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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: USGT
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USIC USGT 2016 Motor and Chassis list

TQ A.F. TSR A800
2nd D.J. TeamPowers A800
3rd B.S. TSR A800
4th M.L. TSR A800
5th M.F TeamPowers A800
6th D.J TSR Destiny
7th J.W. Trinity Monster '17 Xray
8th C.V TSR Destiny
9 A.C. TSR A700
10 B.K. R1 v15 A700
11
12
13 J.L. TSR A800
14 M.L. TSR Destiny
15
16
17
18 R.C. TSR T4
19
20 S.J. TSR Destiny
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22 E.S. motiv T4
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24
25
26 P.D. TSR Destiny
27
28
29
30 V.P. Reedy M3 serpent 3.0
31
32
33
34
35 Y.B. Fantom A800
36
37
38 R.C. TSR A800
39
40 W.S. Reedy
41
42
43 Motiv xray
44
45
46 Motiv Xray
47
48
49
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:01 PM   #2956
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yeah... just looked at them.. different chassis and suspension setup

guess I probably should have said for the v2 with the in-board suspension
Most everyone I have seen runs the normal type shocks on the TA05. (Well at least the fast guys that I have seen run this car.) So unless you are running an IFS body, it will be easier/better in the long run for setup and for people to help you with the car with standard shock layout.
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:04 PM   #2957
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Most everyone I have seen runs the normal type shocks on the TA05. (Well at least the fast guys that I have seen run this car.) So unless you are running an IFS body, it will be easier/better in the long run for setup and for people to help you with the car with standard shock layout.
I understand what you're saying, but not what I wanted to hear
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:48 PM   #2958
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Im thinking of running USGT this year. How do I get the tires to fit flush on a 200mm body? What wheel and offset do I need.
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:02 PM   #2959
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Im thinking of running USGT this year. How do I get the tires to fit flush on a 200mm body? What wheel and offset do I need.
The offset you are looking for is 3mm to 6mm, depending on the chassis and body you want to run. Tamiya 24mm rims w/2mm offset may be your best bet, handling wise. HPI makes 26mm rims with more offset, but the Ride Spec tires do not work/handle as well when mounted on 26mm rims.
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:47 PM   #2960
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@Stro3579,
What chassis are you running? There are some tricks specific to particular chassis that we might be able to share.
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:51 PM   #2961
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I understand what you're saying, but not what I wanted to hear
The IFS is cool, but just not easy to adjust or get a setup for... If you are not great at car setup yourself (I am not) then just spend that $15-20 on the blue crack parts for a front shock tower.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:41 PM   #2962
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Originally Posted by Travis S View Post
Most everyone I have seen runs the normal type shocks on the TA05. (Well at least the fast guys that I have seen run this car.) So unless you are running an IFS body, it will be easier/better in the long run for setup and for people to help you with the car with standard shock layout.
Travis simply went for the Russian IFS upgrade. It is expensive, but effective.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:11 PM   #2963
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Ok im not knocking anyone with this statement, but what is the obsession with having the tires fit flush to the body. I tried it with my LFA body and found the handling horrible push on the front and loose on the rear. I couldnt get enough mechanical roll due to the track width being so wide. Went back to a narrower set - up and instantly found traction. It didnt look that different from the wide to narrow set-up. Especcially on the track, appearance wise you really couldnt tell at all.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:00 AM   #2964
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Ok im not knocking anyone with this statement, but what is the obsession with having the tires fit flush to the body. I tried it with my LFA body and found the handling horrible push on the front and loose on the rear. I couldnt get enough mechanical roll due to the track width being so wide. Went back to a narrower set - up and instantly found traction. It didnt look that different from the wide to narrow set-up. Especcially on the track, appearance wise you really couldnt tell at all.
I like to leave the car narrow with a 200mm body, to protect the front tires. It keeps the car from rolling over when I cut a corner too close. If the tire sticks out beyond the body when turning, it can "ride up" on a flapper, and the car goes full turtle. The wide body reduces the chances of this happening.

I don't leave the car narrow because I'm lazy (although I am, indeed, lazy); on my old XRay T1 chassis, I can adjust the width to anything I want with just the twist of a wrench. That's a great feature.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:45 AM   #2965
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@Stro3579,
What chassis are you running? There are some tricks specific to particular chassis that we might be able to share.
Yokomo bd7 2014
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:48 AM   #2966
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The offset you are looking for is 3mm to 6mm, depending on the chassis and body you want to run. Tamiya 24mm rims w/2mm offset may be your best bet, handling wise. HPI makes 26mm rims with more offset, but the Ride Spec tires do not work/handle as well when mounted on 26mm rims.
So don't run anything wider then a 2mm offset on a 24mm wheel? Correct?
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:13 AM   #2967
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Stro,
I have a TC4, so I can't help you with widening a Yokomo. With the Protoform Camaro being 197mm wide, you would only be 1.5mm short per side with 2mm offset wheels. I'll have to defer to others on handling changes with changing the track/width.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:37 AM   #2968
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So don't run anything wider then a 2mm offset on a 24mm wheel? Correct?
Correct.
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Old 08-02-2014, 02:32 PM   #2969
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I gotta question regarding FDR. My VTA car is running 3.3 and dialed for the track I run. I'm getting into USGT and was wondering if I should maintain a FDR of 3.3 or should I try 3.2/ 3.4? I'm running against RCGT cars with 17.5 VS. my 21.5 as final consideration. I'm basically just shooting for a start up FDR and will adjust for heat afterwards. The track is roughly 100x70. Thanks in advance 8 )
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Old 08-02-2014, 02:56 PM   #2970
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Personally I'd go out for practice and run as is and see if you can stay closeish to some of your competition then adjust down to 3.2 or maybe 3.0 Sadly with the difference in motor your never going to keep up down a straightaway no matter what your gearing if your track is tight and technical you may be able to keep decent pace but if your track is flowy your going to get left behind pretty quickly.
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