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Old 01-17-2011, 01:27 PM   #1486
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I too changed my setup (a Juho copy) to see if it fits me and makes the car faster. The last thing I need was a Mazda-body. It is the first Mazda one I bought. And I hate its design! In my eyes it is very ugly. Now that I worked with it, it is even worse. I normally use the HB 09x. This body is a beauty in comparison to the Mazda. I cannot understand that our aerodynamic bodies look that way. In general good aerodynamic brings also a good look. Why not in our hobby?

So, this is the best what I could do to hide the uglyness. I still try to find my "colours". This time I did an experiment with a lot transparency.





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Old 01-17-2011, 02:36 PM   #1487
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anyone have the actual sizes (drill or mm) for the kit shocks 1, 2, 3?

I know the losi sizes correspond with drill sizes, 55=1.3mm, 56=1.2mm, 57 1.1mm...

thanks
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:50 PM   #1488
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Originally Posted by twk-b View Post
anyone have the actual sizes (drill or mm) for the kit shocks 1, 2, 3?

I know the losi sizes correspond with drill sizes, 55=1.3mm, 56=1.2mm, 57 1.1mm...

thanks
-b
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ankpistons.pdf
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:24 PM   #1489
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ok to understand it right,
how much holes of which size do the losi pistons 56 and 57 have?
losiīs are not av here so i have to check for alternatives

greetings
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:27 PM   #1490
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Originally Posted by i1justin View Post
Thanks, i found one instead of how to snap them off for 6465.

I did the math, hopefully without making a mistake, and then put them in order based on total area.

AE/Losi Pistons Chart
54 = blue (1.4) x3 = 4.61811 mm^2
55 = orange (1.32) x3 = 4.10541 mm^2
56 = red (1.2) x3 = 3.39291 mm^2
AE#1 = 54 (1.4) x2 = 3.07874 mm^2
57 = black (1.1) x3 = 2.85096 mm^2
AE#2 = 55 (1.32) x 2 = 2.73694 mm^2
60 = natural (1.0) x3 = 2.35617 mm^2
AE#3 = 3/64" (1.19m) x2 = 2.22438 mm^2
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:28 PM   #1491
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Originally Posted by C.Andersson View Post
Glad that you like it
0 degrees of rear toe?
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:04 PM   #1492
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Originally Posted by twk-b View Post
Thanks, i found one instead of how to snap them off for 6465.

I did the math, hopefully without making a mistake, and then put them in order based on total area....
Keep in mind that total area is useful for comparing low speed damping only.
As piston speed increases, smaller holes will pack up more than larger holes which increases damping substantially.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:27 PM   #1493
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Quote:
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Keep in mind that total area is useful for comparing low speed damping only.
As piston speed increases, smaller holes will pack up more than larger holes which increases damping substantially.
Thanks, I knew that seemed a little simplified... worse the bad math, bad logic, *eek*. Will have to bust out the fluid mechanics books, and reintroduce myself with the not so simplified formula to get to the bottom of this

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Old 01-17-2011, 08:45 PM   #1494
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I like it!!!
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:18 AM   #1495
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

At last Saturday I drive TC6 and it drive like crap!!!

When all is fine it is nice, made me happy bit WTF, I had issues that I never get at tc5r !!!????

- a arms mount made from |------| to this /-----\ and big slop!, plastics move
outside , no screw issue, I put longer ones, but it looks like blue part
is a little too long ..., and it move outside, I put car on track do 5 laps to
test it and ... it made me really angry, before run I must check it again ...,
I'm currently building my TC6 (taking quite a while to get everything perfect) and discovered a design/manufacturing issue here. The arm mount bushings need to be a really tight fit into the arm mounts. Otherwise the mounts will rotate around the bushings when fitted, which is what's happening to you (and was happening to mine on the bench).

The solution is to line the hole in the arm mount with superglue (CA), then allow it to dry for a couple of hours. Then when you fit the bushing it should be a tight fit into the mount, preventing anything rotating.

You also need to threadlock the arm mount screws, otherwise these can come undone in an impact.

Hope that helps!
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:36 AM   #1496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
- shock are crap at top, slop under blue nut and cup sucked into body,
and black part is free..., I really miss tc5 shocks ...., tc6 shocks made
me more angry then all issues ...
I am also fairly unimpressed with the TC6 shocks so far; I don't like the play between the cap and the top mounting ball (I think some more superglue may come out here).

I also found they leak making it impossible to get rid of the air (as they just keep sucking in more air around the bottom seals. I've rebuilt the seals and packed them with Vaseline (petrolium jelly - basically the same as Associated's Green Slime) which seems quite a lot better. I may also try changing the o-rings to some TRF ones as the red rubber o-rings that AE supply don't look as soft as the usual silicon o-rings you'd expect in shocks.
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:07 AM   #1497
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I haven't run the cat yet, but you guys are right shocks are crap.I am planning on replacing them with tamiya shocks.
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:27 AM   #1498
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i like the shocks, same quality as tamiya i had before in my 416x
little more difficult to build
i like the screw to hold the piston
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:19 PM   #1499
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I actually think the TC6 shocks are quite good, just as good as tamiya and definitely easier to build then xray shocks.
Mine went together really smooth and donít leak, Iím surprised people are complaining about the shocks.
The screw in piston makes them so easy to rebuild, I'm happy.
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:42 PM   #1500
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[QUOTE=azz187;8508263]I actually think the TC6 shocks are quite good, just as good as tamiya and definitely easier to build then xray shocks.
Mine went together really smooth and donít leak, Iím surprised people are complaining about the shocks.
The screw in piston makes them so easy to rebuild,

I beg to disagree.
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