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Old 02-22-2013, 01:29 AM   #3226
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Looks like I'm going it alone.. None of the guys I pit with can make it
No worries! We will be there Feb 24th @ GLARCRC! Just find a nice spot for us to setup together. We are not really early birds, so we will be there around 9:30am!
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:42 PM   #3227
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I live 15 min away so will get there and set up tent early.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:44 PM   #3228
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Originally Posted by romuald31 View Post
Hello from France,

here's the video of the 201/2013 season.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs6uj...ature=youtu.be

Au revoir.
Hideeho
I noticed something I didn't understand in the video. At the 37 second mark there is a car that has replaced the rear camber links with what appears to be 1/10 off road buggy shocks with true progressive springs. I have 2 questions about this.

1. Why would you do that?
2. Where can I get some of those progressive springs?

There are several cars that used what appears to be lancia bodies. Does any one in the states carry those?
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:54 PM   #3229
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Thanks for the advice. It helps me visualize what I want/hope the car will do as I run the track. What car do you run and would you mind sharing your diff numbers? Thanks.
I run mostly OFNA Ultra GTP2. Black moly rear diff, 300k front diff and a center spool. Black moly on ring and pinion. Track has a 230 foot straight with medium bite and lap times 23-26 seconds. Cars are mid 50mph on straight. Throttle management needed to be smooth.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:59 PM   #3230
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We should have them added to our site either today or tommorow.

Keep checking this link.....

http://www.igthobbies.com/category_s/40.htm
got any pics of this modification ? thanks
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:33 PM   #3231
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I just wanted to give a shout out to guys that have a 1/8 scale buggy and onroad racing. I live by a great onroad track and went over with my Serpent 811BE (Electric 1/8 scale Buggy) I run 4S and a Tekin 1900KV motor (I had a 15T pinion, but changed to a 19T---I needed a 21T or 22T.. temps were low...about 120). We have two options for a track and most of us run the short version... not so short really... about 130-140 straight and sweeper... A great guy helped me at the track and all we did was decrease the droop significantly and he lent me a set of old Alpha tires... I was running 19 second laps... I handed the transmitter over to him and he was running 17 second laps... He is an experienced on road driver/champ.. He drove his GTP 8 scale car Gas car... and he was running 16.5 sec. laps... He handed it over to me and I was about 2.75 seconds behind his times... I plan on using another motor (Castle 2200KV motor that I have) and will convert a car or two for fun.... I have also used old 1/8 scale buggy tires with reasonable success on the track.. In fact, I noticed that when they wear a lot they get softer and the traction gets better....for awhile .... and eventually the foams show and I chuck em (Most of us off-road racers have a ton of old tires sitting around... My point to others that have cars sitting is don't be afraid to try this if u have a chance....

Does anyone know where I can purchase Alpha Supersoft tires/rims for 17mm hubs?

I think I have heard some say to use revo shocks... Can someone provide a part number or suggest other shocks...

Any suggestions for diff fluids - front/rear/center.. I have a bunch of Mobile one grease sitting around...which is thicker than 5/7/2 that I currently have in one of my buggies...

I have also read that I could also mount a front tower on the rear and run front shocks in the rear.... I have lots of parts for one of my cars.... so this is the most cost effective... and purchase stiffer springs, and a body of course...

FYI I am sure I can make my electric faster than his nitro via gearing and the above "improvements"
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:12 AM   #3232
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Bruckner hobbies sells them for 24.99 a pair(free shipping over $50)
Desoto Racing sells them for the same price and they are not far from u in Doral FL so you can order them online and go pick them up after 3pm
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:13 AM   #3233
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp View Post
Any suggestions for diff fluids - front/rear/center.. I have a bunch of Mobile one grease sitting around...which is thicker than 5/7/2 that I currently have in one of my buggies...

I have also read that I could also mount a front tower on the rear and run front shocks in the rear.... I have lots of parts for one of my cars.... so this is the most cost effective... and purchase stiffer springs, and a body of course...
I'm building the GT version of this right now. Look at the Serpent site for a set up sheet for the GT cars. You can also order the parts to convert but it might be cheaper to just buy a new one? Might want to consider the shorter shocks and shock towers though?

Fluids are 300,000, 300,000, 40,000 I think might be 60k in the rear?

Another option instead of the other motor might be going to a 5 cell set up? I'm going to try 6 cells with a 1700kv.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:00 AM   #3234
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With 6 cell you should be running a 1500 KV. 1700kv is good for 5 cell.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:48 PM   #3235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
With 6 cell you should be running a 1500 KV. 1700kv is good for 5 cell.
Think it all depends on gearing. Play with this:

http://www.rc-monster.com/brushless/advanced.html
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:52 PM   #3236
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With 6 cell you should be running a 1500 KV. 1700kv is good for 5 cell.
1700 on 6s is equivalent to a 2650 on 4s as far as RPMs go
Just don't see how a 1700kv motor spinning at 40k Rpms is going to run any cooler then a 2650kv motor also at 40k Rpms

Curious to see
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:01 AM   #3237
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The higher the kv motor the higher the wattage demanded, thus will run more hot. Running a lower kv motor w/ more cells will be more efficient due to the fact that wattage required will be less.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:29 AM   #3238
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The higher the kv motor the higher the wattage demanded, thus will run more hot. Running a lower kv motor w/ more cells will be more efficient due to the fact that wattage required will be less.
I have very little knowledge on electric motors but wouldn't the wattage draw of a 1700 motor go up as the voltage goes up? In other words to achieve the same rpms with both motors would require almost the same amount of watts?

would figure wattage to increase with the volts but the required amps would decrease because of the high voltage. Which in turn keeps the esc and battery cooler but it would have very little to no effect on the motor efficiency.
The same reason why lower MAH 6s packs are equivalent in run time to a high MAH 4s pack

3.7v x 6s x 3.3amps = 73watts
3.7v x 4s x 5.0amps = 74watts

As I said I'm far from a professional when it comes to these things.
But I can't help but think when I would throw in 3s packs for kicks in our 1/8 cars or buggys our motor temps would drop drastically on either motor(2650 or 1900) to the point we could run 2 straight packs and not over heat.
ESC and battery should bennifet but I can't see motor temps going down, at least drastically
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:59 AM   #3239
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I suspect your correct that motor heat will be similar but the ESC & Batts will be significantly less stressed and I look forward to finding out if there is really anything to this!

I know its not the same but I ran off road with a guy this summer that ran a 1300kv under 6 cells compared to my 1900 under 4 cells and his motor was barely warm compared to mine that was in the 140-150's.

When I talked to Tekin they strongly suggested this setup over the 2650. I talked to two of their reps and got the same story? It felt like they did not really like that motor? Or more likely folks are using it incorrectly?

If you don't mind I would love to meet you at the track for a practice day and stick my Eagle Tree system in both our cars to see what it comes back with? It should be very telling especially if we are both running the same setups in the same car? I've got the GPS, RPM, and two Temp sensors so we should be able to get some real data and put an end to this discussion
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:32 AM   #3240
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Yea we could deffenitly meet up there and compare.
I'm usually there pretty often atleast once a week and then on Saturdays too so it won't be a problem.

I'm interested in seeing how they compare. The low end on the 1700 motor should be pretty aggressive
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