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USIC USGT 2016 Motor and Chassis list

TQ A.F. TSR A800
2nd D.J. TeamPowers A800
3rd B.S. TSR A800
4th M.L. TSR A800
5th M.F TeamPowers A800
6th D.J TSR Destiny
7th J.W. Trinity Monster '17 Xray
8th C.V TSR Destiny
9 A.C. TSR A700
10 B.K. R1 v15 A700
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12
13 J.L. TSR A800
14 M.L. TSR Destiny
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16
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18 R.C. TSR T4
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20 S.J. TSR Destiny
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22 E.S. motiv T4
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25
26 P.D. TSR Destiny
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29
30 V.P. Reedy M3 serpent 3.0
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35 Y.B. Fantom A800
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38 R.C. TSR A800
39
40 W.S. Reedy
41
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43 Motiv xray
44
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46 Motiv Xray
47
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Old 09-26-2014, 09:08 PM   #3151
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Well at least 3 if not more of those cars are not any type of production car. And is the Honda HSV 010 a production car? Its def not here in the states. So if this pictoral is to represent the type of cars that should "realisticaly" be in the class, then almost any prototype car thats not an ALMS/wedge (1/12) style body should be accetable. Am I correct?

But I guess there are purist out there that want only production cars. That still leaves the McLaren, the Zonda, Corvette, and other bodies with that kind of shape.

My guess is most of the guys winning races could win with any body. They just happen to be good enough to take advantage of the bodies with a little better areo. My other guess is, the guys that keep asking what the fastest bodies are, are the ones that aren't winning races and arenlooking for exuses as to why.

I am curious though as to why in none of these list, the PF LFA doesnt come up. I ran one for a bit and it handled alot like my mazda 6 GX body. The shapeis also very similar to that of most TC bodies as well. Have people just not tried it out? Only reason I dont run it now is I am going with a theme to my next paint scheme and a lexus just doesnt fit.
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Old 09-26-2014, 10:14 PM   #3152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
So if this pictoral is to represent the type of cars that should "realisticaly" be in the class, then almost any prototype car thats not an ALMS/wedge (1/12) style body should be accetable. Am I correct?

I am curious though as to why in none of these list, the PF LFA doesnt come up. I ran one for a bit and it handled alot like my mazda 6 GX body. The shapeis also very similar to that of most TC bodies as well. Have people just not tried it out? Only reason I dont run it now is I am going with a theme to my next paint scheme and a lexus just doesnt fit.
That would be the correct way to look at it. That is how Rob and myself feel about the bodies.

The PF LFA has some issues its a larger body 200mm not much of a problem but because of its shape it does get alot of rear body tucks. I have seen them raced where the driver taps a corner and the rear fender gets sucked up into the tire and when another driver hits the back of the car it happens too. I personally think the body is ugly and doesnt look "scale" on any car that I have seen it on its just kinda meh. Much like the PF Camaro it needs to be about a half inch lower and it would be a really good body but its too tall and doesnt look good imo being that tall but it does handle just fine its more a looks thing to me.
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:48 AM   #3153
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I just tested the LFA body on a 36' x 86' Ozite indoor track because others appeared to like it and I like the looks.

I was also running a HPI C6 Vette shell. The LFA is about 1/2 inch taller and a few grams heavier than the Vette also 10mm wider. I had the larger lexan wing installed.

The LFA was really planted with lots more down-force than the Vette. It felt slower and was actually 2-3 tenths slower that the Vette. I also tried the small black plastic wing that comes with the body but the car was too loose with that wing. As mentioned rear body tucks were quite easy also.

I still like the looks and is now reserved for Slip-N-Slide fun.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:12 AM   #3154
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
I've noticed many guys don't take the time to (or even know that they can!) adjust the wing on the body they use. This is a very important tuning tool, yet some guys put on a body, notice that it makes the car too pushy or loose, then dump it for another body. When I ask if they tried to adjust it, they just give me a quizzical look.

Even a good body can be a turd if it's not adjusted properly.
This is an interesting point. I suggest that a local racer adjust his rear wing as he was struggling with a loose condition. He added a little angle to the wing and it made his car much more stable/predictable.

If you buy the black plastic HPI wings, they come with wedge shaped shims that allow you to adjust the rake/angle of the wing. Of course your can come up with DIY solutions for shimming the rear wing such as a bit of servo tape, scrap lexan, or thin washers.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:59 AM   #3155
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This is an interesting point. I suggest that a local racer adjust his rear wing as he was struggling with a loose condition. He added a little angle to the wing and it made his car much more stable/predictable.

