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Old 04-14-2011, 08:01 AM   #1591
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only bad news is I will be leaving again at the end of May. So ill get in the driving I can while Im home.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:05 AM   #1592
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Originally Posted by blueryu View Post
hey, can you share link to what springs you bought? i am building igt2 and wanted to run something like the losi8 shocks with firm springs and have been looking around. i would appreciate the help.
Firm Set
http://www.rc4less.com/product_info....9120a4c546982d

Soft Set
http://www.rc4less.com/product_info....9120a4c546982d
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:12 AM   #1593
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I'm using the C/F shock towers for the L8ight. I run losi Grey Springs in front mounted on the most outside TOP hole. The spring collars are turned 1 full turn from flush and I am using 45wt oil. I insert the shock shaft in brass tubing I cut to length to shorten the shock. I got the brass tube from my local hobby shop and the size fits perfectly around the shaft, but large enough so it won't allow it to go through the shock body. I forgot the measurements of the tube, but the front ride height when race ready is 9mm. I believe you could also use fuel tubing to do the same thing.

For the rear, I used the droop screws to lower the height of the car to 9.5mm. The shocks are filled with 45wt oil and are mounted 1 hole in from the outside of the tower on the 2nd row of holes from the top. The spring collars are turned 2 full turns from flush using white springs.

I still use the standard sway bars for the 8B 1.0 front and rear.

These settings work for me. I race on an outdoor prepped track with medium traction. Good luck!
Thanks for the help. I have not run mine yet, just finishing it up now. I was expecting to need a much stiffer setup than what you run. That is why I orderd the RC4Less spring kit, and the springs are much shorter than stock.

What are you running for diff fluid?

Thanks again.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:37 AM   #1594
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Got a couple questions for the guys running Losi cars. I'm just putting one together from a L8ight Model kit.

Are you guys putting some kind of spacers in the shocks to make them shorter?

I've got the firm spring kit from RC4Less, and when I set the ride height at about 12mm, it doesn't seem the spring is long enough, or the shock is too long. It's ok sitting static, but if you pick the car up, the spring comes off the spring cup.

I have the droop set at about 6mm, with shocks and swaybars removed.

Any advice would be appreciated.
12mm of ride height sounds like alot, but you can shorten the shocks by putting spacers under the pistons. You need to talk with Tony Phalen, apparently he has his Losi dialed, I am sure he will share his setup with you. I do not know what his forum name is, but someone will. He is a pro-class racer!
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:10 AM   #1595
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I found a picture of Tony's electric Losi. He used a Tekno conversion, very nice.

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Old 04-14-2011, 02:07 PM   #1596
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from the look of your picture it seems your running front and rear disk breaks...is that true? Can you provide a better picture of that area and how do you feel it performs compared to just 1 brake system.
Yup! It's called mechanical brakes. When I get a chance I snag some photos for you. The key points are that you can adjust brake bias 40% front and 60% rear to assist when going into and coming out of turns. It's helps with keeping your motor temps down which is really my focus, since you motor brakes are turned off. It's just a good option.
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:20 PM   #1597
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OFNA black shirts for sale on For Sale Thread.

OFNA Tee shirts in black
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:21 PM   #1598
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ATTENTION SOCAL RACERS!!! Looks liek we will have another 2 to 3 heats of GT8 this weekend at Hobbytown Corona! THe most we had was 17 GT8's out there. Lets beat that this weekend! For more info on our 160x80 track, goto http://socal.rcracing.com or visit us at facebook at facebook.com/occircuit

WIll Jai dominate the GT8 class again??? Bring it!!!
Wow!!! That is awesome. I know we have 3 coming up from San Diego.
Jerry (RC Passion), Aaron (Sandiegobrotha) and Steve (FangsCPO).

It may be a fight between Jerry and Jai, it should be interesting.

Jai tell your son, I'm coming for him. He beat me last time, not going to happend this time.
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:57 PM   #1599
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Yup! It's called mechanical brakes. When I get a chance I snag some photos for you. The key points are that you can adjust brake bias 40% front and 60% rear to assist when going into and coming out of turns. It's helps with keeping your motor temps down which is really my focus, since you motor brakes are turned off. It's just a good option.
What weight oil are you running in the center?

