OleC

I've tried gearing it lower but since it acts like theres a rev limiter on it doesn't do any good.

I've tried timing between zero and the third notch, but I can’t feel any change in behaviour. Maybe it’s even a bit “softer” in the low revs with zero timing, now it’s at the third notch.

Well, I guess it forces you to learn how to get the most out of the motor you have. But when you’re not able to figure out how to get it to perform (like now) it really sucks!

OleC

Thanks Sushi Boy!

I have suspected the brush springs to be to light even after I bent them like REEDY recommends.

I have a lot of 767 brushes from stock racing so I have been thinking of testing them but I didn’t know what springs to use so thanks for the tip!

I’ll do some more test and come back to report later.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

you may want to go to www.rccars.com ( or rccar? ) and the Big Jim motor forum as the guys there do alot of tuning to the KR and could help you out.

Wency_TA03R-PRO

Just want to ask what is the big difference from running a quad magnet motor versus dual magnet motor? and is it legal to run quad magnet motors in a legal race?...

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Olec- No Prob dude. I actually just met Big Jim in person and talked to him a bit about the motors, so Those tips should get ya goin. A Report on how the 767's work would be really cool. I have a ton of them, but I've already been impressed with the 766's because they are the same compound as the Quasar (stand up verion) and it's probably the best overall standup brush you can get for mod motors.

Wency_TA03R-PRO- Quad mag motors just have less cogging (the notchyness you feel when you turn the motor). They Seem to just have a better powerband IMO. They accelerate really nice. Very controllable and powerful punch. They decelerate alot slower though, so sometimes it catches people off guard. I dont feel I'm explaining this good enough so my best advice is to just try one lol.

-Sushi Boy

The Black Kat

Agreed....They seem to accelerate a tad slower, have a bit less punch and sound different than a conventional dual mag

For Example: Chameleon 2 sounds like an electric top on crack, Epic Binary sounds like an electric Hemi

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Back to the revolution (v2), hard springs are the ticket to run well on carpet in a touring car, with the hard spring, spring brush, and about 28 timing the motors are insanely fast compared to any reedy i raced against. The downside is the motor gets eaten up quickly, and it is a minor pain to change brushs/springs.

I found the medium/hard to work well for ashpault (allows a few more revs), and soft for 12th scale.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Kat-

rcracingkid- The reason for the excessive wear is the amount of timing you have. All the team drivers from orion are running 18-20 degree of timing. If you run 28 degrees of timing you are messing with the powerband too much and causing excessive heat. I have tried an Orion Touring V2 8x1 and that felt good. I think it had some med hards in it, and the sprint brushes.

-Sushi Boy

The Black Kat

Okay, My dad got this Orion HAVOK 13t....After frying it he gave me the armature....The comm looks burnt but I was woundering if I can cut it & that'd be the cure.....Can this motor even be cut? (I've heard some non-rebuildables will screw your bit)

glide 1

Anyone have any feedback on these motors? I've heard of racers melting the endbells on this motor!!! I have a 9x2 that i still have to try out, do you gear them differently? What timing is everybody setting it at? I see that factory settings is at 24deg. Should i set it at say 18deg instead and just gear a tooth up? thanks in advance..

JPHRacer

The orion V2's are decent motors, but not great by any means if your looking for raw HP. As a sponserd driver I can run whatever I want. My motor builder will build anything I want. The orions are good off-road motors, the are smooth and seem to make good bottom end, but they just have no rip. I race mod oval. Its the king of HP class. When all you see being run are Ti, PT and D5 based stuff, that proabably says somthing. Not that the Revs are bad motors, but watching the mod sedans go at the birds it was very easy to see who had the rip and who didnt. The Reedy and fantom guys were laying it down.

I like running reedy stiff just because the fit and finish of the motors are a little nicer then the trinity stuff, and tend to be a little more effecient. The D5 stuff allways has better spool-up, and sound cooler, but other then that run allmost idetical on the track as any Ti motor. The D6 quads are not as top end oriented as the reedy stuff, and have a little better effi. The Reedy PT's and KR's are awsome motors, but just dont have the effi. that the Ti's have. I like them for carpet tracks when the car is there, but otherwise you have to de-tune it to much to make time, and you loose all the extra power. Off-road and sedan's should have no problem making the extra power last for 5 min.

It also depends on who is winding the motor and what its wound for. That makes the biggest difference. Having someone that can actualy wind a motor specifically for the tracks you race on is very important if your looking for every last bit. Wire size, 4 or 5mm arm blanks, different winding patterens, all make a difference. For the average mod guy, they wont be able to tell the difference in a .5 guage in wire size change, or a different pattern, but if you are looking for everything that stuff does matter.

In the Kr's I allways run 767's or putnam blues. The 767 is an awsome brush. Just take whatever brush you are using and grind down the tips of it for break-in. I do rebuild the motors every run, but the brushes will stay in the whole day for club racing. In any other standup brush motor, the 728's are the only way to go for a long lasting brush that makes decent power. Otherwise I allways use Putnam x-brush. But I will use the 728 if I need to finish stronger.

For setting the timing I reccomend running the motor at 1.5 volts and adjust the timing, until the motor is pulling 10.5-12 amps. I have had some motors that need to be run at 26 degrees, and one of my newer 6x1's that we have been playing with run at 6 degrees for that range. Timing is just a number, it dosent have any real actual correlation to what the motors going to do. If I ran my 6x1 at 18 degrees I would have had no chance to make runtime. Running the motor and checking the amp draw is the only way to tell if the motor is all ok. That dosent mean that most motors can be done with just putting the timing in some range and running it, but to do it "right" running it, and adjusting for amp draw is the best way, without killing the motor.

Wency_TA03R-PRO

Thanks alot for a cool well explained topic on the quad magnets.

speedxl

how many runs are you getting out of the brushes on the kr's do you have to rebuild it after every run.?

fatdoggy

You can cut almost any comm. I cut the comm on my old tamiya technigold rx-540vz a few days ago(first cut it's ever gotten, runs alot better now). To check out if an arm is shot do the following, check out the windings, if they arn't a nice copper colour they've been cooked, if they look fine give it a very light cut on a lathe, if one segment gets cut and the others arn't touched then the arm is shot. A motor with burnt windings will run in most cases but if a segment has lifted you might as well throw it away.

PitCrew

Cogging is when one pole of the armature isn't being "charged" for part of the arms rotation. That "notchiness" you are referring to is the motor acting as a generator when you turn the shaft. The reason that mods are usually easier to rotate than stock motors (less drag break) is because the more wire there is on the armature, the more current it creates like a generator. Basically, with more wire, as in a stock motor, ther is more drag through the magnetic field of the magnets than a low turn mod.