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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: USGT
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USIC USGT 2016 Motor and Chassis list

TQ A.F. TSR A800
2nd D.J. TeamPowers A800
3rd B.S. TSR A800
4th M.L. TSR A800
5th M.F TeamPowers A800
6th D.J TSR Destiny
7th J.W. Trinity Monster '17 Xray
8th C.V TSR Destiny
9 A.C. TSR A700
10 B.K. R1 v15 A700
11
12
13 J.L. TSR A800
14 M.L. TSR Destiny
15
16
17
18 R.C. TSR T4
19
20 S.J. TSR Destiny
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22 E.S. motiv T4
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24
25
26 P.D. TSR Destiny
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28
29
30 V.P. Reedy M3 serpent 3.0
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32
33
34
35 Y.B. Fantom A800
36
37
38 R.C. TSR A800
39
40 W.S. Reedy
41
42
43 Motiv xray
44
45
46 Motiv Xray
47
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:09 AM   #2131
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you should be able to get serrated 8-32 nuts at the hardware store
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:05 PM   #2132
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If you have a vice available, you can squeeze aluminum nuts to serve as locknuts. It takes a couple of tries, and you'll probably ruin a few, but once you get the hang of it it works fine. I do this on old nylock nuts when the nylon locking portion no longer grips well. How's that for cheap?

However, they do look like heck.
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:06 PM   #2133
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I got the Associated 2402 axles for Christmas and I ordered the 3mm offset axles from RaceVTA. I'm ordering the 2mm offset Tamiya wheels from TQRC Racing.
Thanks for all of the input, guys.

Scott
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:22 PM   #2134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
you should be able to get serrated 8-32 nuts at the hardware store
Or J-concepts sells them for like 14bucks a set....
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:28 PM   #2135
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My current USGT bodies. HPI NSX and HPI Ford GT. I have an FD Rx7 body I'm going to paint up as well but it will be more of a show peice with lights and mirrors etc.

I'm using the black wheels with the spec ride tires. The wheels have 0 offset so they look a bit narrow on the rear of both cars, but the front fit nicely. I'm using 6 mm hexes all the way around. My new R1 chassis has the ability to have slightly wider suspension mounts, but I'm not sure which suspension inserts I need to use to do it yet. This is the first car I've ever had with this suspension design and yesterday was its maiden run. Previously I was using an almost stock S1 car and swapping back and forth between Canadian vintage trans am and USGT. I decided to get a new dedicated chassis for Usgt.

Both of these bodies work extremely well. Very stable in the front end, pretty planted rear. Both offer excellent turn in. I feel that the NSX is a touch looser in the rear on cornering though. It's spoiler does have less "kick up" for lack of the proper term. I'll be trying get the car setup to run as good as possible with the NSX body and then I'll be using the GT body as the race body. This is because I feel the GT body doesn't show me where my setup weaknesses are. I figure if I get it setup really well with the NSX, when I use the GT I should have a superb handling car!

On a side note, if you're looking for super cheap bodies that are surprisingly decent quality for the price, try R2Hobbies.com. You can even get prepainted bodies for $7-$30!! and they look awesome!!

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Old 02-06-2014, 11:43 PM   #2136
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Hope someone can help me out on this.. got the Orca 21.5 for my USGT car, and noticed the timing was set at which seems to be 5..does the Orca all really come with a lot of timing?? My Boss VTA motor is maxed out at 45 n I was thinking about maxing out the Orca but do the two lines after the 10 mark = 20 max timing or am I reading this wrong.

thanks everyone for your time
☆frankie p☆

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Old 02-06-2014, 11:47 PM   #2137
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Originally Posted by Mr.75MHz View Post
Hope someone can help me out on this.. got the Orca 21.5 for my USGT car, and noticed the timing was set at which seems to be 5..does the Orca all really come with a lot of timing?? My Boss VTA motor is maxed out at 45 n I was thinking about maxing out the Orca but do the two lines after the 10 mark = 20 max timing or am I reading this wrong.

thanks everyone for your time
☆frankie p☆
It is not 20deg. You can ask EA in the ORCA thread, but I was told run it about 2mm past the + mark. (I thought I heard that was around 50-55deg.) It is a great motor and I have had no issues running it this way.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:50 PM   #2138
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Thanks Kevin for the info.. going to crank the timing up later tonite.

☆frankie p☆
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:19 PM   #2139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
you should be able to get serrated 8-32 nuts at the hardware store
Check out McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much everything you would need in both standard and metric.

chuck
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:24 PM   #2140
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Thanks, Mackin. I've heard of them, but not particularly familiar. I'll look them up.

Scott
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:08 PM   #2141
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RobK and Kevin,

I have a body question for you. We had a situation this weekend where a guy was running a WGT body (I don't recall if it was a Sophia or a Gianna) on his WGT car. Since it wasn't on the ROAR T2 list, we figured it was ok. The one issue that folks were split on is the fact that he'd cut holes in the hood for the front shocks.
Just wanted to get your input.

scott
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:23 PM   #2142
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I know of the car your talking about. I dont run the class, but its kinda 50/50 for me. The body is very similar to a corvette in shape, but having to hack a body like that just seems wrong. Then again, that kick ass mazda body has to be cut to fit several chassis, but its allowed and looks friggin sweet. It may just be one of those things that is allowed, but just a little off-pudding. Then again, as much as he had to hack up that body, is he really getting any aerodynamic advantage?
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:37 PM   #2143
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Quote:
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he'd cut holes in the hood for the front shocks.
That alone should make it illegal ... no extra holes allowed in body.

get a awesomatix or tamiya with lay down shocks
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:05 PM   #2144
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I'm just curious. If I could get away with it, I would consider running this!

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Old 02-10-2014, 04:08 PM   #2145
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Quote:
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I'm just curious. If I could get away with it, I would consider running this!

?????
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