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Old 08-22-2012, 07:11 AM   #3091
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I Don't think it's that great of a value.. For $580 (ceptor non licensed body) you could pick up an Ofna GTP2E plus Tekin RX8, install your own radio and servos and still have money to spare.
im just curious about this kit. im running igt2 nitro. im only looking for this kit for a reason i dont have to carry or buy 2 different parts/brand. you have a valid point too.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:31 AM   #3092
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Ok, thanks for your reply.

It's obvious that the GTP2E have a more simple design and so a better durability.

The DM1 chassis plate look sooo good, but yes i really don't like this front suspension layout !

What option or spare should i take with the GTP2E ? i heard the rear pivot ball kit is a really good value !

Thanks again for your help.
As a general rule its a good idea to keep suspension arms, up rights as spares. Option: not sure, since I don't personally run the car.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:42 AM   #3093
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Originally Posted by mosaics12 View Post
im just curious about this kit. im running igt2 nitro. im only looking for this kit for a reason i dont have to carry or buy 2 different parts/brand. you have a valid point too.
It's basically a conversion kit as a ready to run. Esc and battery tray in place of motor and gas tank. Motor mounted to centre bulk head on back side. Parts are interchangeable with your GT2 nitro.

Most popular kits ran are ofna gtp2e or Losi l8ght, because less work needs be done. We also predominantly run on the short wheel base.. Kyosho is the only one at the moment with the long wheelbase.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:03 PM   #3094
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GTP2E. Its more durable and easier to fine tune.. The DM1 Spec does not have droop settings.
They are actually hidden up under the bumper/body mount/ suspension pin holder piece right above the stabilizer bars!
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:53 PM   #3095
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You guys running the Revo Shocks:


What did you guys decide to run for oil and springs? I am building a custom with standing shocks and have them laying around with a spring kit to boot. Anyone gimme some quick suggestions to start?

Standing Revo Shocks:
Springs?
Oil?
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:49 PM   #3096
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They are actually hidden up under the bumper/body mount/ suspension pin holder piece right above the stabilizer bars!
Yep i also saw that in the DM-1 spec E PDF manual, so i am one more time confused about wich one i should buy ... the DM-1 Spec E with the standing shock front suspension mount or the GTP2E with the rear pivot ball and blades stabilizer bar upgrade ...
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:38 PM   #3097
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Originally Posted by grimmjow View Post
Yep i also saw that in the DM-1 spec E PDF manual, so i am one more time confused about wich one i should buy ... the DM-1 Spec E with the standing shock front suspension mount or the GTP2E with the rear pivot ball and blades stabilizer bar upgrade ...
The DM1 have better gears, layout, and just about everything else.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:33 AM   #3098
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Originally Posted by grimmjow View Post
Yep i also saw that in the DM-1 spec E PDF manual, so i am one more time confused about wich one i should buy ... the DM-1 Spec E with the standing shock front suspension mount or the GTP2E with the rear pivot ball and blades stabilizer bar upgrade ...
Dm1 Spec e FTW! It is designed for onroad racing, it has a more balanced layout (as CL says), it has lots of tuning options, the inner suspension pin holders are modular, therefore easier to perform maintenance and repairs as opposed to having the the pin holders as part of the fr/rr bulkheads. One major advantage over the gtp2e is lower cg due to the bumpers mounting flush with the chassis. Gtp2e mounts the bumper under the chassis forcing you to run a higher ride height. Good luck with your decision, but in the end, either of them will be very fun to drive!
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:03 PM   #3099
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Originally Posted by RC Passion View Post
Dm1 Spec e FTW! It is designed for onroad racing, it has a more balanced layout (as CL says), it has lots of tuning options, the inner suspension pin holders are modular, therefore easier to perform maintenance and repairs as opposed to having the the pin holders as part of the fr/rr bulkheads. One major advantage over the gtp2e is lower cg due to the bumpers mounting flush with the chassis. Gtp2e mounts the bumper under the chassis forcing you to run a higher ride height. Good luck with your decision, but in the end, either of them will be very fun to drive!
I am almost convinced. I have 2 Ultra GTP2s(one standard wheelbase and one SNR stretched version) and a Kyosho GT2 converted. Two of these DM1s showed up at our local track and I was impressed. For some reason I thought they were the long wheel base GT2 type and they are not. I like the ball suspension fr and rr, the separate inner lower hinge pin holders, chassis/bumper config and the blade type anti- sways. So much for the buggy based roadrace cars. I think this car will be hard to beat in the right hands. It's too late in the season around here to give it a try but next season............
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:04 PM   #3100
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has anyone tried converting caster ex1.5r 1/8 buggy?
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:46 PM   #3101
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has anyone tried converting caster ex1.5r 1/8 buggy?
Not that I know off.. basically if its a buggy, it can be converted. All you need are body mounts, front bumper and an extra set of front shocks to run on the rear.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:49 AM   #3102
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Let's go GT8 racing! Time to bust out the GT8s for Corona, Ca hobby town USA this Sunday Sept 16th!
Btw, I'm looking for a new lid for my Dm1 Spec! Any suggestions? Pics would help a lot!
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:00 PM   #3103
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Not that I know off.. basically if its a buggy, it can be converted. All you need are body mounts, front bumper and an extra set of front shocks to run on the rear.
Hideeho
I'm so happy! I found a bunch of guys that race on road locally! It's VERY informal with a little bit of everything, 1/8 on road, gt8, buggies w/ street tires, & even some 1/5 scale 2wd gas cars! Now that I've found some place to play with a street car, & found I should be able to use the Losi l8ight front bumper & rear body mount, what is the best way to limit the ride height? I raised the spring perch all the way up & set the droop screws so I only had a few mm of droop. My fronts were pretty much sitting on the droop screws, but the rears were sitting on the springs, not the screws. With this kind of ride height in the rear do I need shorter shocks for the rear? Will a gt body fit over the rear shock towers?
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:40 PM   #3104
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Default LWB GT8

I just ordered the Audi R8 body by Kyosho for my GT8.

I've been working on changing over my TRF801 to LWB / 360 mm +.. Here is how it looks so far









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Old 09-13-2012, 02:40 AM   #3105
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Hello from Barcelona,

Here is my GT8 (Rally Gamem in Europe). I'ts a Italian Crono RS03 gas chassis converted to brushless with a home-made motor mount, mamba monster ESC + 2200kv motor, turnigy 4S 5000 30C and savox 1258TG. Porsche GT body.

some pics:

GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-crono1.jpg

GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-crono2.jpg

GT8 Class--buggy-based on road electric!-crono3.jpg

regards
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