17LikesGT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!
06-28-2010, 04:25 PM
#31
Hobby King Turnigy 4500 mah, 4S, 30-40c. They were dirt cheap! I believe I paid $39.00 each for the 2 I have. It cost about $30.00 to get them here from Japan. So figure about $55.00 per pack. Still $100.00 or more less per pack than buying with a name brand in the US.
When I recived them I checked the balance, 1 pack perfect, the other had a low cell that required me to single cell charge through the balance tap (it was a pain in the arse to make up an adapter to charge 1 cell through the balance lead, I had to figure out what cell it was, then determine which positive and negative lead to use for that cell, and if you have to ask, I will not tell how I did it, these batteries are dangerous if you are not really, really carefull!)
My balancer running in series with the charger will only discharge the high cells. I needed to bring up the low cell first. After doing this several times the cells appear to be very close without the low one anymore.
I balance after I run the pack down, then charge, then balance again before I use the pack (once they are close, only takes a few seconds on the balancer). I think this is the best way to keep them in top shape.
My charger is only a 50 watt charger, so I plan on investing in a Hyperion 100 + watt charger (I want to charge at 2C - 3C). Plus the Hyperion chargers balance while charging (balancing is done in parallel while charging, not in series), much better way to charge.
I have never owned a $200.00 battery, but if these last and continue to perform I never will!
When I recived them I checked the balance, 1 pack perfect, the other had a low cell that required me to single cell charge through the balance tap (it was a pain in the arse to make up an adapter to charge 1 cell through the balance lead, I had to figure out what cell it was, then determine which positive and negative lead to use for that cell, and if you have to ask, I will not tell how I did it, these batteries are dangerous if you are not really, really carefull!)
My balancer running in series with the charger will only discharge the high cells. I needed to bring up the low cell first. After doing this several times the cells appear to be very close without the low one anymore.
I balance after I run the pack down, then charge, then balance again before I use the pack (once they are close, only takes a few seconds on the balancer). I think this is the best way to keep them in top shape.
My charger is only a 50 watt charger, so I plan on investing in a Hyperion 100 + watt charger (I want to charge at 2C - 3C). Plus the Hyperion chargers balance while charging (balancing is done in parallel while charging, not in series), much better way to charge.
I have never owned a $200.00 battery, but if these last and continue to perform I never will!
06-28-2010, 04:35 PM
#32
I borrowed some 1/8th offroad buggy tech for my current setup. I'm running a center diff with 500K fluid. It allows for a little better traction and it doesn't 'hop' under acceleration. It also helps with braking as I can use a little more rear bias to avoid pushing into corners under braking, so the car is rotating better in and out of the turn. For smaller parking lot tracks, the single speed is plenty fast. If I was at a bigger track, I'd drop the 2-speed back in without the CD and bias.
I originally had my car setup with direct drive + mech brakes, then switched to Traktion Drive + mech brakes. I have settled on the Elektri-Clutch at this time. It is by far the smoothest option we've run as it eases in and out, on and off power. It eliminates cogging and allows everything to run cool as mentioned before.
The brakes and clutch were a hot topic in the 1/8th electric buggy discussion a couple years ago when we first introduced it. Our kits now offer a power delivery option for everyone's taste. Direct drive + motor brakes, DD + mechanical brakes, Elektri-Clutch + mech brakes, or Traktion Drive w/ motor or mech brakes.
At this time, I like the DM-1 chassis because it is more purpose built for the application (different arms and hubs to lower the chassis). We also like it because there is a purpose built kit for it
. The Losi L8 makes for a pretty neat conversion as well.Either way you go, you can't really go wrong with this class. We had such a blast running an actual race with 6 of these beasts screaming down the straight. We can't wait to do it again!
06-28-2010, 04:37 PM
#33
We're thinking about heading over to WCRC tomorrow (June 29th) to run our eGT's. We don't have enough for a class, but if there are some of you in the area that can make it, let us know and we can get some racing going on.
WCRC, Tuesday June 29th. Can anyone make it?
WCRC, Tuesday June 29th. Can anyone make it?
06-28-2010, 04:47 PM
#36
Very Cool!
I had never seen or heard of your Traktion drive system. Wow. I will have to try one of those. Can you tell me how much length needed on the motor out put shaft? The Kyosho mount almost requires the newer Novak short pinions. 
06-28-2010, 04:48 PM
#37
Rice Man let me know when the next time you guys run I will make the trip down their.
Nice to see this thread open up here. We are trying to get this class going down here in San Diego. We had our first club race a couple weeks ago. Here are few pics. There are 3 DM-1 Tekno Conversions (Impakt, Red Bull and Lightning Mcqueen), 1 DM-1 RC Monster conversion (Rising Sun), 1 Losi conversion (Tekno paint) and 1 Kysosho GT-2 home brew conversion (Corvette)
By the way I painted all but the Corvette and Rising Sun bodies. Enjoy the pics.
By the way I painted all but the Corvette and Rising Sun bodies. Enjoy the pics.
06-28-2010, 04:49 PM
#38
I wanted to stick with a hard case lipo until I am really comfortable handling them, but 5S with the much safer LiFe cell should be equal to a 4S lipo.
06-28-2010, 04:52 PM
#39
http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....oducts_id=1079
There is some discussion about it in the Tekno conversion thread (in electric off-road).
It's basically a slipper pinion.
You do need to space the motor back a little bit to accommodate the clutch bell assembly.
Some of the longer motor shafts may have to be cut down depending on the chassis/mount you use. I think 17-19mm works.
It doesn't work on direct to diff type mounts, it requires a Tekno type motor mount setup or some other way to space it back a little bit.
There is some discussion about it in the Tekno conversion thread (in electric off-road).
It's basically a slipper pinion.
You do need to space the motor back a little bit to accommodate the clutch bell assembly.
Some of the longer motor shafts may have to be cut down depending on the chassis/mount you use. I think 17-19mm works.
It doesn't work on direct to diff type mounts, it requires a Tekno type motor mount setup or some other way to space it back a little bit.
06-28-2010, 04:55 PM
#40
06-28-2010, 05:08 PM
#43
Originally Posted by williamw
Quote: Originally Posted by Raman William, I just ordered the turnigy 4500 LiFe 3s packs. I already own a pair of the 2S 4500 LiFe, plan on running 5S with them. Overall I'm happy with the turnigy packs. For the price you can't beat them. I also run them in my planes as well. I wanted to stick with a hard case lipo until I am really comfortable handling them, but 5S with the much safer LiFe cell should be equal to a 4S lipo.
You can compensate for the lower nominal voltage by gearing up. For example, on my 1/10 scale onroad, with a 3.5 system, I was running an fdr of 10.5 with 2S lipo. With the LiFe, I'm down to 8.5 with no heat issues on motor, esc no battery.
06-28-2010, 05:10 PM
#44
Originally Posted by teknorc
Quote: Originally Posted by js058515 Raman, I am willing to head down to San Diego to drive with other GT's. I am sure we could learn a lot from the Tekno guys regardless if we use their stuff or not. js, Let's do WCRC tomorrow night. Come on! __________________ Tekno RC / Impakt RC www.teknorc.com / www.impaktrc.com
06-28-2010, 05:41 PM
#45