If you buy the black plastic HPI wings, they come with wedge shaped shims that allow you to adjust the rake/angle of the wing. Of course your can come up with DIY solutions for shimming the rear wing such as a bit of servo tape, scrap lexan, or thin washers.
Yes, changing the wing angle is one option. Others are trimming the size of the wing, changing the mounting height, and moving the wing forward or aft (which is what I usually do).

When adjusting a new body, I'll leave the wing a bit oversized, and make several mounting hole locations for the wing. I start with the wing in the most forward position, and make chassis adjustments to get the handling dialed for LOW SPEED corners. Then I adjust the wing for high speed corners. If the car pushes at high speed, I trim the wing until it starts to get loose, then stop trimming and move the wing back one position. If the car is loose at high speed, I leave the wing the same size and move the wing back one position and try again. It only takes a few tries to get it right.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:23 AM   #3156
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I'm headed to a track that will not allow me to run my Mac Vette. I have three
Choices in my closet and could use some input...
1. Ferrari 458 (love the looks).
2. PF Camaro (Yep its tall)
3. Go buy the Hpi Vette

RBK I'm in doubt and broing out...

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Old 09-27-2014, 11:40 AM   #3157
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Verney I feel your pain. Ran my buddys one off body n got everything from.." hey that body needs to be available to the general public and it has to have 2000+ available".

Now that Mr.Proffesor got his answer on body rules I hope everybody can get in the same mind set as Mr.Robk n Mr.Kevin K & just drill some holes paint a body n shut up n race.


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Old 09-27-2014, 12:13 PM   #3158
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Oh I nver had a questionnon what was and wasnt allowed. Hell right now I'm working on a paint scheme for the HPI 2011 Mustang. I was just trying to clarify what the original poster of the pics was trying to say.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:17 PM   #3159
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Oh I nver had a questionnon what was and wasnt allowed. Hell right now I'm working on a paint scheme for the HPI 2011 Mustang. I was just trying to clarify what the original poster of the pics was trying to say.
Do they have a decent class of USGT at Bush River?
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:35 PM   #3160
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Do they have a decent class of USGT at Bush River?
Yes, absolutely. Usually 8-10 cars show up and they're all FAST.

Mark
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:25 PM   #3161
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Yes, absolutely. Usually 8-10 cars show up and they're all FAST.

Mark
Sweet, been trying to get down there. Just looking for a good weekend to go since yall race on Sundays.
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Old 10-04-2014, 10:16 PM   #3162
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Have a question, just got into USGT. t4 14, Orca VX speed control, blinky, Orca tx 21.5 (brand new). I started with max timing and geared at 46/92. Started out on the track and had to apply brake for a corner and the car would sorta cog (it would stop and i would pull the trigger 2 to 3 times before going again). I tried another sensor wire, that didn't work then I tried a lower timing back down to 10 degrees on the can and no change. If I don't apply brakes its fine but when I do it hesitates but its not consistent. Does anyone have some info about this?

I'm thinking maybe the sensor board is not good?!?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-04-2014, 11:50 PM   #3163
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Have a question, just got into USGT. t4 14, Orca VX speed control, blinky, Orca tx 21.5 (brand new). I started with max timing and geared at 46/92. Started out on the track and had to apply brake for a corner and the car would sorta cog (it would stop and i would pull the trigger 2 to 3 times before going again). I tried another sensor wire, that didn't work then I tried a lower timing back down to 10 degrees on the can and no change. If I don't apply brakes its fine but when I do it hesitates but its not consistent. Does anyone have some info about this?

I'm thinking maybe the sensor board is not good?!?

Thanks in advance.
You should go to the mfg section and ask Eric of EA Motorsports. He is the most informed person I know on orca products.I run the same setup you are using except I have a VXX. You are suppose to run the timing 2mm past the 20>mark. Do you have the punch setting on max on the ESC?
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:07 AM   #3164
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Originally Posted by tdu verney View Post
I'm headed to a track that will not allow me to run my Mac Vette. I have three
Choices in my closet and could use some input...
1. Ferrari 458 (love the looks).
2. PF Camaro (Yep its tall)
3. Go buy the Hpi Vette

RBK I'm in doubt and broing out...

You might want to try Mac's Jag as it works really well or the HPI BMW in 190 mm. I've been running the BMW and I really like it.

chuck
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:59 AM   #3165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
You should go to the mfg section and ask Eric of EA Motorsports. He is the most informed person I know on orca products.I run the same setup you are using except I have a VXX. You are suppose to run the timing 2mm past the 20>mark. Do you have the punch setting on max on the ESC?
Yes I have the punch setting at max and my timing was exactly at the 20 degree mark. I never went past it. I will try that, if not I will see what EA says.

Thanks for the reply
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