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Old 04-14-2011, 03:22 PM   #1600
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What weight oil are you running in the center?

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I was told to run initially 500k but it was basically locking up the center diff and I wanted to use mechanical brakes. So now I'm running 100k.
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Old 04-14-2011, 03:43 PM   #1601
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I was told to run initially 500k but it was basically locking up the center diff and I wanted to use mechanical brakes. So now I'm running 100k.
Thanks man. I will be most likely switching to one speed (because I already have a set of titanium nitride cb's) and i see it comes with the dual brake setup.

Thanks again Fangs!

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Old 04-14-2011, 05:29 PM   #1602
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With all this talk of mechanical brakes and the ability of being able to adjust front to rear (which is what I used to run), doesn't having a center diff with like 100k oil, with motor brakes turned on, basically do the same as the dual mechanical brake setup?
The other part, is how many actually use the brakes for cornering versus using like 30% drag brakes and powering thru the corner?
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:51 PM   #1603
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With all this talk of mechanical brakes and the ability of being able to adjust front to rear (which is what I used to run), doesn't having a center diff with like 100k oil, with motor brakes turned on, basically do the same as the dual mechanical brake setup?
I would say no because with a center diff/motor brakes your single point of stopping power is the force from the motor-pinion-spur of diff and the available traction provided from your front and rear wheels.

With the dual brake setup, the amount of force applied front and rear is at that specific end of the diff housing. Bias is obtained by tightening the collars on the cam.

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The other part, is how many actually use the brakes for cornering versus using like 30% drag brakes and powering thru the corner?
Drag brakes can help, but can also kill cornerspeed not to mention ADD HEAT to your electronics. I believe its all comes down to driver preference and driving style. With a free setup (no drag brakes) you can brake while going straight coast into the corner and power out vs having the drag brakes on througout the turn until you apply throttle.
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:55 PM   #1604
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Originally Posted by FangsCPO View Post
Wow!!! That is awesome. I know we have 3 coming up from San Diego.
Jerry (RC Passion), Aaron (Sandiegobrotha) and Steve (FangsCPO).

It may be a fight between Jerry and Jai, it should be interesting.

Jai tell your son, I'm coming for him. He beat me last time, not going to happend this time.


OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!!! Sunday is gonna be a lot of fun! My cuz will also be racing GT8 with us. So Team Nitronic Losi powered GT8's will be out in force!

If you guys have MOD motors, bring em. We're running mod sedan! woohoo!!

I just told Jaiden you're gunning for him. We're watching your video of the last time out. lol. He said he's ready!

See you guys in a couple of days.
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:38 PM   #1605
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Originally Posted by kcunamay View Post
I would say no because with a center diff/motor brakes your single point of stopping power is the force from the motor-pinion-spur of diff and the available traction provided from your front and rear wheels.

With the dual brake setup, the amount of force applied front and rear is at that specific end of the diff housing. Bias is ubtained by tightening the collars on the cam.



Drag brakes can help, but can also kill cornerspeed not to mention ADD HEAT to your electronics. I believe its all comes down to driver preference and driving style. With a free setup (no drag brakes) you can brake while going straight coast into the corner and power out vs having the drag brakes on througout the turn until you apply throttle.
But yes the single point of stopping power is motor to spur, put if either the front or rear locks, the force is transferred to the other. In other words, there is NEVER lockup (unless I slam on the brakes) which means I have total steering into, mid and coming out of the corner. This was the key element that the "local pro's" were teaching me. Not saying one way is better than the other, but just trying to add another option.

"With a free setup...you can brake while going straight..." but that's the same as using the drag brake except you don't have to move the throttle to the brake end of travel and you can actually ride the power better during the curve cause your trottle finer is slightly on power instead of pushing forway on the brakes.
With the drag brakes on, the braking force causes the weight transfer to be placed on the front wheels (giving more steering grip) going into the turn, power is added to the point just before the back wheels spin out.
But then again, I could be totally lost and doing it all the wrong way. That's why I'm asking and discussing
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