

The stock cvd's do work fine and go the same speed on the track, they just drive a little different. More bind gives it more weight transfer to the front in the turns.

So.....long story short...........I will see if I can get something posted soon to give you guys some more setup options.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:15 AM   #1764
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Can someone please post some detailed pics of TC6 from the top, both sides, front and rear
Thanx!
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:04 PM   #1765
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Take a look at Redrc...ETS page. There are TC6 photos in the gallery from this weekends ETS!
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:10 PM   #1766
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
....and they will be easier to get, but it's a brand new car, for crying out loud! EVERY manufacturer has spares for stocking at local hobby stores lagging behind when a new car first goes out. Heck, the second wave of kits is only just NOW hitting the shelves!

You would perhaps prefer that they sent out spare parts BEFORE boxing up complete kits?

In any case, with the exception of the 0, the 1, 2, and 3 arm mounts are the same as the TC5, and in a pinch, TC5 arm mount bushings can have their threads drilled out and work as an emergency repiar. The bushings are pretty hard to screw up, though.
Associated has had "most" spare parts available before any kits were shipped out. The arm mounts and posts have been available since the end of Oct. 2010, in fact we have then in stock now.
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:22 PM   #1767
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can some one give me a pointer?
i'm running olly's set up from ardent raceway(off ae site) and has been very good, however the track im on this weekend is very very low grip and it was like a drift car tonight.
were would be a good /simple place to give me some more rear end grip?
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:29 PM   #1768
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Originally Posted by muststopcrashin View Post
can some one give me a pointer?
i'm running olly's set up from ardent raceway(off ae site) and has been very good, however the track im on this weekend is very very low grip and it was like a drift car tonight.
were would be a good /simple place to give me some more rear end grip?
A little more rear toe should help. Also a shorter wheelbase should help with forward bite.
How you sauce your tires also makes a big difference. Try saucing the rears for much longer than the fronts.
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:36 PM   #1769
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thanks, i allready have 3* would 3.5* or 4* be to much? rear toe
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:53 AM   #1770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-oz View Post
ive made these to try sunday 52.5 long 3mm silver steel
drilled & taped ends 2mm
then made tube with 2mm hole to insert into block so 2mm hole is in central
should stop them moving
I've been thinking of doing this myself; Schumacher Mi4 hingepins if trimmed down 1mm at each end should work, as they are already tapped out.

I'm going to try carbon spacers first with a roughened surface to give more bite. If that doesn't fix it, I'll be taking the Mi4 approach with screws in the end.
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