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Old 01-25-2011, 11:51 PM   #1561
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I run my TC6's with a little slop in the arms all the time with no problem, I just tighten them up now and then. Hinge pin mounts on my Xray's and Photon used to do the same thing. I'm using pan car bulkhead shims rather than the plastic horse shoe things that came in the kit, maybe that's the difference.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:24 AM   #1562
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Originally Posted by Lebatek View Post
Buckaroo, are you using the small "L" bend allen wrenches or a high quality hardened wrench to tighten the suspension mounts?

On my TC5, I used slightly longer 3mm cap screws (with the 2.5mm head), and so I did the same right from the first build on the TC6 and have had zero issues. If you use a high quality wrench and the bigger 2.5mm head screws, you can snug them up pretty tight. Costs about $3 but it works better for me.

Good luck!
Doing the screws up tighter won't stop the mounts rotating around the bushings, it would only help if the bushings were moving on the screws, which he has stated they are not.

Superglue in the mounts to get rid of the slop between the mounts and bushings is the easiest solution.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:31 AM   #1563
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This has become a major issue with my car. Can't get through a Qually or Main without at least 4 of the 8 coming loose. I'm going to try the superglue route and see where that gets. VERY frustrating!

....and yeah, I've cranked on the screws something crazy. It's as mentioned, the bushings are loose in the plastic arm mounts, and I believe that this is providing the slop necessary to work the mounts loose as the run progresses. The SCREWS don't come loose, the blue bushing doesn't move (scribed register marks on 'em to match marks on the screws), it's the plastic bushing itself that rotates! I even went to some older TC5 plastic arm mounts, same problem. Starts off dialed, ends up sloppy.

As for the arm mount screws, I replaced all of mine with longer ones. Only have to be careful with the front two with an old style AMB transponder. Newer(small) style clearance isn't an issue.

I use these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVSW0&P=7
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:23 AM   #1564
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Superglue has fixed the issue. Pain in the butt, though, as it basically makes the bushing/arm mount one unit when it comes to replacement or reconfiguration.

It's a design problem, not a hardware or tool issue, as the hole in the arm mount is larger than the aluminum sleeve that fits through it. Doesn't matter how much you tighten up the hardware, or what driver you use, NOTHING will prevent the arm mount from rotating around on the bushing. Even if the aluminum sleeve is shorter than the arm mount, and thus under compression from the arm mount screw, there is nothing else mechanical preventing the mount from rotating. One good slap of the boards or another car and it easily moves.

I tried those small aluminum spacers instead of the plastic figure 8s, but it only took one look at it to realize that it leaves the bottom of the arm mount unsupported in the event of a brush with the boards at speed. It acts just like a lever arm, and pops the head of the screw off, or at least bends it. It wasn't such an issue with the TC5, as the threads were in the aluminum bushings that were easily replaced, but the threads in the TC6 are in the bulkhead, and that is NOT an easy fix or replacement. Already seen that happen to one TC6 at my local track.

Been there, done that, switched back to the plastic spacers and never had an issue at all after that.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:40 AM   #1565
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Superglue has fixed the issue. Pain in the butt, though, as it basically makes the bushing/arm mount one unit when it comes to replacement or reconfiguration.
My approach is to add the superglue to the mount hole, then let it dry for 24 hours before putting the bushing into the mount. So the superglue is just used to reduce the size of the hole and get rid of the slop, rather than glue the two bits together.

That way the bushing is tight in the mount, but it isn't glued to it so can be removed if necessary (haven't actually tried removing one yet, but it should come apart).

Either way its a bit crap. I guess Thunder Tiger don't understand how an interference fit works...
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:09 AM   #1566
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My approach is to add the superglue to the mount hole, then let it dry for 24 hours before putting the bushing into the mount. So the superglue is just used to reduce the size of the hole and get rid of the slop, rather than glue the two bits together.

That way the bushing is tight in the mount, but it isn't glued to it so can be removed if necessary (haven't actually tried removing one yet, but it should come apart).

Either way its a bit crap. I guess Thunder Tiger don't understand how an interference fit works...
I did try that, but had no long term confidence in it, but I'm open to anyone's experience of overall durability of that method.

Seems like a simple redesign of the bushing and arm mount would do. Something other than round!
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:49 AM   #1567
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Tom, I will check and see if I have extra ones from my photon. The inserts and all. Wont hurt to see if they fit. Photons have flat spots in/on them to prevent this very thing.
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:11 PM   #1568
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Tom, I will check and see if I have extra ones from my photon. The inserts and all. Wont hurt to see if they fit. Photons have flat spots in/on them to prevent this very thing.
Thanks, Tommy. The Associated ones do have a flat spot, but it's relatively small. Maybe the Photon ones will fit, as the flat is larger on them. Bring on the Dremel!
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:49 PM   #1569
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Tom, I will check and see if I have extra ones from my photon. The inserts and all. Wont hurt to see if they fit. Photons have flat spots in/on them to prevent this very thing.
The Photon blocks do fit,but fitted flush to the bulk heads the wiishbone pivot pin distance is equal by 0.1mm to the Ae blocks+1mm spacers.Unfortunatly they are a perfect fit lenght ways for the wishbone and leave no room for wheel base spacers,in fact they reduce the total wheel base by 1mm (0.5mm per end) unless you are prepared to shave the inner face of the Photon block down to allow wheel base spacers to be fitted....One things for sure due to the bigger contact area they dont move/swing easy compared to the kits blocks, nor do they distort and alter the toe when tightened.....hope this helps??... Les (converted Photon driver to a car with steering )
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:45 PM   #1570
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Wow, this suspension mount issue is getting a life of it's own here. Honestly, I race 2 TC6's indoors on carpet (CRC boards), probably 1000 laps a week including practice nights, have not had a "significant" problem with these mounts. I don't get it!
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:27 PM   #1571
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How about drilling a set screw hole to keep it from rotating? I don't think it would not be that hard. I am gonna try and see if it works.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:50 PM   #1572
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i was lookind at snowbird pics and noticed kevin hebert is running different bulkheads on his tc6 with arm mounts from the tc5 his screws are threaded into the arm mounts not the bulkhead. maybe this is a significant problem
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:05 PM   #1573
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Honestly, the slop, as much as it can be, is not much, so 99% of the people out there would probably not be able to tell the difference. A little slop never hurt anybody anyways

I am gonna try both the set-screw mod and the super glue mod this coming week and try and see if there is a noticeable difference in feel, and laptimes. My gut feeling is that it won't make a difference that is truly quantifiable. I have seen very comparable amounts of slop on other vehicles, such as the XRAY T3 and it never did make a difference that was noticeable while driving or in lap times.

With that, the super glue mod that is described a few posts back is not very hard to do, nor does it take a lot of glue. Just a little dab of thin CA should do. CA Does not penetrate the aluminum, so you should be able to remove the block without much effort if you use "just enough" CA.
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:21 AM   #1574
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Yo guys do TC5 bulkheads fit the TC6. If so why not use them till Associated fixes the problem?
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #1575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
Wow, this suspension mount issue is getting a life of it's own here. Honestly, I race 2 TC6's indoors on carpet (CRC boards), probably 1000 laps a week including practice nights, have not had a "significant" problem with these mounts. I don't get it!
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