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Old 01-11-2011, 07:43 PM   #1141
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Can't wait for Corona!!!
Very sharp looking!!! Nice job!!!
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:38 AM   #1142
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I need to find a body mount set I can make work.

Should I go for both F and R body mounts from the shock towers, or R on the shock tower and F extending up from the bumper? I have been looking at a few different body mount sets but it looks like maybe either the IGT mounts could work, or the Ultra GTP mounts.

Also need to find a front bumper to use. Think the IGT or GTP are my best bet for that too?

EDIT: I decided to order the IGT body mounts and bumper. Looks like I should be able to make them work with minimal modifications.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:17 PM   #1143
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Built up my diffs tonight, 50k front, 100k center, 30k rear. Still using RCM Slipperential, will need to play around with the slipper setting though.

Also rebuilt shocks. Using Hyper 9 17mm front big bores on all 4 corners, internally limited, filled with 60wt and firm springs. Going to run the X2 carbon fiber front tower and a modified rear CF tower until I can pick up a set from SNR. Might be riding a bit high, but I'm going to try and lay the shocks down quite a bit.

Last thing was build up a whole new steering rack. Just waiting on some NEXX8 lipo trays.

EDIT: Here's some pics of the general layout. Still need to make an ESC rack to mount on the back of the center diff.
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GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-p1030180.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-p1030181.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2011, 06:31 PM   #1144
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Here's the diffs. Innovative RC alloy cups, HotBodies hardened steel internals, Ofna hard-coated alloy bevel shafts, and Sportwerks TiNi ring gears. Frankenstein diffs I guess you could say! Probably not the lightest, but I want something beefy and solid for bashing.

The Slipperential needs a rebuild and I might rebuild it with one of the Delrin spurs. As of right now the regular center diff is going in.

Second pic is the shock towers. Stock X2 CF front is on the left, and the modified X2 CF rear is on the right. The rear is now about the same profile as the front with same shock mounting positions.
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GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-p1030185.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-p1030187.jpg  
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Old 01-15-2011, 07:43 PM   #1145
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Here's the diffs. Innovative RC alloy cups, HotBodies hardened steel internals, Ofna hard-coated alloy bevel shafts, and Sportwerks TiNi ring gears. Frankenstein diffs I guess you could say! Probably not the lightest, but I want something beefy and solid for bashing.

The Slipperential needs a rebuild and I might rebuild it with one of the Delrin spurs. As of right now the regular center diff is going in.
Nice job! You've definitely piqued my interest. Care to elaborate a little more for those of us who want to build some? (me)

Parts #'s would be great, but any details you might have.

Thanks
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:45 PM   #1146
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Sure thing!

I bought the Innovative RC alloy cups awhile ago on Ebay. They are based in the UK, but shipping was still pretty quick. The cups are actually labeled for the HB Lightning Stadium but same size as Ofna cups. Always need a few shims anyway. http://www.innovative-rc.com/lightni...43ca93d6a75c52 Nova RC also makes alloy diff cups and they are in the US. That's the silver one I used for my standard center diff. You could use those all around too if you don't want to order from the UK. http://www.novarcproducts.com/diffcups.html

The HB hardened internals are also from the Lightning Stadium (and D8/D8T I think). Part # HBC8101-1 http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/produ...hbc8101-1.html

The Ofna hard-coated alloy bevel shafts are part # OFN30774. http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Parts-...duct_info.html

Sportwerks vehicles and parts are discontinued, but you can still find the 43T TiNi spurs on Ebay. Part # SWK9074 Also, the Losi 43T TiNi spur is exactly the same thing, and they are still being produced. Part # LOSB3535 You will need a thinner o-ring for the Sportwerks/Losi ring gears. The cups use the standard P6 (6mm I.D. 2mm thickness) o-rings, but the Sportwerks/Losi gears use 6mm I.D. 1.5mm thickness. I ordered a bunch online, so if you need a few let me know.

For the pinion I am using a Jammin/NEXX8 13T. They call it spiral cut, but it's not extreme like some of the ones you see. Just a slight arc to the teeth, meshes up perfect with the Sportwerks/Losi ring gear. Part # OFN40628 You might be able to use the pinion that comes with LOSB3535, but I haven't tried it myself. Should work, the only difference is there is a little lip on the end of the pinion shaft, and a divot for the set screw.

The RC-Monster Slipperential is from RC-Monster of course. When I first saw it I just thought it was a really cool idea. They aren't cheap, but I really like it. There is a variety of spurs available in different tooth counts, steel and Delrin. I think I might try one of the Delrin ones, but I have the 46T steel right now (and 52T steel in my truggy). I'm sure I'll need to play with the slipper settings, as I'm only used to adjusting it for off-road med-low traction, not high traction on-road. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...Mslipperential
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:53 PM   #1147
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VERY helpful simplechamp! Much appreciated!

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Old 01-16-2011, 02:17 PM   #1148
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Was that Lezlie's Xmas gift?
hey Charlie, what power package did you go with, I want to go with SP bought I find the way they list the motors kinda hard to understand.

I'm gonna assume its the 1/8 motors with the plug in's like the v3 motors?
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:38 PM   #1149
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VERY helpful simplechamp! Much appreciated!

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Those are the Silver Arrow Motors. I actually went with Shawn Palmer's Slotless Cirtix motor with the 2200KV ratings on it. SP recommended the Cirtix Slotless motors so i went with that. No problems so far! I am using the Silver Arrow2 Esc though. The package deal is the cheapest i have seen compared to the other brands.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:46 PM   #1150
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Got everything built for the most part. Just need to drill and countersink the mounting holes for the NEXX8 lipo trays, and wait for the bumper and body mounts to show up.

Unfortunately it's going to be awhile before I can drive it because I live in the Arctic circle , but that's plenty of time to save some cash and pick out a nice body.

One nice thing about this CF chassis is that it's electric specific. No extra cutout for the clutchbell or all those extra holes in the chassis.
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GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-p1030189.jpg   GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-p1030188.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:34 PM   #1151
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Damn simplechamp, that is ***** sweet!

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Old 01-16-2011, 06:48 PM   #1152
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Those are the Silver Arrow Motors. I actually went with Shawn Palmer's Slotless Cirtix motor with the 2200KV ratings on it. SP recommended the Cirtix Slotless motors so i went with that. No problems so far! I am using the Silver Arrow2 Esc though. The package deal is the cheapest i have seen compared to the other brands.
thanks and thats on 3s/ 4s. sorry for the questions, new at this, local guy built one with a 4s 2650kv and while it has tremendous rip, not sure its gonna work at our track, (safety reasons)
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:02 PM   #1153
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Damn simplechamp, that is ***** sweet!

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Thanks!

I'm going to use a DE Racing rear skid, and maybe a front, depends on how far back the IGT bumper mount comes. Also probably going to get some plastic/Delrin strips and run 2 along the bottom as rub strips to protect the chassis a bit more. Might have to raise the ride height a few mm, but since I don't race it's not that big of a concern.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:12 PM   #1154
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thanks and thats on 3s/ 4s. sorry for the questions, new at this, local guy built one with a 4s 2650kv and while it has tremendous rip, not sure its gonna work at our track, (safety reasons)
4s man...all the way!
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:17 PM   #1155
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hey guys, i would like to convert my losi 8ight-e to a gt on road.



ive seen the parts list from the l8ight, and it looks like it can be done pretty easily.


anybody willing to give some advice to a newb?
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