Yokomo R12
#241
R12 shock leaks oil.
1.shock O-ring is slight small,
2. shock inner spacer hole is slight large,
solution.
1, I use tamiya air remover and shock oil.
Soak O-rings with shock oil in remover, and pump.
This dilate O-ring.
2, make a small hole with grue and drill (1.8mm) two spacer/1 shock.
1.shock O-ring is slight small,
2. shock inner spacer hole is slight large,
solution.
1, I use tamiya air remover and shock oil.
Soak O-rings with shock oil in remover, and pump.
This dilate O-ring.
2, make a small hole with grue and drill (1.8mm) two spacer/1 shock.
I'm guessing the O-ring cant handle the movement the spacers let the piston do. So having better spacers should solve the problem.
#242
The shock design would say maybe they leak rather than blow up...
As they have no holes in the piston where the oil can move between sections of the shock..
Next best thing would be to leak else would create pressure inside the sealed unit.
Every few races it passes the time rebuilding the shocks
Also means full aware of how much shock oil is in the shocks.
As they have no holes in the piston where the oil can move between sections of the shock..
Next best thing would be to leak else would create pressure inside the sealed unit.
Every few races it passes the time rebuilding the shocks
Also means full aware of how much shock oil is in the shocks.
#243
Tech Rookie
Front end
Does anybody have a front end they want to sell? or can somebody make a list of all the parts i need to purchase to have a complete extra front end. I do not want a 12th scale i would like to run this front end on my oval car. email is ok [email protected]
#245
I solved my leaking shock problem, ordered the rebuild set from the associated shocks. And as Landau said, the holes in the asso spacers are a lot smaller, these fit the piston quite nice.
On top of that I noticed not all O-rings were compressed!! I also added a small ring so the O-ring would be compressed a little bit.
Now all shocks seem to be leak free and smooth.
On top of that I noticed not all O-rings were compressed!! I also added a small ring so the O-ring would be compressed a little bit.
Now all shocks seem to be leak free and smooth.
#249
#250
How do most set their droop crews??
The std Yokomo setting gives a lot of spring preload and the front suspension just doesnt seem to work... I need a camber setting of about 3 degrees to make the tires wear ok. Car is also extremely twitchy in the first turn-in, but after that looses steering, the front just doesnt grip.
I'm guessing this is because the suspension is so hard from the preload, the chassis just rotates around the tire and doesnt go into the suspension.
I already tried running only the center spring, but this is a disaster!
Next I'm gonna try to drive the droop like I would any other front end. this means no preload and almost no droop.
I'm also gonna try driving "normal" tires, jaco's, so I know for sure it isnt a tire problem.
The std Yokomo setting gives a lot of spring preload and the front suspension just doesnt seem to work... I need a camber setting of about 3 degrees to make the tires wear ok. Car is also extremely twitchy in the first turn-in, but after that looses steering, the front just doesnt grip.
I'm guessing this is because the suspension is so hard from the preload, the chassis just rotates around the tire and doesnt go into the suspension.
I already tried running only the center spring, but this is a disaster!
Next I'm gonna try to drive the droop like I would any other front end. this means no preload and almost no droop.
I'm also gonna try driving "normal" tires, jaco's, so I know for sure it isnt a tire problem.
#251
How do most set their droop crews??
The std Yokomo setting gives a lot of spring preload and the front suspension just doesnt seem to work... I need a camber setting of about 3 degrees to make the tires wear ok. Car is also extremely twitchy in the first turn-in, but after that looses steering, the front just doesnt grip.
I'm guessing this is because the suspension is so hard from the preload, the chassis just rotates around the tire and doesnt go into the suspension.
I already tried running only the center spring, but this is a disaster!
Next I'm gonna try to drive the droop like I would any other front end. this means no preload and almost no droop.
I'm also gonna try driving "normal" tires, jaco's, so I know for sure it isnt a tire problem.
