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Old 02-07-2011, 05:11 AM   #1711
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Yeah on a good day!

No motorways so a bit of a pain.


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Originally Posted by muststopcrashin View Post
will do mate, what is it about 1.5 hours for you, i think its worth the trip my be?
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:10 AM   #1712
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Default LRP-HPI-Challenge Günzburg

On sunday I participated with the TC6 in the race for the LRP-HPI-Challenge in Günzburg. Günzburg has a temporarily build medium/high grip carpet track. The car with my setup for Senden was fast from the first lap on. Maybe a little to good, because I had problems to analyze the weak points of the setup. In the end I changed the green springs with silver ones in the rear. I also tried 4mm shims for the outer camber link in the rear. It gives the rear axle more grip and the car turned much better in combination with the silver springs. That was all.
I was fastest in the first round of qualifying and drove the fastest lap in the following two qualifyings. Unfortunately I wasn't able to do this laptimes on and on, so in the end I was only the third fastest on the timetable, but got the second spot for the finals.
Again I achieved the fastest lap in the first A-final and was able to push the leader for some laps. Then he maybe awakened and gave me some meters. Unfortunately my follower on third spot crashed in my back and pushed my rear body under my wheels This cost a lot of time before it was pulled out again. Then the body abraded on the tires and made my car behave strange. I was still able to hold on spot four and was trying to catch back third place when my body got stuck again. This time I stopped the car and bend it back myself. Now fifth I chased the fourth, but made a stupid mistake which launched my car with around 38km/h over the curbs into the wall The car suffered damage which ended the first race for me... Luckily the C-hubs survived (now some shall still say Assos break easier than X-rays), but it killed my front battery brace, one of the camberlink eyelets and one blade. The battery now had to be satisfied to be embraced by tape and the blade was replaced. I just had no eyelet. So I took one of my spare shock shaft ball cups. It is a little short but fits. I measured the car and was surprised that it got no tweak (quality)!
Knowing that I still was able to achieve the third place in the overall ranking I started in the 2. final. The guy on pole was awake this time and I could just follow some laps. The guy on third spot this time needed longer to catch me and passed without hitting, therefore I knocked his back softly without something happened and he was immediatly pissed
From now on I just focussed on clean driving and lapped all but the first two. The last final had the same scheme just without the guy on pole so that I got second and overall third.

The TC6 is just a car that makes it easy for me to be part of the A-finals. It adulates the driver and it is very interesting to see how the public attention for the car rises if you chase the top dogs
I am happy, but now it is time for AE/TT to make spares available!

Last edited by wtcc; 02-07-2011 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:59 AM   #1713
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The battery now had to be satisfied to be embraced by tape and the blade was replaced.
I love Google translate!

Great story by the way! Good luck with the car, we're all loving them!
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:18 AM   #1714
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That is not a Google translation. I meant it like I wrote it . The rest is just poor school english.

By the way: Everyone who has durability problems with the standard bearings should try the acer ceramic bearings. This weekend the car had to take quite a lot and now I checked if the bearings are ok and they are! Smooth, like new!
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:17 AM   #1715
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Any idea what the Olly suspension arm mount positions are in degrees?

Front is 3A and 0B on one sheet

I guess more importantly, what is the difference between A and B. If you just did say 0B in the front and 0A in the rear, would that be 2 or 3 degrees (or any other number) If it is lets say 2 degrees, why use 0b instead of 1A (if front is 3A which would be 2 degrees of kickup and the same RC right?)
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:32 AM   #1716
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i miss read
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:30 AM   #1717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
Any idea what the Olly suspension arm mount positions are in degrees?

Front is 3A and 0B on one sheet

I guess more importantly, what is the difference between A and B. If you just did say 0B in the front and 0A in the rear, would that be 2 or 3 degrees (or any other number) If it is lets say 2 degrees, why use 0b instead of 1A (if front is 3A which would be 2 degrees of kickup and the same RC right?)
From lowest to highest:
1-a
2-a
3-a
0-b
1-b
2-b
3-b
Each step should be 1 deg.
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:38 AM   #1718
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
From lowest to highest:
1-a
2-a
3-a
0-b
1-b
2-b
3-b
Each step should be 1 deg.
ahh ok so 0b front, and 0a rear would be 4 degrees of kickup? interesting, that should help with a few things
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Old 02-07-2011, 01:00 PM   #1719
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I miss read too!

Just be careful. The Ardent setups require the 6* blocks.
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:52 PM   #1720
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Guys, I'm trying to complete some tech info for Mike Blackstock at Snowbirds. Would someone mind verifying/updating this, or maybe Mike himself if he's around? Thanks.

Mod Sedan
Chassis: TC6
Motor: ??? (turns?)
ESC: ???
Battery: ???
Body: ???
Radio: ???
Charger: Futaba
Traction: ???

Mod 1/12
Chassis: AE
Motor: ??? (turns?)
ESC: ???
Battery: ???
Body: ???
Tires: ???
Radio: ???
Charger: ???
Traction: ???

13.5 1/12
Chassis: AE
Motor: ???
ESC: Tekin RS
Battery: ???
Body: ???
Radio: ???
Charger: ???
Traction: ???
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:01 PM   #1721
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My steering is real stiff after I just built my tc6. I tried to squeeze with pliers. Without a servo attached, the steering will stay in place stiff. It should be loose and movable right?
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:23 AM   #1722
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Quote:
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My steering is real stiff after I just built my tc6. I tried to squeeze with pliers. Without a servo attached, the steering will stay in place stiff. It should be loose and movable right?
Yes it should. Take all of the tie rods off the front-end (including the outer camber link ones). Then make sure each rod end can rotate around the ball joint freely. My approach is to just pop each one on and off a few times until it frees up.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:54 AM   #1723
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Yes it should. Take all of the tie rods off the front-end (including the outer camber link ones). Then make sure each rod end can rotate around the ball joint freely. My approach is to just pop each one on and off a few times until it frees up.
... and if they still aren't free then chuck them up in a dremel and polish them with 1000 grit sand paper.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:21 AM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Guys, I'm trying to complete some tech info for Mike Blackstock at Snowbirds. Would someone mind verifying/updating this, or maybe Mike himself if he's around? Thanks.

Mod Sedan
Chassis: TC6
Motor: ??? (turns?)
ESC: ??? LRP
Battery: ??? SMC 60C 6000
Body: ???
Radio: ??? Futaba 3PK
Charger: Futaba
Traction: ???

Mod 1/12
Chassis: AE
Motor: ??? (turns?)
ESC: ??? LRP
Battery: ??? SMC 6000 28C
Body: ??? AMR-12
Tires: ??? Jaco
Radio: ??? Futaba 3PK
Charger: ???
Traction: ???

13.5 1/12
Chassis: AE
Motor: ??? Duo 3
ESC: Tekin RS
Battery: ??? SMC 60C 5600
Body: ??? AMR-12
Radio: ??? Futaba 3PK
Charger: ???
Traction: ???
That should be correct. 12th body would be the only ?
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:01 AM   #1725
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After my horrible crash in the first final of the last race which destroyed one of the battery braces I decided to do some custom ones on my own. The reasons are:
1. TT needs 1-2 weeks to send spares and I hate to wait.
2. I have to rebuild the car anyway.
3. With my weight placing which only works without the center battery brace and antenna mount I am now able to locate the battery 1.5mm closer to the center without touching the belt.
4. The battery now is better supported and has just a minimum space to move if the tape should detach.
5. I also hope this solution will be stronger in accidents than the oem part

Here some pics:





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