The std Yokomo setting gives a lot of spring preload and the front suspension just doesnt seem to work... I need a camber setting of about 3 degrees to make the tires wear ok. Car is also extremely twitchy in the first turn-in, but after that looses steering, the front just doesnt grip.
I'm guessing this is because the suspension is so hard from the preload, the chassis just rotates around the tire and doesnt go into the suspension.
I already tried running only the center spring, but this is a disaster!
Next I'm gonna try to drive the droop like I would any other front end. this means no preload and almost no droop.
I'm also gonna try driving "normal" tires, jaco's, so I know for sure it isnt a tire problem.
Will be very interested to hear your finding on jaco's
Was planning on running crc as my test might order some this week
Been playing with droop and the setups u can find on the internet have 8mm droop or 7mm
These work fine when.running 3.4mm ride height not 5mm which would need on outdoor tracks
2.5 or 3.0 is normal camber from again the setups on the internet
Even the rc12 5 and 5.1 they used 3 degrees
#252
Tech Regular
Will be very interested to hear your finding on jaco's
Was planning on running crc as my test might order some this week
Been playing with droop and the setups u can find on the internet have 8mm droop or 7mm
These work fine when.running 3.4mm ride height not 5mm which would need on outdoor tracks
2.5 or 3.0 is normal camber from again the setups on the internet
Even the rc12 5 and 5.1 they used 3 degrees
Was planning on running crc as my test might order some this week
Been playing with droop and the setups u can find on the internet have 8mm droop or 7mm
These work fine when.running 3.4mm ride height not 5mm which would need on outdoor tracks
2.5 or 3.0 is normal camber from again the setups on the internet
Even the rc12 5 and 5.1 they used 3 degrees
HMMMMM.....3 Degrees of Camber is not normal on carpet. For stock .25 to
.50 is normal but rarely no more than 1 degree. For Mod i hear guys running 2 degrees. I would look for a bent kingpin or something else...
Steve
#253
Here are some of the setups which was talking about, maybe it is the track but the setups for the most where all outdoors.
Some are from last year and not even R12's setup but shows in Japan 2+ caster is very popular
http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/downlo...oto_rc12r5.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ay20091122.pdf
Setup from IIC for 17.5 RC12 5.1 on carpet still 1.5 caster
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...17.5200909.pdf
This setup is for a R12 from a Team driver and he uses 3 degree
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...ki20100828.pdf
#254
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Steve,
Here are some of the setups which was talking about, maybe it is the track but the setups for the most where all outdoors.
Some are from last year and not even R12's setup but shows in Japan 2+ caster is very popular
http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/downlo...oto_rc12r5.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ay20091122.pdf
Setup from IIC for 17.5 RC12 5.1 on carpet still 1.5 caster
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...17.5200909.pdf
This setup is for a R12 from a Team driver and he uses 3 degree
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...ki20100828.pdf
Here are some of the setups which was talking about, maybe it is the track but the setups for the most where all outdoors.
Some are from last year and not even R12's setup but shows in Japan 2+ caster is very popular
http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/downlo...oto_rc12r5.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ay20091122.pdf
Setup from IIC for 17.5 RC12 5.1 on carpet still 1.5 caster
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...17.5200909.pdf
This setup is for a R12 from a Team driver and he uses 3 degree
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/yoko...ki20100828.pdf
#255
I've now set the droop to the 7mm, measured as per setup sheet, and the front feels a lot better when pushing it down.
Hopefully I can test some more this weekend.
I've had some time yesterday so I made the following adjustments:
- Droop -> 7mm
- Center shock: still not very oil tight, replaced by hotbodies.
- same prob (but not that bad) on the side shock, replaced by a CEFX dampertube (still the best to have in the rear, but thats my opinion).
- Rear axle for std rims
When this works well, I'll try going back to the std setup one at a time.
These are all components that I trust that will do a good job.
Last edited by Quante; 10-05-2010 at 03:44 AM. Reason: typo